Women’s Saree Blouse Drafting and Cutting Procedures

Last Updated on 25/04/2024

Drafting and Cutting Procedures of the Women’s Saree Blouse

R.S. Balakumar
Associate Professor
Dept of Fashion Design & Arts
Hindustan University, Chennai, India
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com

Introduction:
Is a women’s upper torso wear. Mostly the Indian women’s of all groups will have eager to wear this dress, while wearing the saree as their costume. Many styles and designs are continuously introduced by our fashion designers. So, saree is treated as a women’s best friend. Many women’s prepare to make their own saree blouse and likely to wear. Even now foreigners (woman’s) visiting India would be preferred to wear the saree blouse.

Measurement required:

1. Back length -36.cm.
2. Front length-39cm.
3. Shoulder width-36cm.
4. Across back width-33 cm.
5. Upper breast-88cm.
6. Mid bust-92cm.
7. Lower breast-81cm.
8. Waist-76cm.
9. Sleeve length-28 cm.
10. Sleeve girth-27cm.

Suitable materials:
Cotton, poplin, 2×2 cotton, polyester, silk, synthetic, and chiffon with lining .

Material required:
2 lengths + 1 sleeve length + 10cm or approximate estimation-1metre.(cloth width-92cm)

Pattern parts:

• Back cut-1,
• Front cut-2,
• Waist yoke cut-4,
• Sleeve cut-2,
• Neck bias piece as required, front placket cut-3 (front hook fastening).

Drafting Details Women’s Saree Blouse:

Back part:

1-2 = Back length + 1.2 cm.

3-2 = Bottom fold 3.5cm.

4-1 = Armhole depth, Bust 16.

5-4 = Neck Drop 2.5cm.

6-1 = ½ shoulder (-) 2.5 cm.

7-6 = as per draft.

8-4 = 1/4th Bust + 1.2 cm.

9-2 = 1/4th waist + 2.5 cm for dart intake, each 1.2 cm. Two darts are to be constructed.

10-11 = 1.2 cm

12-6 = 1.2 cm as per draft.

13-6 = 9cm.

14-13 = draw as per draft.

15-7 = 4cm, as per draft. 16 is middle of 2 to 9 measure.

17-16 = 12 cm dart length.

18 to 19 = 2.5cm dart intake. Keep side seam margin 2.5cm extra.

Front part:

1-2 = 1/3rd Bust + 2.5 cm

1-3 = 1/4th Bust + 2.5 cm.

1-4 = 1/6th Bust.

1-5 = ½ shoulder (or) 1/6th Bust girth.

6-5 = as per draft.

7-4 = 1/4th Bust + 1.2 cm.

8-7 = as per draft.

9-5 = 1.2 cm.

10-5 = 9 cm.

11-4 = 2.5 cm 12 is middle of 5 to 6.

12-13=1.2 cm.

14-10 = 11 as per draft.

15-2 = Dart distance is 1/12th Bust +1.2 cm.

16-15 = 2.5 cm, dart intake.

17-15 = 2.5 c m. as per draft.

18-15 = 7.5 cm dart length.

19-2 = 4 cm.

20-19 = 1.2 cm. 21 is midpoint of 19 to 11.

22 – 21 = 7.5 cm dart length and intake 1.2 cm.

23 – 8 = 4cm

24-23 = 1.2 cm.

25 – 26 = 9cm dart length and dart intake is 1.2cm. Side seam margin is 4 cm as per draft.

Waist Band (yoke):

27 – 28 = 1/4th waist + 1.2 cm.

29-27 = 8 cm

29-30 = 1/4th waist.

31 – 27 = 1.2 cm.

31 – 32 = 2.5 cm.

29-33 = 2.5 cm.

34 – 33 = 1.2 cm side seam margin 4cm as per draft.

Sleeve:

1-2 = Sleeve length + 1.2 cm.

2-3, Bottom Fold 4 cm.

1-4 = Bicep depth is 1/12th Bust + 2.5 cm.

5-4 = 1/6th Bust + 1.2 cm

6-4 = 1/6th Bust + 1.2 cm.

7-2 = ½ sleeve girth

8-2 = 1.2 cm 13 is 1/3rd of 1 to 5 measure. 14 is 1/3rd of 1 to 5 measures.

13 – 15 = 1.2cm as per draft.

16-14 = 1.2 cm, as per draft. 17 is 1/3rd of 6 to 1 distance. 18 is 1/3rd of 6 to 1 distance.

19 – 17 = 1.2 cm as per draft.

Conclusion:
Garment pattern making is based on a simple mathematical calculation as per drafting method as well as the technical knowledge with skill ness is required. Draping method involves in preparing the pattern also need to have more practical knowledge. Beginners must prepare the paper pattern and then transferred in to muslin cloth. After stitching, the garment must undergo the process of dress form fitting or the live model fitting is good to get the result.

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Mazharul Islam Kiron

Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. Mr. Kiron is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.

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