Necessary Information for a Professional Knitter
Rofiquzzaman Raju
Knitting Technologist, B.J.Group
Chittagong Textile Engineering College
Email: rtextile.finance@gmail.com
Introduction:
Who are doing job in knitting or a professional knitter is responsible for production of knitting section. Working in partnership with the technical and R&D teams, the professional knitter implements the strategy to execute opportunities for fabric plat forming and counter development within the Knits Category to ensure commercial decisions meet quality standards & cost engineering opportunities with the mills. He every time tries to produce maximum production. To become a successful professional knitter you should keep concept of the following knitting terms.
Necessary Information for a Professional Knitter:
1. G.S.M.:
It is technical term that indicates the weight of the fabric per square meter.
2. Changing of G.S.M.:
The GSM of the fabric is change by altering the position of the tension pulley. If pulley move towards the positive direction then the GSM is decrease and in the reverse direction GSM will increase.
3. Points that should consider in case of G.S.M Changing:
- Tension pulley
- Cam position
- Take up motion
4. Factors that should be changed in case of fabric design on quality change:
- Cam setting
- Tension pulley
- Set of needles
- Size of the loop shape
5. Recommendable points of a buyer:
- Diameter of the fabric
- Design of the fabric
- GSM of the fabric
- Total wt. of the fabric
- Yarn count
- Types of yarn
- Color of the fabric
6. Gauge number that are usually seen in different m/c:
- In case of rib m/c. 16 to 18 G are normally used. But in case of improved quality yarn 20G M/cs are used in European country.
- Single jersey m/c are normally found 20, 24, 28 etc. Gauges.
7. Relation between yarn count and m/c gauge seen in different m/c.:
We know,
…………G2
Ne = ————-
…………18
Where,
Ne = English Cotton Count
G = M/c. gauge.
8. Maximum and minimum G.S.M. Of a fabric for a particular yarn:
| Types of m/c | Yarn count | Maximum GSM | Minimum GSM |
| Single Jersey m/c | 20/1 | 240 | 120 |
| Single Jersey m/c | 30/1 | 165 | 100 |
| Rib m/c | 20/1 | 380 | 190 |
| Rib m/c | 30/1 | 180 | 130 |
9. Chemical that used in needle, sinker or m/c cleaning:
- Needle and sinker: Petrol + Needle oil mixture.
- Cylinder: At first wash with petrol and finally wash with needle oil.
10. Oil require per hour for each m/c:
- More than one liter.
11. Weight losses after finish the fabric:
- 6-7% weight losses on the basis of whole weight.
12. Weight increases per square meter after finish the fabric:
- 15-16% weight increases per square meter.
13. Adjusting points of the knitting machine:
- Feeder to needle (horizontal distance, 1 to 2 sinker thickness)
- Feeder to needle (vertical distance, by feeder adjustment or by dia height adjustment)
- Dial to Cylinder distance.
- Sinker groove to Cylinder groove.
- Tension and loop length.
- Yarn tension adjustment.
- Adjustable speed in motor driving shaft.
- Change pinion in take up roller to perform tension.
14. Wastage of the factory:
- Empty cartoon or yarn
- Yarn and fabric wastage due to packing pin marks, yarn irregularity, re coning, knotting, recreating of new package on the knitting m/c, threading of knitting elements.
- Drop out loops, broken needles, stripe effect, lack of supervision and worker’s negligence.
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Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. Mr. Kiron is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.
