Garment Pattern Grading Techniques
Mayedul Islam
Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.
Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: mayedul.islam66@gmail.com
Pattern Grading:
Creation of design and construction of patterns for the components of design is the first step in apparel manufacturing. This requires determination of geometrical shape of the body surface in order that appropriate shell structures can be produced. For pattern grading, anthropometric data should be available for the market in which the garment is to be sold.
Pattern grading is a technique used either to maximise or minimise the size of a pattern. This becomes necessary when large numbers of different sized garments have to be produced in a relatively shorter time as is done in the garment industry. Making it possible to obtain proper fit for all sizes without changing the title for a given compilation of anthropometric measurements that are suitable for a person whose body measurements lie within certain tolerance limits of the garment size measurements. The shape and size of the garment relative to the shape of the body, known as the fit, will be strongly influenced by physical and mechanical properties such as tendency of the fabric to stretch, shrink, distort, and drape due to stresses induced during use under static and dynamic situations, which are to be taken into account while drafting the pattern for a garment.
By following production patterns approved sample is normally made for medium size but if the buyer requires different size then we would have to grade the dimension like S, L, XL, XXL, etc. Grading is an important term in garments manufacturing which means step wise increasing or decreasing the master patterns.
For garment pattern grading the following two techniques are commonly used:
Manual Grading:
The desired range of size is created one by one using pattern templates/master patterns. A first master pattern pieces are sketched on the pattern board and then the points are marked around the pattern pieces as per the direction of grade rules. In this way we can get both the enlarged or reduced size patterns for all sizes of a particular style of garments. A manually operated grading machine can also perform this job. This device grips the master pattern pieces and places on the pattern board as per the predetermined direction after which appropriate edge can be traced out maintaining the grade rule.
Advantages:
- Cost effective process
Disadvantages:
- Time consuming process
- Expected accuracy may not be obtained.
Computer Aided Grading:
At first grade rules are stored in the computer memory and then the computer can automatically develop pattern sets for all sizes using the direction given in the grade chart.
Advantages:
- Quick process i.e. less time consumption;
- High accuracy may be obtained
Disadvantages:
- High initial cost is involved
- Skilled operator is required.
Two types of pattern grading are generally done in garment industry:
1. Half part grading: If the increasing is done in every sides of a pattern, then it called half part grading.
2. ¼ th part grading: If the grading acquires increasing or decreasing in any two sides of a pattern, then it is called ¼ th part grading.
You may also like:
- Grading and Pattern Making: Job Interview Questions
- Perspectives of Anthropometry in Garment Pattern Making
Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. Mr. Kiron is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.
