What is Mohair / Angora Fiber?
Mohair is another specialty fiber that comes from the Angora goat found in Tibet. Mohair fibers are circular and uniform with scales that appear to have a smooth surface and to be flatter on the fiber. The fibers can be up to 30cm in length giving a slight sheen to the fabrics.
Although wool is by far the most important animal fiber, there are a number of hair fibers which are of considerable commercial value. Mohair fibers do not have as many scales as wool fibers, and therefore do not shrink nor felt as freely as wool fibers. Mohair fibers are more lustrous and smoother than wool fibers.
These come mostly from animals of the goat and camel families. The Angora goat, which originated in Turkey, has a coat of long, lustrous hair which provides the textile fiber known as mohair. Much of the world’s production of mohair is in Tibet, Turkey, South Africa and the U.S.A.
Until early in the nineteenth century, Turkey was almost the sole producer of mohair. As the manufacture of textiles expanded during the period of the Industrial Revolution, efforts were made to raise the Angora goat in other parts of the world. Mohair production established itself in South Africa and in certain parts of the U.S., notably Texas and California towards the end of the nineteenth century. Today South Africa and the United States are the largest mohair producers, with the majority of American mohair being produced in Texas. The hair is long, brightly lustrous and relatively thick and stiff. The undercoat is particularly finer and therefore particularly coveted for the use in garments manufacture where it finds varied applications, very often in blends with wool.
Mohair is also known as angora. Mohair is got from angora goat and angora rabbit.
- The hair of the Angora goat: The long, fine fibers are so smooth and soft that they must be combined with other fibers in weaving.
- The hair of the Angora rabbit: The fine, lightweight hair is warm, and it is often blended with wool to decrease price and to obtain novelty effects in weaving. By law, the fiber must be described as Angora rabbit hair.
Characteristics of Mohair Fiber:
Mohair is composed of keratin similar to wool. It is resilient, dust repellant, absorbent, lustrous and silky. It is also antiwrinkle, flame resistant, moth and mildew proof and gives warmth. The fiber is used in making carpets, sweaters, coats, home furnishings, doll wigs, etc. Characteristics and Properties of mohair fiber is given below.
- Long, lustrous, silky and strong fiber (due to the length of the staple fibers)
- Luxurious
- Soft hand
- Most resilient natural textile fiber
- Lightweight, warms, good insulator
- Dyes well, brilliant colors
- Elastic (up to 30%)
- Good drape
- Non-crush, -mat and -pill qualities
- Resists fading
- Receptive to Dyes to produce rich color
- Absorbent but also releases moisture readily, making it ideal for summer as it will release perspiration
- Shrink-Resistant and Felt-Resistant as there are fewer scales
Properties of Mohair Fiber:
| Properties | Mohair |
| Tenacity | 11.8-12.8 cN/tex (12-13 g/tex) |
| Elongation | 30% |
| Elastic recovery from | |
| 50% breaking load | 0.8 |
| 50% breaking extension | 0.6 |
| Specific gravity | 1.32 |
| Moisture regain | 13% |
| Effect of sunlight, chemicals, solvent, insects, microorganisms | Similar to wool |
| Cross-section appearance |  |
| Microscopic appearance |  |
Manufacturing of Mohair:
- Shearing: Removing fur from animal body. Angora goat can be clipped twice in a year. One goat may give 1.8–2.4 kg (4–5 lb) mohair per clipping. As in the case of wool, the quality of the fiber varies, depending on its source under which it lived. The fleece is graded into tight lock, flat lock and fluffy types. Tight lock is characterized by its ringlets and is usually very fine. Flat lock is wavy and of medium quality and fluffy or open fleece is of the lowest grade. The dead fibers and dull ones in the fleece are called kemps, much the same as in the case of wool.
- Scouring: Treating fiber with detergents
- Dehaired: Separating coarse and soft hair
- Spinning
Uses of Mohair:
Mohair is characterized by its remarkable resistance to wear. Mohair fabrics are therefore used wherever durability is the first essential. Upholstery in public vehicles, car hoods, etc., are often made from mohair where resistance to wear and tear can be combined with attractiveness.
In combination with wool, mohair is often used for summer suitings. Mohair dyes well and has a beautiful natural lustre. It is made into all manner of dress materials, plusher and astrakhans. Mohair is attacked by moths and should be protected in the same way as wool. It felts to a lesser extent than wool. Uses of mohair fiber is given below:
- Apparel: Coats, suits, dresses, scarves, sweaters, jumpers, accessories, loungewear, socks.
- Home Fashion: Interiors such as throws, blankets, upholstery, draperies, carpets, rugs.
References:
- Handbook of Textile Fibres: Natural Fibres by J. Gordon Cook
- Textile Fiber Microscopy: A Practical Approach By Ivana Markova
- Fibres to Fabrics by Bev Ashford
- The Substrates – Fibres, Yarn and Fabric by Mathews Kolanjikombil
Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. He is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.
