Role of Enzymes in Denim Washing with Problems and Solution

Role of Enzymes in Denim Washing & Different Types of Problem Solution by Technically

Syed Maruf Ahmed
Technical Officer, Ha-Meem Group
M.Sc. in Textile Engineering (KUET)

What is an Enzyme?

An enzyme is a type of protein produced by living cells that helps accelerate chemical reactions.

Enzymes in Denim Washing:

Enzymes have revolutionized in denim washing by offering an eco-friendly, cost-effective, and sustainable alternative to conventional chemical treatments. The enzyme used in denim washing is called Cellulase Enzyme. It specifically breaks down the cellulose fibers of denim fabric, resulting in a faded and naturally aged (vintage look).

Role of Enzymes in Denim Washing

Brushing Effect: Enzyme washing creates a natural faded effect along with a brushing look.
Increased Softness: Makes the fabric softer, enhancing comfort.
Durability: Compared to stone washing, enzyme washing causes less damage and increases longevity.
Eco-Friendly: Reduces the use of harmful chemicals, making the washing process more environmentally friendly.
Fig: Different types of shade before enzyme and after enzyme wash

Types of Enzymes Used in Denim Washing

Different types of enzymes are used in denim washing to achieve fabric texture, softness, and faded effects. The most commonly used enzymes are:

1. Cellulase Enzyme

This is the most commonly used enzyme in denim washing.
It breaks down cellulose fibers, creating the desired fading and stone wash effect.

It is classified into two types:

Neutral Cellulase: Causes minimal damage and produces a mild wash effect.
Acid Cellulase: Works faster, provides stronger fading, but may slightly weaken the fabric.

2. Amylase Enzyme

Used for breaking down starch.
Removes starch or sizing agents present in denim fabric, making it ready for washing.
Helps remove starch without damaging the fabric’s strength.

3. Laccase Enzyme

Removes indigo dye through oxidation, creating a natural fading effect.
Used as an eco-friendly alternative, as it reduces the need for chemical bleaching.

4. Catalase Enzyme

Used to break down hydrogen peroxide, which is applied during bleaching.
Ensures complete removal of residual chemicals from the fabric without causing damage.

The use of these enzymes depends on the desired washing effect and fabric durability.

How Enzymes Work in Denim Washing

1. Fiber Breakdown and Micro-Abrasion Effect

Cellulase enzymes break the glucosidic bonds in cellulose fibers, causing micro-scale abrasion on the fabric surface.
This leads to the gradual removal of indigo dye, creating the washed-out or faded look.

2. Alternative to Stone Washing

Enzyme washing is often used as a substitute for pumice stone washing.
Stone washing physically abrades fabric, while cellulase enzymes achieve the same effect chemically, more gently, and in a controlled manner.
This results in less fabric damage while achieving the soft and vintage look.

3. Controlled Abrasion in Specific Areas

Different types of Cellulase enzymes (Acidic or Neutral) can be used to achieve varied levels of abrasion.
Using spray, brushing, PP spray, or hand scraping techniques, higher abrasion can be applied to specific areas such as knees, thighs, and pockets.

4. Creating a Fluffy and Soft Texture

Enzyme washing removes excess surface fibers, making the fabric softer and more comfortable.
It enhances the visual appeal and rich texture of denim, which is essential for high-quality denim production.

5. Eco-Friendly and Controlled Abrasion

Compared to stone washing, enzyme washing uses less water, energy, and chemicals, making it more sustainable.
It reduces fabric damage, ensuring the longevity of denim garments.

Best Practices for Achieving Optimal Abrasion and Fading Effects

To achieve better abrasion and fading effects, certain methods and recommendations should be followed.

Proper enzyme selection, process control, and suitable techniques help improve fading, abrasion, and texture in denim washing.

Tips for Enhancing Enzyme Abrasion in Denim Washing:

Water-free enzyme and stone-free enzyme: Applying enzyme without water and stone can enhance the abrasion effect.
Neutral enzyme + Acid enzyme combination: Using both together accelerates abrasion and improves the faded look.
Stone + Acid enzyme (Bio-Polish) combination: Provides faster effects and better abrasion.
Desizing before enzyme washing: Applying Amylase enzyme for desizing before enzyme washing improves results and helps solve washing-related problems.

Key Factors for Effective Enzyme Washing

1. Selecting the Right Enzyme

Choose Cellulase Enzyme, which helps achieve proper abrasion by breaking down cellulose fibers, leading to fading and stone wash effects.
Acidic Cellulase provides faster fading and higher abrasion, while Neutral Cellulase offers a milder and softer wash effect.

2. Controlling Enzyme Concentration

Proper enzyme concentration is crucial.
Excess enzyme can cause excessive abrasion, reducing fabric durability.
Use enzyme within a standard range (e.g., 0.5-1% of total washing solution) for controlled abrasion and effect.

3. Controlling Time and Temperature

Time and temperature regulation is critical in enzyme washing.
Recommended washing time: 30-45 minutes.
Ideal temperature: 30-50°C.
Higher temperatures increase enzyme activity, but excessive heat can adversely affect fabric integrity.

4. Customized Washing Techniques

Using customized Cellulase enzyme processing, specific areas such as knees, pockets, and thighs can be given more abrasion.
Scraping or brushing techniques can enhance fading in specific areas.
If additional abrasion is needed, the process can be extended accordingly.

5. pH Level and pH Control

Maintaining pH is essential, as an incorrect pH level can affect enzyme efficiency.
Optimal pH range: 4.5-5.5, which enhances enzyme activity and abrasion.
pH above 6 reduces enzyme effectiveness, leading to weaker abrasion effects.

6. Supporting Chemicals

Use Cellulase Activators and Peroxide Deactivators.
Cellulase activators enhance enzyme efficiency, enabling faster abrasion and effects.
Peroxide deactivators help neutralize bleaching chemicals, preventing excessive damage to fabric.

7. Monitoring & Testing

Continuously observe and test enzyme processing.
Testing at different time and temperature levels ensures optimal abrasion and finishing effects.
Conduct lab trials or pilot runs to determine the best washing parameters.

8. Post-Enzyme Washing Process

After enzyme washing, thorough rinsing is necessary to remove residual chemical films from the fabric.
Three water changes and thorough rinsing are essential to eliminate any remaining enzymes or chemicals.
Once washing is complete, additional stone washing or tumbling processes can be applied to enhance abrasion and fading effects further.

Conclusion

Denim washing is an important process in textile industry, particularly in producing fashionable and comfortable denim garments. Enzymes play a significant role in the denim washing process, transforming the fabric’s appearance, texture, and feel while maintaining environmental sustainability. With ongoing advancements in biotechnology, enzyme-based processes are expected to play an even greater role in the future of sustainable denim production.

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Mazharul Islam Kiron

Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. Mr. Kiron is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.