Garment Fitting Problems, Reasons and Solutions
Karthikeyan M Ramasamy
BE, M.Tech, MISTE
Department of Industrial Chemistry (Textile), Arba Minch University, Ethiopia.
Fitting is carried out in the wholesale trade to a greater or lesser degree, depending on the market for which the garment is produced. In general great reliance is placed on the ‘perfect pattern’ and therefore most fitting is directed towards perfecting the basic pattern in order to avoid remaking later.
Influencing Characteristics of Fitting
Character of the garment:
One should ask oneself what type of garment it is to be and what function it is to perform. The bodice of a formal evening dress will be fitted differently from that of a leisure or sports garment.
Personality and age:
The fashion-conscious person who moves in equally fashion-conscious society will wish to express a different image from the more conservative person, and an older woman would tend to wish to conceal rather than emphasis her figure.
Figure types and defects:
Many women do not conform exactly to the standard measurements used in the construction of basic patterns. There are often variations in, for example, posture, proportion of bust formation to shoulder construction, hollow back and others. These factors will be taken into account when fitting a garment.
Fashion and fabric:
These factors are most important. Small details in the fitting of, for example, a more flared skirt against a straight one, a more fitted waist versus a loosely fitted shirt, or a square shoulder effect compared with a softly sloping one, contribute greatly towards obtaining a fashionable silhouette. The way of fitting is also influenced by the fabric of the garment, in the case of, say, taffeta or silk jersey.
Garment Fitting Problems, Reasons and Solutions
1. Mistake in Measurement: Measurement may become faulty owing to lack of alertness from either side-taker or giver of the measurement. For instance, one may shrink one’s chest/breast out of modesty or the tailor may also do error in making.
2. Body Observation: Even at the stage of the measurement itself, a bird’s view must be thrown on the structure of the body, so slightly so that the customer does not notice. It must be observed whether fullness is to be kept much or less, shape is to be given full or light. That is a thorough body observation must be done and noted down in the note book.
3. While Drafting: Drafting may be made according to the body as observed. The remarks’ given at different columns in the note book must be properly seen before drafting is done. For example, in case of a, bent shoulder, give somewhat bigger shape otherwise shoulder shall remain strained. Body observation should be used at the stage of drafting itself.
4. Mistake in Layout: While making layout the print position was not kept in mind and cutting of cloth was done without properly making the layout. If after marking the patters, cutting of cloth has started without marking for inlays and turnings it will be a big mistake and garment shall be short to size.
5. Carelessness in Cutting and Stitching: Even after correct marking of the pattern, cutting is done carelessly i.e., lines of inlays and turnings are overlooked, it shall cause the garment coming short to size. While stitching at shoulder neck points inside and outside has not been adjusted or armholes’ points have not been properly adjusted and stitched. In such case ladies shirt or blouse shall be turned around, the body to feel uncomfortable to wear.
6. Mistake in giving Darts, Pleats and Tucks: Darts’ shape has not been given properly. As in case of front of a blouse, slant seam of dart has been given in place of round seam of dart and in the back. round shape dart has been given in place of slant shape. In case of skirts etc. pleats may have been given” more than the size and designs of tucks may have been as if the cloth looks sagging then also the garment will become tight. Therefore use of darts, pleats and tucks must be proper and margin must be kept for it.
7. Mistake in Joining the Balance Marks: If the balance notches in the leg length are not joined with side seams and length seams, crease will certainly rotate. In the upper garments’ if shoulder, lines, chest and waist lines are not met with balance marks at front and back portions, the garment will appear rotating. This will also appear unfitting and loose.
8. Stitching of a Garment not According to the Quality of Cloth: That is making a pant or short by a thing cloth, as the cloth is loose, the crease of pant shall not be taking shape and customer shall feel the tailor has not made a good pant. Making blouse by coarse cloths. This mistake must not be done by the tailor. If a customer demands this, these facts must be brought to his notice in advance.
9. The Cloth-length Coming Short: At times customer purchases less cloth due to money problems or otherwise, which poses a great problem to the tailor. For making a garment out of a fewer doth he has to do a long mathematics, and sometimes directions are also required to be changed. In such cases many times garment remains faulty.
10. Making a Garment without Trial: If at the half finish of a garment, a proper trial is taken, the garment shall certainly be stitched with full confidence, as there shall remain fewer chances of unstitching/the garment after half finish trial. If made without trial, its shape, beauty and finishing\all the three shall be affected. Therefore trial is must before completing the garment. In cases of abnormal structures it is must to take all the three trials.
11. Mistake in Pressing: While pressing a garment in stitching, a slight mistake causes a big disturbance to the shape of the garment, and if the pressing is done with due care, wrong shapes may also be corrected many times. It has been said, “Pressing is an art which gives beauty, clarity and fitness too.” Therefore pressing must be done carefully.
12. Use of Lining and Interlining: Lining and interlining have been given on the main fabrics before shrinking the fabrics. Or it may have been given so sagging or so tight that it takes a loose or creasing shape in the original side of the garment. Or the qualities of both fabrics are not matching. Original cloth is silk and the lining is khaddar or cotton. In such cases also original cloth shall not appear nice.
Keeping the above reasons into mind, ‘it becomes very apparent that a bit of carelessness or negligence causes a big harm’ the garment is unstitched and prepared again.
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Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. He is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.