Ladies Kurti Drafting and Cutting Technique
R.S. Balakumar
Associate Professor,
Dept of Fashion Design & Arts,
Hindustan University, Chennai, India
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com
What is Ladies Kurti?
Ladies kurti is look like as kameez. But kurti’s length is shorter then kameez. It is a very comfortable dress. It is used in all season but specially used in summer for comfortness. Kurti is usually worn by college going girls in India, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka.
Drafting Procedures of Ladies Kurti:
Measurements Required: Full length 30” N.W length 16 ½” Shoulder width 14” mid Bust 36”. Waist 30”. Hip neck 15” long sleeve length 23” girth 11”.
Pattern parts Required: Front cut 1 on fold, back cut 1 on fold, sleeve cut 2.
Material suggested: Cotton, poplin, silk, crape, synthetic, chiffon crape and satin.
Material Required: 2.50 meter. Cloth width 42”.
Drafting Details of Front Part:
1-2= Full length + 1 ¼”.
1-3= Arm depth, 1/6th Bust +1”.
1-4= N.W. length + ½”
5 is the midpoint of 3 to 1measure. Front neck shape should drawn.
6-1= ½ shoulder width + ½”
7-6= Draw a line.
8-3= 1/4th Bust +1”.
9-6= shoulder’s slope ¾”
10-1= 1/6th Bust +1”.
11-10= Same as 5 to 1 measure.
12-11= 1 ½” at 45o.
8-13-14= 1 ½” Draw a line.
15-13= ¾” Waist shape.
16-2= 1/3rd Hip +1 ½”.
17-16=3/4” Bottom shape.
18-7= 1” as per draft.
19 is the mid-point of 6 to 7.
19-20= ½” inward arm hole curve to be draw
Waist middle dart to the drawn, 8”x ¾”
Neck open front 5 ½” (21 to 22)
Drafting Details of Back Part:
After cutting the front portion, laid on another paper and draw the back portion as per instructions given below.
23-1 = 1 ½” back neck drop.
24-1 = Save as front 1 to 10 measure.
25-24 = 1 ½” as per draft, construct the back neck shape.
26-27-28 = armhole curve is to be drawn away from the front arm curve portion.
Back waist dart 8” x ¾” middle of 4 to 15 as per draft.
Drafting Details of Sleeve Part:
1 to 2 = sleeve length+1”.
1to3 = 1/8th bust-3/4”.
3to4 = 1/4 bust-3/4”.
2to5 = 1/6th bust-1/2”.
6 is the middle of 1 to 4 measure.
7 is ½ of the 6 to 4 measure.
8 is the middle of 6 to 1 measure.
9 -7 = 3/4”shape as per draft.
8-10 = 3/4 upward shape as per draft.
1-10-7-4 = back armhole shape.
4-6-1 = front armhole shape as per the draft.
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Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. Mr. Kiron is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.
