Drafting Procedures of Short Tops

Last Updated on 03/01/2021

Drafting Procedures of Short Tops

R.S. Balakumar
Associate Professor,
Dept of Fashion Design & Arts,
Hindustan University, Chennai, India
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com

 

Short Tops
Ladies blouse or Short tops is used to wear the teenaged girls. Now a day this garment is considered to be wear as the festival collection and celebrity fashion wear.

The style feature of this garment is either having the front side full open or the back open with button and button hole fastening or sometimes to add the value added garment zipper fasteners are also the used. Drafting of short tops is comparatively easy from other garments.

short tops
Fig: Short tops

Suitable Fabrics:
Crepe silk, satin with medium weights, Brocade Satin with medium weight, Brocade Silk, Polyester, Spun polyester.

Fabrics Required:
1.80 meter. Cloth width 42”. If the cloth width is 36” the consumption or fabric is to be required as 2 meter.

Patterns Parts:
Front, Back, Sleeves.

Measurements Required:
Full length 20”, N.W. length 16”, shoulder width 14”, Mid Bust 36”, Waist 30”, Hip 38”, Sleeve length from the Nape 15”, Neck 14”, Sleeve girth = 14 ½”.

Drafting Details of Short Tops:

drafting of short tops
Fig: Drafting of short tops

Back Part:

A – 1 = Arm depth is bust 16 + ½”.

A – 2 = N. W. length + ½”.

A – 3. Full length + ½”.

4 – A = 1/5th Neck girth + ¼”.

5 – A = ½ Shoulder width + ½”.

5 – 6 = Draw a line.

7 – 5 = ¾” shoulder’s Slope.

8 – 1 = 1/4th Bust + 1“.

2 – 9 = 1/4th waist + 1”.

10 –3 = Same as 8 to 1.

11 is the middle of 10 to 3 measure for Back dart construction. B is the dart in take of ¾” of each dart for waist Suppression. Allow side inlays and bottom hem marginal portion 1 ¼” extra.

Front Part:

A – 1 = 1/6th Bust + ½” (arm depth)

A – 2 = N. W. length + ½”.

3 – A = Full length + ½”.

4 – A = 1/5th Neck girth + ¼”.

5 – A = ½ Shoulder width + ½” for seam.

5 – 7 = ¾” Slope.

8 – 1 = 1 /4th Bust + 1”.

9 – 2 = 1/4th Waist + 1”.

10 – 3 = Save as 1 to 8 Measure.

11 is middle of 3 to 10 for Front dart and B is the dart intake ¾” for each dart for waist suppression. Allow side inlays 1“as per draft. Draw the Arm hole Curve 7 to 8 as per slightly inward Curve position to give best fit to the wearer.

A – 12 = A to 4 + 1 ½’’Front Neck down or as per desired 13 – 4 – 12 is the Front Neck shape as per draft.

Sleeve part:

A – 1 = 1/4th Bust (-) ¾”.

3 – 1 = 1/6th Bust + 1“.

2 – 1 = 1/6th Bust + 1”.

4 – A = Sleeve length + ½”.

5 – 4 = ½ Sleeve girth.

4 – 6 = ½ sleeve girth.

7 is the middle of 2 to A.

8 – 7 = ¾” upward and A, 8, 2 is back arm portion.

9 is the middle of 3 to A portion. 3, 9, A is the Front arm portion. Allow Sleeve side portion and sleeve bottom hem line extra inlays 1” and hem 1 ½“ as per draft.

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