Different Types of Dart Techniques in Pattern Making

Different Types of Darts Techniques in Pattern Making

Pratik Patil
Department of Textiles (Fashion Technology),
DKTE’S Textile & Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji, India
Intern at Textile Learner
Email: pratikpatil85388@gmail.com

 

What is Dart in Sewing?
Darts are used for dressmaker’s point marks. It is a technique which used to give proper shape to the garments by curving straight fabric to the body. Darts are producing by stitching a long, thin confine to a point, which is then pressed down to one side. Dart manipulation is a technique for moving darts around a block or sloper to create good fit or create new design.

More about darts:
All darts emit from rounded shapes of the figure. The bust is rounded, not pointed. If the dart is tacked to the edge of pivotal point, strain lines will appear around the bust, distorting the fit of the garment. The dart should end at a distance from the bust point to release fabric (fullness) for the bust pile.

darts in pattern
Figure 1: Dart (fadanista.com)

Charting Dart Location:
Darts are an important part of garment construction and there are various types of darts in sewing that every pattern maker should know. Mostly darts are found in the women’s clothing there is less use of darts in the men’s clothing for example jackets and trouser. To fit the shape of the garment to your body in a complimentary way. They can also create style lines that add to a design. Of course, not all types of darts are the same. These are the most used ones you will find in your favorite fitting garments.

charting dart location
Figure 2: Charting dart location (Beangirldesign.com)

Types of Darts:
There are two basic types of darts are as follows:

1. Single pointed dart:
It is most common dart mostly used on skirts at waist and trousers and blouses at bust. The single dart is narrow at one end and wide at the other. With the triangular shape of an angle with single dart point and two dart lines.

single dart-sewing beginners
Figure 3: Single dart-sewing beginners (doinaalexie)

2. Double pointed dart:
It is also called fish-eyed dart and body dart. Mostly this darts is used for jackets and dresses that fit at waist. Double pointed dart is sharp and narrow at both the ends.

double pointed dart
Figure 4: Double pointed dart (doina Alexei)

Different Types of Dart Placement:
There are different types of dart placement which can be found in many different sizes and as found as shoulder dart, mid armhole dart, bodice dart, mid neckline dart, standard waist dart, center front neck dart etc.

1. Bust dart:
This dart is usually starting two inches below the armhole it is also called as side dart it is straight dart and fit under the arm pointing towards bust point. Also, it is used to make an innovative shape in the garment.

bust dart
Figure 5: Bust dart (dresspatternmaking.com)

2. Shoulder dart:
This type of darts is used for proper fitting of garment on shoulder area the dart angle is totally dependent upon design and pattern.

shoulder dart
Figure 6: Shoulder dart (pinterest.com)

3. Dart tuck:
As we sewn the normal dart same way dart tuck tucks are sewn the difference is point of left dart is open it helps to give a pleated look to garments. And due to this process fullness is released below the stitching.

dart tuck
Figure 7: Dart tuck (donia Alexie)

4. Elbow darts:
To make sleeve more fitted dart set in elbow. They are mostly useful for generate the fitted shape in sleeve for more tailored look.

elbow dart
Figure 8: Elbow dart (pinterest.com)

5. Curved dart:
On some pattern’s darts are drawn with tender curve. These types of darts are creating fullness on skirt and pant pattern. The direction of the curve dart is depending on the concave direction or convex direction.

curved dart
Figure 9: Curved dart (theshapesoffabric.com)

6. Sleeve Hem darts:
A little dart tilt from the hem at little finger boundary of the sleeve, sloping to elbow helps to decline the sleeve. It helps sleeve for proper fitting to wrist and elbow.

sleeve hem dart
Figure 10: Sleeve hem dart (clothing patterns 101.com)

7. Skirt/ Pant types of darts:
This type of darts starts at the waist and slump towards hip. As per your choice how much fit you require you have two darts on either side of the center of the skirt waist or pant waist. And as waistline falls past the hips it crates fullness.

skirt or pant type of dart
Figure 11: Skirt/pant type of dart (dresspatternmaking.com)

8. French dart:
This dart starts from the waistline and angles towards the bust. The dress pattern is cut in this shape then it sewn at once along the curve of dart this dart is hard to sew.

French Dart
Figure 12: French dart (madtosew.com)

Types of Darts All Sewist Must Know:

a) Standard dart:
An ideal dart is open at one end, and it is looking like a triangle shape on a pattern peace. and it is used at the bust or waist. It’s the most common type of dart, sometimes it is referred to as a plain dart, and it can be exploited to made various design elements that function same as a dart like princess seam.

types of darts in sewing
Figure 13: Types of darts in sewing (craftsy.com)

To provide more shape. You can place standard darts at other points of the body. Shoulder and neck dart, helps to add a womanly shape to a garment that might otherwise look bulky. And elbow darts permit you to have a more integrated sleeve while still leaving sufficient room to proceed.

b) Serged Darts:
This technique is especially practical when you must add darts to knit garments. Darts can be time-swallow (consuming) process, but if you have a serger you are in luck — using one can speed up the process. As knits do notpin well and to reduce the bulk serging can helps.

serged dart
Figure 14: Serged dart (threads magazine0

c) Converting Darts to Ease:
When you want a more ease silhouette than what customary dart fashion provides, it is good to change darts to ease. Performance so helps add shape, while still giving you the fit of a loose fitted garment. Mostly it works specially on skirts. Also, it is used for set in sleeves while creating sleeve cap.

Converting Darts to Ease
Figure 15: Converting darts to ease (craftsy.com)

References:

  1. Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong
  2. Designing Clothes with the Flat Pattern Method by Sara Alm
  3. How to Use, Adapt, and Design Sewing Patterns By Lee Hollahan
  4. 8 types of dart you need to know-junmei model.
  5. Types of darts every sewist need to know-Rochelle.

Image references:

  1. Types of darts craftsy.com
  2. Serged dart-threads magazine.
  3. French dart-madtosew.com
  4. Skirt/pant type of dart-dresspatternmaking.com
  5. Curveddart-theshapesoffabric.com
  6. Dart-fadanista.com

You may also like:

  1. Dart Manipulation Techniques for Flat Patterns
  2. Garment Pattern Grading Techniques
  3. Garment Pattern Making Techniques
  4. How to Develop Garment Pattern
  5. Steps of Garment Pattern Making
  6. What is Pattern Engineering | Components of Pattern Engineering
  7. Grading and Pattern Making: Job Interview Questions
  8. Perspectives of Anthropometry in Garment Pattern Making

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