Drafting Process of Gharara Dress for Girls

Drafting Process of Gharara Dress for Girls

R.S. Balakumar
Associate Professor
Dept of Fashion Design & Arts
Hindustan University, Chennai, India
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com


Gharara Dress for Girls:
A gharara is an old-fashioned lower torso wear of Lucknowi outfit, customarily worn by women and girls of the Indian subcontinent. Particularly Hindi Belt of modern-day India. This dress consists of a kurti (a short, mid-thigh length tunic of the upper torso with a dupatta (veil), and most importantly, a pair of wide-legged pants, gathered at the knee so they flare out vividly known as Gharara.

gharara dress
Fig: Gharara dress

The knee area, called the gota in Urdu, is often elaborately embroidered in zari and zardozi work. Gharara dress is not so fitted as shararah suit but this dress comfortably a looseness starting from the knee and wider at the bottom portion. Each leg of a traditional gharara is made from over 12 meters of fabric, often silk brocade in olden days but now due to fashion trend and cost reduction 6 to 8 meters of fabric is required to make this dress.

As a matter of gharara, it is created in Awadh region of Uttar Pradesh during the era of the Nawabs. Throughout the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the dress gharara was part of the ordinary outfit among Muslim women of the Hindi Belt. Ghararas were also made popular in Pakistan and Bangladesh, in the 1950s and 1960s.

Even though they are no longer worn as an everyday garment, they remain standard as marriage clothing among Muslim women of the Hindi Belt and also among Urdu-speaking immigrants in Pakistan and Bangladesh.

More comfort, ease, attractiveness and elegant look in modern days all age grouped women are wearing this dress as the fashionable attire with Polyester, Nylon, Synthetic, Voile-cotton, Linen fabrics of affordable cost effectiveness. But, brocade silk, zardosi embroidered saree material also be used as the celebration, festival wedding collection.

In recent times vivaha silk saree is the latest fashion trending in recent time and the saree cost rupees forty lakhs and above as a special customer based order used as gharara dress set of the present generation.

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Fashion Sensations affords Georgette Kurti with hand embroidered zardosi work gharara and matching dupatta with four sided lace is the latest fashion trending. Gharara can be wearing for purposes, festivals, parties and even marriage celebrations. Attraction in the event once teens are wearing it. Mix and match ethnic jewellery such as bangles, bracelets and earrings to go along with gararah set will be enhanced the esthetic appealing. This combination can be worn for festive as well as occasions.

Drafting Procedures of Gharara Dress

Measurements Required:

  1. Side seam = 40”
  2. Waist girth = 30”
  3. Seat girth = 38”
  4. Knee girth = 24”
  5. Bottom girth = 36”
  6. Thigh girth = 29”
  7. Working scale = 19” (1/2 seat is the working scale.)

Front Part Drafting Process of Gharara Dress:

1-2 = 2” waist band width.

2-3 = side length + 1/2”

3-4 = 1 ½” bottom hem.

5-1 = body rise is seat/4+2” (medium waist level)

6 is the midpoint of 3 to 5 measure.

6-6A-2 ½” as per draft.

7-5 = 1/6th working scale.

8-7 = 1 ½”as per draft.

9-7 = seat/4 is noted.

10-9 = draw a line.

10-11 = 1/2” as per draft.

11-12 = 1/4th waist+1”.

13-14 = 1/6th working scale.

15-13 = 3/4” as shown in the draft.

16 is the mid-point of 14 to 5 measure.

15-3 = same as 16 to 5.

16-15-16A is the crease line.

17-13-19 = draw as shown in this draft.

17-15 = 1/4th bottom.

18-15= 1/4th bottom.

17-13-19 = as per draft.

19-16A = knee portion.

16A-20 = same as 19 to 16A.

Drafting of gharara dress
Fig: Drafting of gharara dress

Back Part Drafting of Gharara Dress:

17-21-1” is noted.

19-21 = 1” is noted.

23-14 = 3/4” as per draft.

24-23 = 1/6th working scale.

25-11 = 2” as per draft.

26-11 = 2” as per draft.

26-25 = 2” as per draft.

26-27 = 1/4th waist+2”

29-28 = 1/4th seat+2” (cross check measure)

D1-27 = 3 ½” dart distance, dart intake is ¾”each. Length is 3 ½”.

D2-D1 = same as D1-27 measure is to be noted.

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