Different Types and Classification of Stitches
Noor Ahmed Raaz
Faculty Member, Dept. of Textile Engineering,
Atish Dipankar University of Science & Technology
Types of stitches:
Every category of sewing machine produces a specific type of stitch depending on the number of needles, loppers and threads which combine to construct the stitch. Each of these configurations is known as stitch types and they are classified according to their main characteristics. There are about seventy (70) types of stitches can be seen in common practice but among them 18 to 20 types of stitches are used in garments manufacturing industries. In tailoring purposes there are only two to three types of stitches are used. All stitches are classed in six (6) groups which are identified by the first of the three digits:
Stitch types are given below:
Stitch class – 100 (Single thread chain stitch):
Stitches under this class are produced with single thread by inter-looping technique. All the stitches under this class are unsecured and used for temporary purposes. Starting and finishing end of the stitch under this class needs bar taking or back stitching to secure the stitches. Most common uses in blind stitching, hemming, button attaching, button holing, gathering, temporary positioning of garment components, etc. purposes.
Stitch class – 200 (Hand stitch):
Stitches under this class are also produced with single thread but by the use of special type of sewing machine. Stitch class – 200 can not be produced for longer length sewing. This class of stitches is used very rarely in the Ready Made Garments (RMG) sector as because they are very expensive to produce. They are used mainly for coat manufacturing. Stitch type – 209 is shown in diagram which is used in the lapel area.
Stitch class – 300 (Lock stitch):
Stitches under this class are produced by interlacing technique with two threads. The upper thread is called needle thread and the lower one is called bobbin thread. Stitch type – 301 is shown in diagram which is extensively used in domestic sewing machine, tailoring sewing machine, RMG sector sewing machine, for general sewing for attaching pocket, collar, cuff, etc components. Stitches under this class are naturally secured and shows good frictional resistance property. Its extensibility is about 30%, hence used extensively in Ready Made Woven Garments products.
Stitch class – 400 (Multi thread chain stitch):
Stitch class – 400 is produced by interlacing and interloping technique. The upper thread is called the needle thread and the lower one is called looper thread. Stitch class – 400 is stronger than stitch class – 300, hence used for joining heavy fabrics, side seam of trouser, etc purposes.
Stitch class – 500 (Over edge stitch):
Stitches under this class are produced with one or a group of more threads (one needle thread and two or more looper thread) and at least threads of one group round the edge of the fabric stop fraying i.e. threads from the edge of the fabric can not come out. The knife of the machine cuts the edge first producing a clear edge for seaming. Stitch under this class is sometimes called over locking, but actually it is over edge stitch. Sometimes it is used for decorative purpose. Extensibility is quite well (may be 300%) and the width of the stitch is about 3 to 5 mm. Stitch class – 504 is shown in the figure below:
Stitch class – 600 (Covering chain stitch):
Stitches under this class are formed with at least three groups of threads and threads of two groups are seen in both side of the fabric. Threads of first group are called needle thread and threads of second group are called top cover threads and threads of third group are called bottom cover thread. This type of stitch is so complex and sometimes usage of 9 threads can be seen. This type of stitch is used for sewing underwear, for attaching lace, braid, elastic, etc. It is also used for making cover stitch, decorative stitch and top stitching. Stitch class – 602 and 606 are shown in figure below:
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