Drafting Process of Single Pleated Trousers
R.S. Balakumar
Associate Professor
Dept of Fashion Design & Arts
Hindustan University, Chennai, India
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com
What is Single Pleated Trousers / Pants?
Single pleated pants or trousers belong to men’s wear collection, suitable to wear as formal and official wear. This menswear fashions was most popular in the ‘80s and ‘90s. Though many people like still now for its comfortness. Due to front pleat construction gives more comfort to the fore part of the wearer. Side pockets are to be constructed and one hip pocket, front waist watch pockets are to be required. Drafting process of single pleated trousers are discussed in this article.
Measurements required:
- Side length = 40”.
- Body rise = 10” [with waist band 1 ½”
- Waist = 30”
- Seat = 36”
- Bottom = 16”
- Working scale = 18”.
Suitable materials:
Cotton 100%, terene, terry cotton, poly-viscose cotton, terry wool, polyester and so on.
Fabric required: 1.30 mtr cloth width 54”to 60”
Drafting Procedures of Single Pleated Trousers or Pants:
Front part:
1-2 = 1 1/2”
3-4 = hem 1 1/2”
5-1 = body rise 10+1/2” for seam .
5-6 = 1/6th working scale .
7 is the middle of 3 to 5 measure.
7-8 = 2” upward [knee line].
9-6 = pleat ease 1 ½”
10-9 = seat/4.
10-11 = 12= draw a line.
13-12 = 1/8th working scale.
14 is the middle of 5 to 13 measures.
15-14-16 draws a line [crease line].
18-16 = 1/4th bottom.
19-16 = 1/4th bottom.
24-17 = 1/4th bottom + 3/4”.
25-17 = 1/4th bottom+3/4”.
26-12 = 11/4” at 45 degree..
27-11 = 1/4th waist+2 ¼”[pleat and seam]
27-28 = 1 ½”.
29-28 = 6 ¼” side pocket open.
20-21 = 1/2”.
22-23 = 1/2”.
Back part:
13-30 = ½” down
31-30=1/8th working – scale.
32-24=1”.
33-18=1”.
34-11=1 ½”.
35-34=1 ½” Upward .
35-36=1/4th waist+2”.
37-36=3 ½”.for dart location.
37-39=2 ½” for second dart location.
38-37=3 ¼” down and
38 to 48 hip pocket width 4 ½”.
41-42=1/4th hip+1 ¼” allow inlays on inseam,[1”] out seam [1”] waist top portion [1/2”] accordingly.
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