Different Types of T-shirts and Their Operation Sequence

Different Types of T-shirts and Their Operation Sequence

Yash Ajit Patil
Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Ltd. Banglore
Email: patilyash280@gmail.com


What is t-shirt basically?
A t-shirt is also called as or pronounced like tee shirt or tee short. The shirt which is made from fabric and the silhouette of the shirt is literally like our body shape and sleeve shape. Basically, this shape looks like the “T” So that generally it is called as the “t-shirt”. Basically, the t-shirt is made from the fabric generally called as knitted fabric. This knitted fabric may be single jersey or double jersey. In that rib or interlock fabrics are being used depending upon the requirements. Knitted fabrics are manufactured in tube form so this tube-like fabric is used as it is. So that there is no need for side seam. [1].

History of t-shirt:
The term t-shirt initiated as an inner wear. In America the labour cut their jumpsuits to survive in extreme heat conditions i.e. in summer heat from this time onwards itself t-shirt was born and this was the 19th Century. They were started manufacturing of t-shirt from 1898. Really the t-shirt made in 1913.[2]

Different types of t-shirts:
There are many types of t-shirts, each designed to suit different styles, occasions, and preferences. Here are some common types of t-shirts:

  1. Basic half sleeve t-shirt
  2. Long sleeve crew neck t-shirt
  3. Polo collar t-shirt
  4. V-neck t-shirt
  5. Yoke neck t-shirt
  6. Boyfriend t-shirt
  7. Douche bag neck t-shirt (Scoop neck)
  8. Henley collar t-shirt
  9. Baseball t-shirt
  10. Raglan sleeve t-shirt-long sleeve
  11. Turtle neck t-shirt
  12. Ringer t-shirt
  13. Cap sleeve t-shirt
  14. Half t-shirt
  15. Muscle shirt
  16. Half muscle t-shirt
  17. Longline t-shirt
  18. Pocket t-shirt
  19. Baby doll t-shirt

1. Basic half sleeve t-shirt:
This is one of the most simple and common basic style of the t-shirt. Mostly preferred by men’s and women’s. This is considered as most popular style of t-shirt. As a name suggest it is having half sleeve with crew neck. Mostly crew neck is made up of interlock fabric. This interlock is double jersey fabric. To give strength to the neck part it is being used. Because during wearing the t-shirt this neck will be expanded, and as it will expand it must have the strength otherwise it may tear. Same in case of sleeve hemming interlock fabric is being used. Here also to strengthen the sleeve hemming interlock fabric will be used. Not 100 % interlock will be used in some cases flatlock is being used. For side seam and shoulder joint overlock machine will be used. To stitch the label SNLS machine will be used. For bottom hemming again flatlock will be used.

Basic half sleeve T-shirt
Fig: Basic half sleeve T-shirt

2. Long sleeve crew neck t-shirt:
As a name suggest long sleeve crew neck t-shirt is having long sleeve with crew neck. This is preferred by men’s and women’s. Long sleeve t-shirt is ideal choice for winter wear. As the sleeve length is full and when it is worn by the wearer then it will create illusion like long hands or long sleeve. Either cotton or wool fabric will be used for this shirt. SMV will be higher because sleeve length is long. It will consume time. Also, fabric consumption will be on higher side. Here cuff may be of interlock fabric with 7.5 to 6 CM long. Otherwise normal single jersey fabric will be used. The machine’s used are single needle lock stitch, 3 thread overlock, 5 thread overlock, flatlock, etc.

Long sleeve crew neck T-shirt
Fig: Long sleeve crew neck T-shirt

3. Polo collar t-shirt:
The construction of the polo collar t-shirt is same like basic half sleeve collar t-shirt but the difference is in collar only. Here polo collar is given but rest sleeve and all things are remains constant. Also, it will have placket and that placket will contains 2 or 3 buttons as per the brand requirements. The collar used is of interlock fabric only. This shirt will have the placket so that one or two operations will be increased here so ultimately SMV also more. The machines used to manufacture this shirt are like SNLS, overlock, flatlock, buttonhole, button stitch, etc.

