Different Sewing Techniques with Pictures
Yash Ajit Patil
Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail ltd. Bangalore.
Basics of Sewing Techniques:
Sewing techniques are ignored sometimes in design process but acquiring these skills can be isolated. The basic sewing techniques are only responsible to convert 2D design into 3D realization. Most often sewing techniques simplifies the complexity. Modifying a sample and referring sample to modify them as per each separate design project is only possible by basic consideration of sewing techniques. Learning the basic principles of sewing techniques can help to fashion students and leading edge craft worker to develop their techniques. The basic sewing techniques, which are depends on ability of particular stitches and operation of sewing machine.
Different Sewing Techniques:
One of the basic and simple stitches to master is the straight stitch, also called as backstitch. Triple straight stitch is very hard, and is very famous variation of it. One more sewing technique is called decorative stitch (e.g. chain stitch, strong stitch). This stitch is being used for the purpose of finishing clothing elements with a machine and based on your preferences and sense of aesthetics.
1. Back stitch:
Before invention of sewing machine this stitch was used to create garment. Row after row of back stitches creates a pattern of threads that people can wear. This stitch is strong.
Sewing techniques for back stitch (procedure):
- Make a small stitch
- Pierce the needle exactly at back of the previous stitch, where you just pulled the thread out.
- Make another same stitch and repeat this.
- It looks like stitches are overlapping.
2. Chain stitch:
This is basic and simple stitch from chain stitch family. This showcases the chain like appearance, or else lined up one by one. This is one of the oldest sewing techniques which are used more among different cultures from Asia to Europe.
Sewing technique procedure for chain stitch:
- Take thread out through A. Insert the needle back at A and take it out through point B, at this time pull the needle only to the some extent, don’t pull it completely.
- Bring the thread around the needle from left to right to make a loop
- Slowly pull out needle to tighten the loop and here we will get a 1st part of chain.
- Put needle through B and take it out from C (inside to outside)
- Repeat this action by keeping the thread around the back of needle from left to right to make a loop then extract the needle to get another loop of chain. Repeat this procedure till end.
3. Zigzag stitch:
This stitch is mostly used for hemming fabrics, holes and stitching in elastics. This stitch can be also used as fashion/decorative stitch.
Many of the sewing machines will be having a zigzag stitch option. There’s no need to stitch multiple times with same stitch as it is solid and will avoid seams from fraying. This is also considered as great to make a buttonhole.
How to set sewing machine to the zigzag stitch?
- Calibrate the machine to get the width and length of the stitch you want.
- Slowly press the pedal so that device starts working slowly and guide the fabric as it works.
- Complete till the end of the fabric without stitching one above other stitch.
- In sewing techniques this stitch is called as fashion stitch/decorative stitch.
4. Overlock stitch:
In sewing techniques, basically the overlock stitch is used to secure a edge of the fabrics so that ultimately thread unravelling will be avoided. This sewing technique i.e., overlock stitch can sew either single piece or double piece. This can be used for a edging, hemming or else seaming. An overlock machine will cut the edges of the fabric as some machines may have provided with cutters Or some may be provided with without cutters. This cutter is generally helping to make a seam with less difficulties and is faster rate. An overlock sewing machine is having number of sewing thread cones. In this machine bobbin is not used, instead of bobbin thread looper threads are used and this looper threads are fed to loopers of the machine. Loopers are assisting to make a loop which will pass from the needle thread to the edge of the cloth hence; the edge of the fabric is bounded by seam. Overlooking is also said to be a overedging, merrowing, or serging. This machines runs at the speed ranging from 1000 to 9000 RPM (this Speed may change depending upon make and manufacturer of the machine).
5. Blind hem stitch:
This is the stitch that is not visible. Blind stitches make a use of a folded edge of the cloth to hide the stitches, so that this type of stitch is used to produce blind hem or to attach 2 folded edges together. When you look towards the garment from outside this blind hem stitch cannot be seen. As well as it is fully hide inside also. The sewer takes only some of the threads from fabric; hence most of the stitching is hidden inside the hem. Generally this stitch can be used for pocket attach, facing, in trousers at the bottom, for waistband, etc. Blind hem can be done on sewing machine also. For that, a special pressure foot id required and operator has to select stitch pattern matches to the blind hems.
