Identification of End (Warp) and Pick (Weft) of Fabric

Last Updated on 11/09/2024

Introduction:
End (warp) and Pick (weft) are important components in woven fabric, and they refer to the warp and weft yarns, respectively. Warp and weft yarns have different demands placed on them and may differ in their structure or fiber type. Thus, a fabric may not have the same performance characteristics for warp and weft. The warp must withstand the high tensions of the loom and the abrasion of weaving, so the warp yarns are stronger and more uniform with higher twist. Filling yarns are more often fancy or special-function yarns such as high-twist crepe yarns, low-twist napping yarns, or boucle yarns. We can define end and pick in the following way.

end and pick identification

The objective of identification end and pick is to identify the construction of a fabric, the count of the yarn being used, and fabric weight. It helps to reproduce a proposed fabric and to evaluate the fabric’s properties.

Yarns have different name before weaving and after weaving. Until the yarns are woven into a fabric or going to be used in weaving, yarns are called yarns and threads. The yarns can be single-ply yarn, plied yarn, spun yarn, filament yarn, etc. Once the fabric is formed, the same yarn is called an either warp or weft.

What is End (Warp):
Warp or end is a yarn in woven fabric that is drawn parallel to the fabric selvage.

We can define end in following way:

  1. End is an individual warp yarn. A warp is composed of a number of ends.
  2. An individual sliver, slubbing, roving, yarn, thread, or cord.
  3. A short length or remnant of fabric.

Ends are typically stronger and more tightly twisted. End has less visible slubs or irregularities compared to weft because it is sized.

What is Pick (Weft):
Pick or Weft yarn in woven fabrics that lies horizontally in the fabric and perpendicular to warp yarns (fabric selvage). In a woven fabric, the yarn running from selvage to selvage at right angles to the warp. Each crosswise length is called a pick. Pick yarn is passed over and under the warp yarn by a shuttle. In the weaving process, the filling yarn is carried by the shuttle or other type of yarn carrier. The picks interlace with the warp ends to form a woven fabric.

Picks are usually softer and more loosely twisted compared to ends.

Identification of End (Warp) and Pick (Weft) of Fabric: 
For cutting garment components from a woven fabric, we often need to identify fabric grain (warp direction). Even there are other reasons one needs to identify the warp and weft yarn in a piece of fabric. The fall of the fabric is better in clothes in the warp direction.

For counting EPI (End Per Inch) and PPI (Pick Per Inch) using a pick glass one first needs to identify the warp and weft yarn.

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Differentiating between end (warp) and pick (weft) is possible by carefully examining both the fabric and the length-wise and crosswise yarns.

  1. Most fabrics have lower elongation in the warp direction.
  2. Ends usually have higher tensile strength than picks.
  3. The warp yarns lie straighter and are more parallel in the fabric because of loom tension.
  4. Warp yarns often have a higher twist than weft yarns.
  5. Fancy or special-function yarns are usually in the filling direction.
  6. Fabric crimp is usually greater for weft yarns since they must bend or flex over or under warp yarns due to the way the loom operates.
  7. Fabric characteristics may differentiate between the warp and weft directions. For example, poplin has a weft rib and satin has warp floats.
  8. Warp yarns have a higher thread count than weft yarns.
  9. The selvedge always runs in the lengthwise (warp) direction of all fabrics.
  10. Pilling is more common in the weft direction.
  11. Warp yarns tend to be smaller, are more uniform in structure and appearance, and have higher twist.
  12. The number of EPI (End Per Inch) is typically higher than the number of PPI (Pick Per Inch).

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