Women’s Shirt Drafting Procedure

Last Updated on 03/01/2021

Drafting Procedure of Women’s Shirt

R.S. Balakumar
Associate Professor
Dept of Fashion Design & Arts
Hindustan University, Chennai, India
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com

 

Women’s Shirt
This is an upper for torso wear, used to wear by the girls and women. The feature of the shirt is having continues front open with button fastening. Either Short Sleeve or Long Sleeve is to be constructed. Normally one right Side chest pocket or two side chest pockets are required. Drafting of women’s shirt is not easy like a-line frock drafting. In this article I will explain how to drafting women’s shirt step by step.

women's shirt
Fig: Women’s shirt

Suitable fabrics:
Cotton 100%, Cambric, Poplin, Denim [medium weight] Seer sucker, Polyester, Poly-crepe, Silk and Satin.

Material required:
2. 25 meter cloth width 36”, 1.90 meter cloth width 42” to 44” and 1.60 meter cloth width 60”.

Pattern parts:
Front cut 2. Back Cut 1. Sleeves cut 2. Cuffs cut 4. Yoke cut 2. Sleeve placket cut 4.

Measurements required:
Full length 28”, Shoulder width 17”, N. W. length 16 ½”, Mid Bust 36”, Waist 30”, Hip 38”, Neck 14, short Sleeve length 10”, Long sleeve length 23”, Cult 2 ½ x 11”, Pocket Size 4 ¾“ x 5 ¼ .

Women’s Shirt Drafting Procedure:

Women's Shirt Drafting
Fig: Women’s Shirt Drafting Details

Front part

1 – 0 = Full length + 1 ¼“ for bottom hem + Seam.

2 – 0 = Armhole depth is Bust ¼ (-) 1 ¼”.

3 – 0 = N. W. length + ½”.

4 – 2 = Bust 1/4 + 1 ½”.

5 – 3 = Same as 4 to 2 (-) ¾”.

6 – 1 = Same as 4 to 2 + ¾”.

7 – 0 = ½ shoulder width + ½” for seam.

8 – 0 = 1/5th Neck + ¼”.

9 – 0 = 1/5th Neck shape neck part 9 to 8 as per draft.

10 – 8 = 1/5th Neck.

11 – 7 = shoulder’s slope 1 ½”.

A to B ¾” upward at lower arm hole curve portion. C = is the centre of 3 to 5 measure. Dart length 8”. Dart in take is ½” as per draft making this waist dart in front and back portion of the shirt will give the proper fitness in the waist portion of the shirt. 9 to 9A are the button standing line is ¾”. 9B to 9A is the parallel line to the drawn.

Back part:

1 – 0 = Back part starting line.

12 – 0 = 1/5th Neck + ¼”.

12 – 13 = upward 2 ¼”.

14 – 11 is down ward 2 ¼ ”.

14 to 15 is the back armhole curve.

Short Sleeves:

1 – 0 = Short sleeve length + ½”.

2 – 0 = 1/8th Bust ( – ) ½”.

3 – 2 = 1/4th Bust + ½”.

4 – 1 = 3 to 2 measure ( – ) 1”.

3 – 6 – 0 = Back Sleeve Shape.

3 – 5 – 0 is the front sleeve shape.

Collar (Open collar type):

1 – 0 = 3 ¼” as standard.

1 -2 = ½ Neck girth + ¼”.

3 – 2 = Same as 1 to 0 measure.

4 -2 = ¾ for shape.

3 -5 = ½ upward.

6 – 3 is ½” outer point as per the draft.

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