Effect of Enzyme Wash on Denim Garments

Effect of Enzyme Wash on Denim Garments

Md. Toriqul Islam¹, Md. Dulat Ali & Md. Ariful Islam
Department of Textile Engineering
Northern University Bangladesh
Email: toriqulislam18@gmail.com¹

Abstract
In this study, it has been observed different enzyme effect on denim garments. Wash chemical and mechanical effect like enzyme wash, stone wash, stone free wash. acid enzyme wash. Every wash shows different effect. Denim fabric are made with indigo dyeing, when the indigo color out from the fabric they creates different effect. Actually effects or shade depend on chemical function. By changing chemical, chemical, time, and process garments creates different effect and change their shade. In this investigation, showed different wash effect by change chemical ratio, time and process. Also compared three different shades and every process shows different outlook of garments.

CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION

1.1 Introduction:
Denim – one of the world’s oldest fabrics – is most commonly associated with jeans. Today, denim jeans are one of the most popular clothing items, which are loved by many people around the globe regardless of the gender, culture, climate conditions, seasons, and social occasions. It consists of dyed warp and grey weft. Most of the Denim fabric construction is either 2/1 or 3/1 construction of either left or right handed twill. Denim is especially strong, stiff and hard wearing cloth. Denim garment (Jeans) washing is one of the commonly used finishing methods to create special look, making stylish and wear comfortable garments of the present day world. Without finishing treatments, denim garment is uncomfortable to wear, due to its weaving and dyeing effects. For this it basically needs a finishing treatment to make it softer, smooth and comfortable to wear performance. To meet rapid change in demands of customers, technologists are trying to impart new designs and fashion on denim garments by means of different types of washing methods. The most commonly used denim washing methods are enzyme wash, bleach wash, acid wash, normal wash, stone wash, etc.

The objective present study is to study effect of different amount of enzyme wash on tensile strength, stiffness of denim fabric. Weaving and dyeing effects make denim garments uncomfortable to wear. The manufacturing process of denim involved dyeing of the surface of the warp yarn and the core stays white. Denim fabrics are with high density and high mass per unit area also hard to wear (S. Belal, 2009; M. Z. Hasan et al.2017). That’s why uncomfortable denim garments need a finishing treatment to make it soft and smooth which increases wearer’s comfort. One of the most widely used finishing treatments is washing due to its effects on appearance and comfort (M. Hossain et al.2017; S. Li et al.2008; H. C. Yang et al.2010). Various attempts are made to use chemicals in denim garment washing, such as enzyme wash, bleach wash, acid wash, stone wash etc (M. Z. Hasan et al.2017). To reduce the hardness of fabric, pumice stones are also used in washing of denim fabric. To produce better distressed look during washing, the denim and pumice stones are put together in the washing machine (M.M.R. Khan et al.2012). Hand feel property is increased with increasing time of garment washing (M. M. Khatun et al.2017), where tensile strength is decreased, stone and enzyme wash of garments increase color fading, softness and water absorption. Cracked and hairy fiber surface are visible on scanning electron micrograph and fluorescence microscopy analysis which results strength losses and soft-hand feel of denim garments (M. I. H. Mondal et al.2016; M. M. R. Khan et al.2012).

Enzyme washing is a process involving the use of enzyme to produce soft, comfort, luster and fade effect on denim fabric. The surface cellulose fibers of the denim fabric are broken down by enzymes and removes during washing. During enzyme washing, certain amount of indigo dye and cellulose fibers from the surface of the fabric are removed (H. A. El-Dessouki, 2015; D. Arjun et al.2013). Enzymatic method is also eco-friendly but it decays cellulose chains, forming shorter chain cellulose polymers and lower its mechanical strength severely (M. Z. Hasan et al. 2017).Enzyme has difficulties to achieve different irregular effect on the garments which can be obtained easily by using stone. Garments and machine may be harmed by using only stone, so using enzyme with the stone can reduce harm to the garments and machine and bring the desired effect quickly (J. Sarkar et al.2014). Tensile strength, seam strength and weight loss of fabric biochemical reaction. The enzymes under a chemical point of view is their high specificity or in other words, their ability to attack selectively a given substrate.

The action of enzyme during enzyme wash is to hydrolyze the cellulose, at first it attacks the having projecting fiber and hydrolyzed them. Then it attacks the yarn portion inside fabric and partly hydrolyzed the yarn portion and faded effect is produced.

