Drafting / Cutting Procedures of Lehenga Choli

Last Updated on 03/01/2021

Drafting / Cutting Procedures of a Lehenga Choli

R.S. Balakumar
Associate Professor,
Dept of Fashion Design & Arts,
Hindustan University, Chennai, India
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com

Introduction:
Lehenga choli which is also known as Ghagra choli. It is a very unique dress from India which is mostly worn by the bride in the wedding. It is also traditional dress in some part of India. Lehenga choli is a combination outfit of a Lehenga, tight Choli and a Dupatta. Drafting details of lehenga choli details is discussed here.

Drafting Details of Lehenga Choli:

Back Part:

A – 1 = Arm depth is bust 16 + ½”.

A – 2 = N. W. length + ½”.

A – 3 = Full length + ½”.

4 – A = 1/5th Neck girth + ¼”.

5 – A = ½ Shoulder width + ½”.

5 – 6 = Draw a line.

7 – 5 = ¾” shoulder’s Slope.

8 – 1 = 1/4th Bust + 1“.

2 – 9 = 1/4th waist + 1”.

10 –3 = Same as 8 to 1.

11 is the middle of 10 to 3 measure for Back dart construction. B is the dart in take of ¾” of each dart for waist Suppression. Allow side inlays and bottom hem marginal portion 1 ¼” extra.

lehenga choli drafting — Fig: Lehenga choli drafting

Front Part:

A – 1 = 1/6th Bust + ½” (arm depth)

A – 2 = N. W. length + ½”.

3 – A = Full length + ½”.

4 – A = 1/5th Neck girth + ¼”.

5 – A = ½ Shoulder width + ½” for seam.

5 – 7 = ¾” Slope.

8 – 1 = 1 /4th Bust + 1”.

9 – 2 = 1/4th Waist + 1”.

10 – 3 = Save as 1 to 8 Measure.

11 is middle of 3 to 10 for Front dart and B is the dart intake ¾” for each dart for waist suppression. Allow side inlays 1“as per draft. Draw the Arm hole Curve 7 to 8 as per slightly inward Curve position to give best fit to the wearer.

A – 12 = A to 4 + 1 ½’’Front Neck down or as per desired

13 – 4 – 12 is the Front Neck shape as per draft.

Sleeve Part:

A – 1 = 1/4th Bust (-) ¾”.

3 – 1 = 1/6th Bust + 1“.

2 – 1 = 1/6th Bust + 1”.

4 – A = Sleeve length + ½”.

5 – 4 = ½ Sleeve girth.

4 – 6 = ½ sleeve girth.

7 is the middle of 2 to A.

8 – 7 = ¾” upward and A, 8, 2 is back arm portion.

9 is the middle of 3 to A portion.

3, 9, A is the Front arm portion. Allow Sleeve side portion and sleeve bottom hem line extra inlays 1” and hem 1 ½“ as per draft.

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Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. Mr. Kiron is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.