Production of Men’s Long Sleeve Shirt in Readymade Garment Industry

Last Updated on 13/01/2021

A Focus on the Production of Men’s Long Sleeve Shirt in Export Readymade Garment Industry

R.S. Balakumar
Associate Professor
Dept of Fashion Design & Arts
Hindustan University, Chennai, India
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com

 

Present scenario of the mentioned production data has been taken from the export garment manufacturing Industry in Chennai.

Production capacity is normally varying factor to one factory to another this is because of the skill based on sewing machine operators, sewing room masters / supervisors, working atmosphere and availability of the sophisticated sewing machineries, quilts and attachments, workers motivation production incentives and allowing the necessary benefits to the operators. In this article I will focus production on men’s long sleeve shirt in garment industry.

Men’s Long Sleeve Shirt
Fig: Men’s long sleeve shirt

Multi skill training for sewing operators and necessary benefits given to skilled worker will make less absenteeism as well as production increment constantly.

Analyzing the sewing operator’s skill grid will be the identical reflection on gaining the higher productivity.

The standard time for each operation, daily production target and the number of sewing machine

(A) STANDARD TIME OF EACH OPERATION IN MEN’S LONG SLEEVE SHIRT

Operation No. Operation Standard Allowed Minutes
1 Hem pocket mouth 0.15
2 Crease pocket 0.12
3 Run stitch of collar fall with interlining 0.70
4 Turn and Press 0.34
5 Top stitch fall 0.40
6 Stay stitch fall 0.20
7 Trim off fall 0.14
8 Hem collar band with interlining 0.38
9 Attach fall to band 0.49
10 Turn and press 0.30
11 Top stitch band 0.26
12 Trim band 0.15
13 Mark collar notches 0.18
14 Button holing at band 0.12
15 Button sewing at band 0.15
16 Hem cuff with interlining 0.32
17 Run stitch cuff 0.28
18 Turn and press 0.25
19 Top stitch cuff 0.55
20 Buttonholing at cuff 0.25
21 Button sewing at cuff 0.28
22 Set sleeve placket 0.46
23 Finish sleeve placket 0.72
24 Sew label to yoke 0.57
25 Back yoke setting 0.44
26 Sew left front placket with interlining 0.33
27 Buttonholing on left front 0.65
28 Sew pocket on left front 0.77
29 Hem right front edge 0.30
30 Button sewing on right front 0.55
31 Join shoulder 0.56
32 Sleeve setting 0.75
33 Side seam and Underarm closing 0.92
34 Cuff setting 0.71
35 Hem bottom 0.78
36 Close collar 0.70

Total time per garment = 15.22 Minutes

Juki sewing: Machines lock stitch made in Japan.

(B) DAILY PRODUCTION TARGET
Our daily production target will be 500 garments per day

(C) THE NUMBER OF SEWING MACHINISTS ARE REQUIRED
We require 17 sewing machinists for achieving the above production target per day. The number of sewing machinists can be calculated by the following formula:

Working Time / day x Number of sewing Machinists
………………………………………………………………………………….. = Daily production Quantity
…………………..Total time per garment

Let,

Y be the number of sewing machinists

..480 x Y
……………….. = 500 Garments
15.22

=> 480Y = 500 x 15.22
=> 480Y = 7610
=> Y = 15.85
=> Y = 16 Sewing Machinists

According to this calculation method, we should require 16 sewing machinists for producing 500 garments at 480 minutes per day.

However, sewing machinists cannot work 480 minutes per day without any break since they are the human being. For instance, they need to go to lavatory, to take a drink or have a chat with other colleagues. If they work 480 minutes without break, they will feel fatigued which will affect their working efficiency. The productivity will be lowered. Furthermore, when they are absent due to sickness, there is no more sewing machinist to work for their vacancy.

In addition, in case of complicated styles, we may spend much time to finish one garment. The standard time of one garment will be longer, so one or two more sewing machinists are required that can stabilize our daily production target. As a result, we need to require I more sewing machinist to make 500 garments per day.

(D) MACHINERY AND EQUIPMENT
Sufficient machineries and equipment are required for producing men’s long sleeve shirt.

Machinery Type Quantity
Single Needle lockstitch machine with Thread Trimmer 14 sets
Collar Turning and pressing Machine 1 set
Button holing Machine 1 set
Button Sewing Machine 1 set
Cuff Turning and pressing Machine 1 set
Chain stitch Machine 1 set
5-thread over locking machine with Safety Stitch and Thread Trimmer 2 sets
Pocket Creaser 1 set
Total 22 sets

Attachments

  1. Hemmer
  2. Template
  3. Swing gauge of ¼ inch and 1/16 inch
  4. Folder
  5. Sleeve placket Binder
  6. Roller Feed

Sewing operators’ constant training on the job and off the job, class room lectures with video sessions related with sewing operational improvement place an important feature to increase the sewing operators’ skill level ability sewing operators’ skill grid.

No. Description Level
1 Full finished Garment / Sample maker’s position A+
2 Collar making, cuff making with simple operational knowledge gained A
3 Without ———— collar making, — making but — simple / Operational knowledge with 502. TFOA m/c operation B+
4 Front zipper attaching, pocket making, pleat making, 50 LT machine operation known B
5 Front placket making Button / Button hole side Arm hole top edge stitch making B
6 Side body closing with 50 LT M/c.  Simple sewing operational known C
7 Machine control ability with simple sewing operation i.e. Buck with yoke attaching (using of necessary Folders) placket top edge stitch with ¼th guide / presser foot T

Conclusion:
Achieving productivity plays an important role in apparel industry in present days. Expectation of more orders can be made in a given time with higher quality and productivity is essential. So as to increase the productivity to reach the buyer will make the healthy situation and also build up good relationship with our buyers and more and more continuous orders can be expected from the buyers.

References:

  1. Apparel Production Analysis-Jacob Solinger.
  2. Ready to Wear Apparel Analysis-Patty Brown & Jannet Rice.
  3. Observed Productivity In ERM-Industry In Chennai By. R.S.Balakumar.

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