Textile Enzymes called “Aurum”. Enzymes (Greek for “in the cell” formerly also called ferments) are biologically the most important group of proteins. Aurum PC Enzyme is a substance produced by a living organism which acts as a catalyst to bring about a specific enzyme is used in washing technology.

1.2 Objects of Enzyme Wash:

• To remove the starch present on the garments.
• To remove the size material from the garments.
• For soft feeling to wear the garments.
• For increasing the color fastness and rubbing fastness.
• To improve the anti-pilling properties.
• To achieve a very smooth surface of the garments.

1.3 Flow Chart of Enzyme Washing:

Loading of garments

↓

De-sizing

↓

Rinse (Two times)

↓

Addition of enzyme

↓

Adjusting pH for Acid Cellulose or enzyme (4.5-5.5) by adding Acetic acid (CH₃COOH).

↓

The required temperature kept for different enzyme

↓

Tumbling for 30-60 minutes (depending on shade)

↓

Rinse (two times)

↓

Softening

↓

Extracting

CHAPTER TWO
LITERATURE REVIEW

2.1 Previous relevant works:
Rinse wash is done to remove all the sizing ingredients present on the surface of the fabric and to make the fabric more absorbent. This treatment was conducted in liquor containing wet agent, anti-back stiner and lubricant and material to liquor ratio of 1:5 in a washing machine at 50^oC for 20 minutes. Then fabric is washed with hot water followed by cold water wash.

2.2 Enzyme wash:
Desized denim fabric was treated with bio-polishing cellulase enzyme. This process was conducted in liquor containing acetic acid to maintain required pH of 4.5. The enzyme treatment was carried at different amount of cellulose enzyme (50gm, 100gm and 150gm), temperature of 40-60^oC and treatment time of 40-50 minute. The denim fabric is then washed and softened with cationic softener at cold for 10-15 minute. Enzyme treated fabric was squeezed in a hydro extractor machine to remove excess water and then dried in a drier for 30-45 minute. Enzyme washed denim fabric was tested for tensile strength, tearing strength, stiffness and drapeability.

2.3 Testing and Analysis:
Treated fabric was conditioned at 65 % RH and at 20^oC for 24 hours before testing. Tensile strength was determined by the US Standard Grab test method according to ASTM D 5034. Stiffness was measured from the bending stiffness in fabric by Shirley stiffness tester according to ASTM D 1388. Changes in the original color shade of the fabric was rated using Grey scale for color change according to AATCC evaluation procedure. Fabric drapeability is also measured according to BS5058.

2.4 Results and Discussions:
The tensile strength, stiffness, drape and change in color shade properties of enzyme treated with different amount of enzyme was measured. Results obtained are shown in below section.

CHAPTER THREE
MATERIALS AND METHODS

3.1 Materials
Following materials are used for this research:

• Fabric
• Stone
• Chemicals

3.2 Specification of Fabric
Two samples of fabrics are collected from Mahmud denim of below specific Leg panels are produced for this experiment.

Table 1: Description of the fabric samples

3.3 Chemicals

Table 3.2: Chemicals

3.4 Apparatus

• Beaker
• Stirrer
• Conical Flux
• Measuring Cylinder
• pH Meter
• Electric Balance
• Padding Mangle
• Washing m/c
• Hydro m/c
• Drying Machine
• Curing Machin

3.5 Enzyme Recipe:

3.5.1 Neutral Enzyme

Table No: 3.3: Neutral Enzyme Recipe

3.5.2 Acid Enzyme Recipe:

Table No: 3.4: Acid Enzyme Recipe

3.5.3 Stone Enzyme Recipe:

Table No: 3.5: Stone Enzyme Recipe

3.5.4 Stone Free Enzyme Recipe:

Table No: 3.5: Stone Free Enzyme Recipe

3.6 Color Fastness to Washing:
Color fatness to washing means, a specimen of the textile, in contact with one or two specified adjacent fabrics, is mechanically agitated under described conditions of time and temperature in a soap solution, then rinsed and dried. The change in color of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabric are assessed with the greyscales.