6. Reverse stitch:
Reverse stitch is used to finish the stitch and to avoid it from opening of the stitch. To the machine itself the reverse lever will be provided so that by pressing that lever we can do the reverse stitch. The movement you press the lever, the feed dog starts to rotate in reverse direction so that whatever stitch you had performed on that stitch itself one stitch will come i.e., in reverse way. To save the time to press the back lever there is one advancement in machines i.e., manufacturers have given another back lever exactly to the side of the needle, so that operator can save time for pressing lever. In this new system, pressing by thumb you can do back stitch.
Bar tack is also used to secure the stitch. The simplest method of doing this is on computerised machines with bar tack function. This sewing technique is used for sewing on the belt loops on all garments. It will create a stitch which tacks if onto the waistline. Wherever the durable professional finish is required at that place this is required. This is mainly used in trousers, jeans belt loops. Apart from this sewing technique is used at fly, side pockets, back welt pockets. Also it is being used in jacket production.
8. Buttonhole stitch:
This sewing technique is basically a hole in the fabric to allow the button pass from one side of the fabric to another side, so that openings will be closed. When you cut and give a slit into the fabric, then there are more chances to unravelling of threads. So that fabric quality will be changed or that cut/slit will be damaged. So the purpose of this sewing technique that is buttonhole stitch is that, to provide strength and to avoid unravelling of threads during usage.
In the world of sewing techniques, mastering the art of stitching is like unlocking a world of possibilities. From the fundamental backstitch to the intricate buttonhole stitch, each technique plays a vital role in transforming 2D designs into 3D realities. These techniques are the backbone of fashion, bridging creativity and functionality. While the backstitch weaves historical threads, the chain stitch showcases cultural diversity. Zigzag stitches offer both practicality and aesthetics, while overlock stitches secure the edges. The invisible beauty of the blind hem stitch will deliver to do not showcase a stitch at outside, and the reverse stitch ensures a neat finish. Bar tack and buttonhole stitches add durability and functionality to garments. Each of these sewing techniques is a thread in the fabric of fashion, contributing to the seamless blend of style and substance in our wardrobes. In the world of textiles, knowing these sewing techniques is not just a skill but a form of artistry that transforms fabric into fashion.
- Sewing Techniques, https://www.bloomsbury.com/us/sewing-techniques-9781350411579/
- Basic Sewing Techniques, ByGOSIA Z VOTTONBEE, https://ctnbee.com/blog/en/basic-sewing-techniques-review/
- Backstitch – How To Backstitch Step By Step https://blog.treasurie.com/how-to-back-stitch/
- 10 Basic Stitches You Should Know, By Theinspiredsewist, https://theinspiredsewist.com/10-basic-stitches-you-should-know/
- Blind stitch, https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blind_stitch
- Industrial Sewing, https://www.industrialsewing.co.uk/industrial-sewing-machines/bar-tack
- How to Do Buttonhole Stitch, By MOLLIE JOHANSON, 08/11/20, https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/buttonhole-stitch-tutorial-photos-and-instructions-1105910
Image Courtesy: Sarah’s Hand Embroidery Tutorials
Q1: Do I really need to finish my edges?
Ans: Yes, as you are going to wash and wear the garment subsequently, there are high chances of unravelling of threads. So finishing of edges is needed.
Q2: Is sewing technique is hard?
Ans: Sewing technique is not hard but it is also not easy one. This is life long skill which will take more time and serious efforts. When you will have patience, practice and know the process that will assist you to reach your sewing targets.
Q3: Is sewing an art technique?
Ans: Sewing is traditionally considered as craft than art, but these techniques have more established in art world as artist use sewing to make textile artwork.
Q4: Is sewing techniques skill or talent?
Ans: Sewing is a skill, and it will not hurt any other to have an extra skill set. You’ll never know when it might come in handy; on top of that, it may inspire you to learn some other skills because you’ll have more confidence than before you started as well.
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- Different Types and Classification of Stitches with Pictures
- Different Types of Stitches and Their Uses in Garments
- Seam Pucker: Causes and Solutions
- Types of Seam Used in Garments Manufacturing
Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. He is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.