Sewing Operation in Garment Industry
Tareq Salman
Dept. of Textile Engineering
Mawlana Bhashani Science and Technology University
Tangail, Bangladesh
Email: tareqsalman27@gmail.com
Sewing Operation:
Sewing is the most important operation in the process of garments making or other similar product. Sewing means joining of different parts of garments with the use of needle and thread. Without needle and thread, we can also make garments by using alternative methods of joining like adhesive, welding etc. Generally there are two things involved in sewing process, i. e. stitches and seams. Sewing is the most important among all the processes of garments joining. The main purpose of sewing is to produce seam.
The joining process “sewing” can be characterized on the basis of information about the sewing thread, the textile fabric, and the construction of the connection (thread/laying of textile fabric). A connection by sewing occurs by the linking or chaining of one or more sewing threads with the textile fabric. The manner, position, and number of linking or interlacing points in the textile fabric describe the joint produced.
Sewing can be defined as the craft of fastening or attaching objects using stitches made with a needle and thread. It is a term used to describe the process used in factories to mass-produce a wide range of garments and other goods that are created by joining different components together along the course of a structured process. Sewing is done by putting parts together and joining into a whole garment. The basic sewing parameters include:
- Stitches,
- Seams,
- A method of sewing.
Flow Chart of Sewing Operation in Garment Industry:
At first PPM (Pre-Production Meeting) complete by all concerned persons
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Input schedule collect from planning department (through E-mail)
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Sample collects from Quality department
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Layout sheet collect from IE department
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Layout sheet provide to Mechanic, Technical and Supervisor
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Input collect from Supermarket through Kanban box
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Thread and other accessories collect from store
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M/C arrange, setting or adjust by Mechanic and Supervisor
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Sewing start and layout completed
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First output initial check
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Process wise quality ensure by line quality inspector through Traffic Light System
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End line quality inspection done by Table quality inspector
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QC Pass / QC Fail
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If QC Pass then goods receive by Receive man OR If QC Fail then again Sewing start and layout completed
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Goods send to snap button section (if needed)
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Goods send to Finishing section
Sewing Machine Types:
1. Plain machine: Top stitch, Label attaching
2. Over lock machine: Sleeve joining, Side seam joining, Shoulder joining
3. Flat lock machine:
- Cylinder bed: All types of top stitch
- Flat-bed: Folding and Piping
- Compressor: Bottom hem and Sleeve hem
- Feed of the arm: Back tap and Arm tap
4. Kansai machine: Placket, Waist band
5. Button hole machine: Button holing and stitching it
6. Button attaching machine: Button attaching
7. Snap button machine: Snap button attaching
8. Chain stitch machine: Waist band
Seam:
Seam is a line where two pieces of fabric are sewn together in a garment or other articles. A seam is basically a line of stitching. Seams are stitched on the seam line. The seam allowance is the distance between the seam line and the cut edge. The standard seam allowance is (1.5 cm) wide.
Properties of seam:
- Seam strength
- Elasticity
- Durability
- Security
- Comfort
- Special properties:
- Water proof
- Fire proof
Types of seam:
There are eight types of seam. They are-
- Class-1: Superimposed seam
- Class-2: Lapped seam
- Class-3: Bound seam
- Class-4: Flat seam
- Class-5: Decorative seam
- Class-6: Edge neatening
- Class-7
- Class-8
You may also like: Types of Seam Classes Used in Garment Industries
Stitch:
Loop or loops of one or more threads when bounds with each other, either by interlacing, interloping, interloping or combination of those when sewing fabric, each unit of such configuration is called stitch.
Types of stitch:
There are available of 70 types of stitches. But from 18 to 20 types of stitch are used in textile industry.
All stitches are included in six classes:
- Stitch class-100
- Stitch class-200
- Stitch class-300
- Stitch class-400
- Stitch class-500
- Stitch class-600
You may also like: Different Types of Stitches and Their Uses in Garments
Thread Consumption Formulae for Different Stitch Types:
1. Stitch Type-101 (Single thread chain stitch)
C = ( 3N + 2T ) × S
2. Stitch Type-301 (Single thread lock stitch)
C = ( 2N + 2T ) × S
3. Stitch Type-401 (Single needle chain stitch)
C = ( 4N + 2T ) × S
4. Stitch Type-504 (Three thread over edge stitch)
C = ( 3N + 4W + 4T ) × S
Here,
C = Thread Consumption
N = Stitch Length
T = Thickness
S = Stitch per Inch (SPI)
Sewing Faults, Causes and Remedy:
Table: Sewing Faults, Causes and Remedy
SN | Sewing Faults | Causes | Remedy |
01 | Needle thread breakage | Misaligned off winding from thread package; excessive tension, poor quality thread | Ensure that the overhead guide is above cop stand pin; use a stronger thread |
02 | Bobbin or looper thread breakage | Badly wound thread on the bobbin | Adjust bobbin winder alignment |
03 | Tread fusing when machine stop | Poorly finished or incorrect thread | Use better quality thread |
04 | Skipped stitches | Hook, looper or needle failing to enter thread loops at the correct time | Changes machine clearance and timings |
05 | Imbalance stitching | In correct sewing tension | Check for snarling, adjust thread tensions |
06 | Variable stitch density | Poor fabric feed control | Increase the pressure feet pressure |
07 | Seam pucker | Variable different fabric feed | Improve the fabric feed mechanism |
You may also like:
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- Operation of Sewing Section | Process Breakdown of Basic Shirt
- Sewing Thread Consumption Formula with Example for Garments
- Yarn Count Numbering System and Conversions
- Parameters of Sewing Thread and Embroidery Thread
- Consumption Calculation of Fabric, Garment Trimmings and Accessories
- Latest Technology in Garments Sewing Field
Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. He is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.