Some Important Factors in Modern Tailoring
Amit Kumar Das
Pabna Textile engineering college, Pabna, Bangladesh
Email: amitptec6th@gmail.com
Tailoring is a process of manual garment making. In the tailoring process, an initially flat fabric is converted into a three-dimensional (3D) garment. A tailor is a person who makes, repairs, or alters clothing professionally, especially suits and men’s clothing.
Generally when garments manufacturers prepare to make model for any particular apparel, they try to make them beautiful as well as comfortable. Because an apparel goes to the top of selling when it contains both of two qualities. The attractiveness of any apparel depends on design where comfortable properties depends on the ability of fabric’s to give space for body’s dynamic movement. So in making comfortable stylish dress it’s necessary to explore all the dynamic movement of body. In some related study shows three essential components of garments involved in meeting the skin requirements. They are garment fit, garment slip and fabric stretch.
Garments fit is affected by the ratio of garment size to body size and the design’s nature also. For loose fitting dress body skin can strain but in tide fitting dress creates uncomfortable felling.
Garment slip, which depends on frictional coefficient between skin and fabric’s and different layers of fabric.
Next factor is fabric stretch; fabric stretch controls body pressure is largely dependent of fabric’s elastic character and elastic recovery properties.
If fabric has low resistance to stretch and high friction against the skin and other fabric then it tends to stretch rather than slip.
Making complex design for acting and modelling those factors are very important to follow. Otherwise in modern tailoring dress are made in such a way that two persons of fat and thin looks same. Fat person looks slim for slim fitting dress.
Adjusting garment fitting, garment slip and fabric stretch some areas of human body are identified which are the knee, the back and the elbow.
The measurements of skin strain at those identified areas are given in the table bellows.
| Body Element | Body Movement | Local Skin Strain% | |||
| Horizontal | Vertical | ||||
| Knee | Men | Women | Men | Women | |
| Elbow | Stand-sit | 21% | 19% | 41% | 43% |
| Back | Straight full bend | 24% | 25% | 50% | 51% |
| Straight Forward Raised Arm | 33% | 31% | |||
| Straight Elbow on table | 28% | 28% | |||
| Straight Elbow bending | 16% | 16% | |||
| Straight-Shoe trying | 47% | 47% | |||
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Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. He is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.
