Drafting and Cutting Procedures of a Ladies Nightgown
R.S. Balakumar
Associate Professor
Dept of Fashion Design & Arts
Hindustan University, Chennai, India
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com
Night Gown:
A nightgown (this is also called a nightdress) is a loosely hanging item of nightwear for ladies. Now-a-days the term is almost exclusively applied to women’s nightwear. A nightgown is mostly made from poplin (cotton,) silk, (original) satin, polyester, synthetic, or nylon. It may be decorated with lace appliques or embroidery at the front portion, back neck portion and bottom hem portion. Drafting details of a ladies nightgown is described in this article.
A nightgown may have any neckline, and may have sleeves of any type, or may be sleeveless, and any shoulder strap or back style. The length of a nightgown may vary from hip-length (baby doll) to floor-length (negligee) but is typically knee-length. A short nightgown is often called a nightie. A slip nightgown may be used as a nightgown or as a full slip. A sortie nightgown is a functional short nightgown (often just a long or short T-shirt).
Other names of nightgown:
- Night dress
- Nighties
- Night wear
- Bedroom dress
- Ladies Wear
- Sleep wear,
- Home dress
Nighties types:
- Shoulder Cut Nighty
- Cap Sleeves Nighty
- Full Length Nighty
- Full Length Nighty with Kaftan Sleeves
Drafting Process of a Ladies Nightgown
Measurements:
Full length 117cm. Natural waist length 39cm shoulder width 36cm. Bust 91cm sleeve length 23cm.
Pattern parts:
Front, back, sleeves.
Materials Suitable:
Poplin, cotton, synthetic, polyester, silk, satin, voile, crape.
Materials Required:
(Fabric) 3.50 metre (Fabric width 44” to 48”)
Drafting details of front part:
1 -0 =118cm Full length +1cm
2 -0 = N.W. Length+ 1cm
3 -0 = 1/4th Bust (-) 2.5cm
4 -3 = 1/4th Bust + 5cm
5 -2 = 4 to 3 Measure (-) 2cm
6 -1 = 4 to 3 Measure +8cm
7 -6 = 1.5cm Upward
8 -0 = ½ shoulder+1.2cm.
8-9 = Square down as per draft.
10 -8 = Shoulder drop 2.5cm.
9 -A = 2.5cm Shape the front armhole from 10-A-4.
11 -0 = 1/12 Bust
12 -0 = 1/12Bust+1.5cm as per desired shape of neck style.
Line B-C = 2.5cm away from 1 to 0 of Button line front facing width is 6cm
Back part:
13 -0 = 2.5cm back neck down as per draft.
14 -0 = 1/12th Bust + 1cm.
15 -14 = 2cm Upward.
16-10 = 2cm upward shape back arm whole join 13-15- 16-4.
7 -D = side vent 1/3rd or the length from 5 to 7.4cm per bottom folding
Sleeves parts:
1 -0 = Sleeve length +1.5cm
2 -0 = 1/8th Bust (-) 1cm
3 -2 = 1/4th Bust Measure.
4 -1 = 2 to 0 Measure (-) 2.5cm.
A is the centre of 3 and 0.
B -A = 2cm up join 3-B-0 and 3-0 as shown [Back and front armhole]
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