Methods of Drawing and Duplicating a Marker
Noor Ahmed Raaz
Faculty Member, Dept. of Textile Engineering,
Atish Dipankar University of Science & Technology
What is Marker?
Marker is a long thin paper which contains all necessary pattern pieces for different sizes for a particular style of garments. There are different methods of marker drawing and duplicating. In this article I have discussed some marker drawing and duplicating methods with advantages and disadvantages.
Multiple copies of the marker paper are usually needed. These copies can either be made when marker plan is first drawn or the master marker can be reproduced as needed by a variety of methods:
Drawing Marker on Paper
In this method, 6 to 8 markers can be duplicated at a time. Both sided carbon papers are placed in between each two marker papers. When marking of patterns is done on the upper page by pens or pencils, duplicate markers are thus achieved.
- Cost and time effective in case of lower number of copies like 3 to 4.
- Labor intensive
- Time consuming as it takes long time.
In spirit duplicating m/c the master marker is drawn on paper with a layer of special hectograph paper underneath it. This paper transfers a blue line onto the back of the master marker as it is drawn. The master is then used to make one copy at a time in spirit duplicating m/c. It is a messy process but mane copies can be produced.
- A large number of copies can be developed so it is cost effective.
- Overlapping, folding or shrinkage of marker papers may cause faulty copies.
- In case of higher width of marker, it would be difficult to duplicate.
The patterns are first placed on to the marker paper, and then marking is done with pencils. Small perforation is done along the drawn lines of the marker papers. This perforated marker is then placed onto the fabric lay and powder of French chalk is spread over the marker. French chalk slates on the fabric like bubbles outside the drawn line and thus patterns appear.
- This type of marker may be used several times.
- Time consuming;
- Not cost effective i.e. it incurs huge cost.
Using Photograph or light sensitive paper
A special kind of light sensitive paper is used in this technique. When patterns are kept on it and exposed to light, the uncovered areas of the paper change in color by reaction with light to different shades and patterns are marked.
- Quick process, copies can be duplicated with more precision;
- Huge number of copies can de duplicated at a time.
Marking directly on fabric
Drawing by chalk or pencil: Fabric is first spread over the cutting table and then the pattern pieces are set up directly onto the fabric. Marking is done by a chalk or pencil. This technique usually requires more time and very rarely used in the RMG sector. In tailoring purposes it is very common.
- The process is convenient for tailoring process.
- Time consuming process;
- Well experienced planner is required.
Te patterns are kept onto the fabric and then paint is sprayed over the patterns. The areas covered by the patterns are not sprayed and thus patterns appear with original color of the fabric.
- Convenient for check fabric.
- Spray machine should be cleaned regularly which is expensive.
- Accurate lines may not be developed as the shape of pattern pieces becomes distorted.
- Not applicable for high absorbent fabric due to color migration.
When the marker planning is finished, the marker is saved in computer memory and at any time it can be displayed on the computer screen. This marker can be printed out when desired.
- High accuracy in duplicating copies.
- High initial cost
A light sensitive paper is used where pattern pieces are placed according to marker plan. Then it is exposed to ultraviolet ray and marker is made visible with ammonia vapor. Patterns are also marked on marker by perforation and the duplicating is also done with the same process.
- More accuracy in marker making and duplicating.
- Better quality
- Low labor cost
- Less time required.
- High initial cost.
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Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. He is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.