Polo collar t-shirt
Fig: Polo collar t-shirt

4. V-neck t-shirt:
V neck t-shirt is also called as football jersey. The neck shape is like ‘V’ so that the t-shirt is generally called is V-neck t-shirt. The front view will be the V-neck but the back view will be round only. In this ‘V’ neck t-shirt mostly for collar interlock is not preferred. Here the parent fabric will be folded and stitched for finishing, this will be the one way. And another one we can use interlock fabric for neck. Machines used are like SNLS, overlock, Flatlock, etc.

V-neck t-shirt
Fig: V-neck t-shirt

5. Yoke neck t-shirt:
This t-shirt will be having yoke part and embroidery will be there on this yoke.

yoke neck t-shirt
Fig: Yoke neck t-shirt

6. Boyfriend t-shirt:
Boyfriend t-shirt is same like basic t-shirt but some of measurements changes will be there.

Boyfriend t-shirt
Fig: Boyfriend t-shirt

7. Douche bag neck t-shirt (Scoop neck):
Scoop necks are similar to crew neck t-shirts, where the round neckline is bigger and hangs slightly below the collarbone. It shows more body than basic t t-shirt.

Scoop neck t-shirt
Fig: Scoop neck t-shirt

8. Henley collar t-shirt:
This shirt is having placket below the round neckline without collar. Rest all construction is same as basic style. Mostly rib fabric is used for this type of style. As it is having placket it will increase the SMV of this garment, because it is bit critical operation. The machines used like SNLS, 5 thread overlock, flatlock, buttonhole, button attach, etc.

Henley collar t-shirt
Fig: Henley collar t-shirt

9. Baseball t-shirt:
Baseball t-shirt is also called as Raglan sleeve (half sleeve) t-shirt. The uniform worn by the baseball player this is similar to that only. So that the name is given to this is baseball t-shirt. This type of t-shirt will consume more fabric, because sleeve design is different than other shirts. During pattern making and marker preparation for this style fabric will be wasted more. So as fabric wastages/consumption is on higher side the price is bot on higher side. In this style sleeve attaching is quite critical operation.

Baseball t-shirt
Fig: Baseball t-shirt

10. Raglan full sleeve t-shirt:
This t-shirt will be having ¾ sleeve or full sleeve. This is same is baseball t-shirt. But the main difference is the full sleeve. Rest construction is bit same. But this type of t-shirt will consume more fabric, because during the marker making the sleeve will be having the extreme curvy nature so that it will consume more fabric. Rest things are similar like baseball t-shirt except sleeve will be longer. And SMV is on bit higher side. The machine used are SNLS, overlock, flatlock, etc.

Raglan full sleeve t-shirt
Fig: Raglan full sleeve t-shirt

11. Turtle neck t-shirt:
This t-shirt is having extended neck, that neck is called as turtle neck t-shirt. Rest all construction remains same. Mostly for turtle neck t-shirt full sleeve is preferred. Neck fabric is used of interlock fabric. And neck attach operation is slight critical operation. Also, for cuffs and bottom hem interlock fabric is being used. The cost of this style shirt is more because interlock fabric itself is having 6 times more cost than single jersey fabric.

Turtle neck t-shirt
Fig: Turtle neck t-shirt

12. Ringer t-shirt:
This is a crew necked t-shirt with contrast bands on the neckline and sleeve hems. Construction details are like basic shirt l, just only neck and sleeve will be contrast to body fabric. This will give a different look to the shirt.

Ringer t-shirt
Fig: Ringer t-shirt

13. Cap sleeve t-shirt:
Cap sleeves are tiny in nature that simply extended on the shoulder. The length of sleeve will be short only. And it did not reach upto bicep itself. This is in both case i.e. in case of outer side and inner underarm side also. There are total 3 types of cap sleeve as shown in above fig. The machine’s required for this are like SNLS, overlock, flatlock and DNLS.

Cap sleeve t-shirt
Fig: Cap sleeve t-shirt

14. Half t-shirt:
This is typical sleeveless shirt with narrow straps. Usually used by runners. This is loose fitting and comfortable to wearers.

