Different Types of Fashion Sewing for Fashionable Garments

Last Updated on 14/01/2021

Different Types of Fashion Sewing for Fashionable Garments

R.S. Balakumar
Associate Professor
Dept of Fashion Design & Arts
Hindustan University, Chennai, India
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com


Fashionable Garments:
Fashionable Garments are being sewn by Fashion sewing. Mostly, invisible or hidden portion of the sewing must be always as much as important. To attract the fashion oriented customers will be preferred only garments have hidden seams with durability and free from the sewing defects at its zero level.

fashion sewing
Fig: Fashion sewing

Different Types of Fashion Sewing:
Fashion sewing consists of the following types of sewing such as:

  1. Plain seam
  2. Plain Seam with clean – edge finish
  3. Plain seam using Basting stitch
  4. Plain seam with Bound edges
  5. Welt seam
  6. Open welt seam
  7. French seam
  8. Flat – felled seam
  9. Corded seam
  10. Curved seam
  11. Right angle seam (or) Corner turns.

Knitted Fabrics must be used zigzag seam. Straight stitch with zigzag stitch automated stretch stitch reinforced taped seam. Flat lock seam / stitch, 5 thread over lock seam, Feed off the arm m/c seam, Bar tack stitch can reinforcement stitch, Double Needle chain stitch, Elasticized roller puller m/c for elastic with waist band attachment purpose. Button hole machine and Button sewn machine, special presser foot, edge guider, folder attachment, Ruffle attachment, Ripping foot usage, Gathering attachment usage, zigzag seam and embroidery stitches are used for value added fashionable garments of women, men and children’s wear.

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1. Plain seam: 
Is the most common seam and is used to sew two pieces of fabric together. The length of the stitch is between 10 and 12 stitches per inch. The width of the seam is usually 5/8 inch for fashion sewing and ½” for industry sewing.

2. Plain seam with clean-edge Finish
This seam is the method of finishing a plain seam helps to keep the seams flat and prevent fraying. It also helps finish the raw edges of open seams.

3. Plain seam using basting stitch:
This is used to sew two pieces of fabric together when a temporary seam is needed for the preliminary fitting of a garment or as the first step in sewing a speciality seam. The length of the stitch is about six stitches per inch and is generally the largest stitch on the sewing machine. The width of the seam is the same as the plain seam.

4. Plain seam with bound Edges: 
A plain seam with bound edges requires a bias tape and is desirable when sewing with fabric that frays easily. It is also used to bind the seams when sewing with furs.

5. Welt seam: 
A welt seam finish allows the plain seam to be “detailed” with top stitching in the same colour thread as the garment or in a contrasting colour thread.

6. Open welt Seam: 
An open welt seam forms a small tack and emphasizes a construction detail. This, of course, adds interest to a plain fabric.

7. Slot seam:
A slot seam is desirable when a strip of fabric in a matching or contrasting colour is added to the garment. This also adds a little bit of ‘spice’ to an otherwise plain seam.

8. Flat-felled seam:
A flat felled seam provides a neat attractive finish to both sides of the garment. This type of seam is usually used for support clothes and reversible garments French seam is a “seam within a seam” and can be used on sheer fabrics or lingerie. It is not recommended for curved seams.

9. Corded seam:
A carded seam is a decorative seam or edge can be used as a design feature on a garment.

10. Curved seam: 
A curved seam, in most cases, creates the style line of the garment, such as on princess seams, bodice yokes or skirt yokes.

11. Right-angle seam or corner turns:
A seam with a corner turn is usually featured in a style line. The sewing method used to turn a corner can be applied to any angular seam found on many parts of the garment.

Seams on knitted fabrics require speciality stitches to insure the stitch to insure the stitch remains permanent. The important characteristics o f a knitted fabric is its capacity to change its dimensions through stretching. The amount and direction of stretch varies according to the knitting process used to construct the wide variety of knit fabrics available on the marker.

Preparing the sewing machine for sewing knits: 
Use a ball point sewing machine needle and nylon or 100% polyester thread. The rounded tip of the ball point needle separates rather than punctures the fibers during the stitching process.

Stretch and Hold:
When sewing knits hold the seams on one end and stretch the other end. This stretches the fabric in the same manner as it will stretch when the garment is work. On most knits use a straight stitch with nylon or polyester thread and apply the stretch and hold technique.

The following special stitches strengthen seams on knit fabrics:

1. Zigzag seam:
A single very narrow zigzag stitch may be used. However, the seams will not lay flat after it is pressed.

2. Straight stitch with zigzag stitch:
A straight stitch (using the stretch and hold technique) along the stitch line and a zigzag stitch on the seam allowance side next to the straight stitch allows the seam to lay flat.

3. Automated stretch stitch:
Some sewing machines have a built in stitch for knit fabrics and may be used in lieu of the zigzag stitch. This stitch usually consists of two stitches forward and one stitch backwards, repeated along the stitch live.

4. Reinforced Tapped seam:
This is sometimes necessary to control the stretching of some seams, such as armholes and necklines. Match the colour of the seam binding to the colour of the fabric and add to the seam during the sewing process.

On the wrong side of the fabric, pin baste seam binding to the stitch line of the seam. For an armhole of the garment when setting the sleeve. Follow the same technique for any other seam requiring additional reinforcement.

Fabrics used for fashionable garments:
Fine quality oxford cotton, linen, chiffon, polyester medium and heavy weight fabrics, cheer fabric, transparent fabric, Mysore silk famous for its light weight with more drape ability, Kanchipuram silk with light to medium weight fabric, Georgette, Knitted fabric single Jersey, Double Jersey.

Sewing threads, Cotton, Polyester, synthetic with 3 ply yarn to be used for general sewing applications. 2 ply yarns are to be used for 3 threads over lock machine.

Sewing Needles:
Ball point needles, wedge point needles usually 11,12,14 numbers are to be used to avoid damage caused by the sewing needles while sewing.


  • Invisible zippers are likely to be used for fastening purpose.
  • Press-stud button, Hook and Eye, Velcro mop buttons are to be used for fashionable garments.
  • Lining, Interlining, fusible inter lining with light weight and medium weight materials are to be used to enhance the aesthetic look of the Fashion garments appearance.


  1. A Guide to Fashion Sewing-Connie Amaden-Crawford.

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