Half t-shirt
Fig: Half t-shirt

15. Muscle shirt:
As a name suggest this is the sleeveless t-shirt. Basically, this is used to show off the body muscle that’s why it’s called as muscle shirt. Muscle shirt is prepared by inserting inner pads to chest so that chest will be looked as bulged chest. Compared to half muscle t-shirt this t-shirt will consume extra fabric. And SMV will be bit more.

Muscle shirt
Fig: Muscle shirt

16. Half muscle t-shirt:
The design of the half muscle t-shirt is similar like muscle t-shirt only the difference is length is short, ending at above belly with bottom hem. This is to showcase the muscle on the stomach. This t-shirt will consume less fabric comparatively to the muscle t-shirt. The SMV of this t-shirt will be bit less than muscle t-shirt because length is less than that t-shirt.

17. Longline t-shirt:
Name itself says that this t-shirt is having longer length. This length is up toknee. Mainly to showcase the elongated torso this will be used. This is the fashion concept actually and mostly preferred by petite girls to showcase the illusion of long torso. This t-shirt also consumes more fabric as it is having long length. And SMV also quite more, because side seam length is increased.

Longline t-shirt
Fig: Longline t-shirt

18. Pocket t-shirt:
As a name suggest this t shirt will be having pocket. This will give a different look to that t-shirt. This is quite critical operation because when it comes to knitted fabric stitching puckering issues may occurs. As this is the most viewable part of this garment, so during manufacturing the care should be taken. And when it comes to strips fabric, there will be requirement of strips matching this will be also a challenge. In some cases, strips matching is not required.

Pocket t-shirt
Fig: Pocket t-shirt

19. Baby doll t-shirt:
Usually this is tight and short t-shirt. In this short and long both sleeves will be available. Most popularly used in 1990s. SMV of the garment is quite lesser than any other shirt. As it’s having shorter length.

Baby doll t-shirt
Fig: Baby doll t-shirt

Operation Breakdown of T-Shirt:

Sr. No.Operation NameMachine Used
1Moon panel attach with care labelSNLS
2Match front and backTable
3Shoulder join5 Thread Overlock
4Neck rib measure and cutScissor
5Neck rib tack with bodySNLS
6Neck rib joiningSNLS
7Neck top stitchSNLS
8Main label attachSNLS
9Sleeve hemFlatlock
10Sleeve and body matchSNLS
11Sleeve joining5 Thread Overlock
12Armhole top stitchDNLS
13Side seam5 Thread Overlock
14Sleeve close and open tack5 Thread Overlock
15Body hemFlatlock
16Final thread cutTrimmer and table
17Thread suckingThread Sucking Machine

Above table shows the operation breakdown of t-shirt. This is the OB for basic style and the number of operations may vary depending upon the style and design. Might be very few operations will be changed or added into this sheet and rest of all the operation’s remains constant.

Nowadays there is huge usage of the different types of t-shirts, everywhere it is being worn frequently as the piece of clothing for upper torsos means upper body. There are various types of t-shirts based on fashion and people likes, people use to buy it. Also it is a huge and potential garment business, because people are consuming it with very big high margin. The basic requirements of t-shirts manufacturing is knitted fabric either single jersey or double jersey then about machines SNLS, 3/4/5 thread overlock, flatlock and rarely DNLS these are all the basic requirements for manufacturing above types t-shirts. The SMV of the t-shirts will be raging from around 6.5 to 18. Based on style and any fancy attachment may lead to increase the SMV of the t-shirts. Operation sequence is one and all same only based on styles and fashion attachment hardly some of the operation may add or deducted.


  1. 20 Different Types of T-Shirt by Sarina Tariq, September 4, 2023, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T-shirt
  2. The History of The T-shirt by Fabrics Galore, May 18, 2022 https://www.fabricsgalore.co.uk/blogs/fabric-news/the-history-of-the-t-shirt
  3. 20 Different Types of T-Shirts, https://sewguide.com/types-of-tshirts/

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