In my personal experience, in case of fastness test color fastness to washing is the first and most important requirements of buyers. There are a number of ISO test for color fastness to washing.[12]

Instruments:

• Gyrowash / Rotawash Color Fastness Tester
• Stainless StillBall
• Multi-fiberfabric
• Greyscale
• Sewingmachine
• Thermometer
• Cylinder

Recipe:

• ECE phosphate reference detergent (B) 4 gm./liter
• Sodium Perborate 1 gm/liter

Sample Preparation:

• Sample Fabric  —– 100mm*4mm
• Multifiber fabric ——– 100mm*40mm

3.7 Working Procedure:
Collecting the sample and then conditioning for 06 hours. Making a specimen of 04 cm x 10 cm in size. Sewing the specimen with multi-fiber fabric of same size at one corner. Making the solution of 4gm/liter ECE (B) detergent and 1 gm/liter sodium perborate). Putting the specimen with multi-fiber fabric into the solution in Gyrowash m/c Prog. A2S Temp.: / 40OC Time: 30 min Still ball: 10 pcs. Rinsing with hot water respectively. Squeezing with cold water of the sample is done (Hand Wash). Then drying is done at a temperature in the air not exceeding 60°C The stitching is then broken out except on one of the shorter end.

Measuring the staining and color change by grey scale and make a test report.[12]

For ISO 105 C06(A2S):

• Total solution (changeable) ………150ml
• Number of Stainless steel Ball    10 (for hitting)
• Time ……………………………………………… 30min 4.
• Temperature ……………………………….. 40^oC

For ISO 105 C06(B2S):

• Total solution (changeable)    ——    150ml
• Number of Stainless Steel Ball   —- 25 (for hitting)
• Time    ——————————–30min
• Temperature   ———————— 50^oC

For ISO 105 C06(C2S):

• Total solution (changeable) –  50ml
• Stainless Steel Ball    ——-  25 (for hitting)
• Time   ———————– 30min
• Temperature   ————– 60^oC

3.8 Color Fastness to Water:
The color fastness to water shall be at least level 3-4 (color change and staining). This criterion does not apply to white products, to products that are neither dyed nor printed, to furniture fabrics, curtains or similar textiles intended for interior decoration. A level of 3 is nevertheless allowed when fabrics are both light colored (standard depth < 1/12) and made of silk or of blends with more than 20% silk. This kind of test is specially applied for the sportswear and heavy dresses which are used specially. Normal cloths are also tested by perspiration test. The garments a\which come into contact with the body where water is heavy may suffer serious local discoloration. This test is intended to determine the resistance of color of dyed textile to the action of water. Before knowing about the Color Fastness to water you must have to know about Color Fastness to Wash and Color Fastness to Rubbing. Well, in today’s class you will know about the perspiration matters which effects on Colorfastness.[13]

Purpose and Scope:
This method is used to determine the resistance of the color of textile of all kinds and in all forms to water.

Apparatus:

• Perspiration tester
• Oven, Maintained at 37±2°centigrade
• Multitier test fabric
• Grey scale
• Color matching chamber
• Grade water / Distill Water
• Glass plate or Acrylic resin plate
• Weight 12.5 kPa or 5kg pressure

3.9 Working Procedure:
Where fibers are to be tested, take a mass of the fiber approximately equal to one-half of the combined mass of the adjacent fabrics and either

Place it between a (100 ± 2) mm × (40 ± 2) mm piece of the multifiber fabric and a (100 ± 2) mm × (40 ± 2) mm piece of the non-dyeable fabric and sew them along all four sides.

Layout the composite specimen in a flat bottom dish and cover with grade 3 water at room temperature. Thoroughly wet out approximately liquor ratio 50:1, and allow it for 30 min. Pour off the solution and wipe the excess liquor off the between two glass plate. Place the composite sample between two resin plate under presser of 12.5± 0.9 kpa /5kg, place the test device in oven at temp 37±2ºC for 4 hours

Open out the specimen, dry by hanging in the air not exceeding 60ºC in contact only at the line of stitching.[13]

3.10 Color Fastness to Perspiration:
The color fastness to perspiration (acid and alkaline) shall be at least level 3-4 (color change and staining). This criterion does not apply to white products, to products that are neither dyed nor printed, to furniture fabrics, curtains or similar textiles intended for interior decoration. A level of 3 is nevertheless allowed when fabrics are both light colored (standard depth < 1/12) and made of silk or of blends with more than 20% silk. This kind of test is specially applied for the sportswear and heavy dresses which are used specially. Normal cloths are also tested by perspiration test.

The garments a\which come into contact with the body where perspiration is heavy may suffer serious local discoloration. This test is intended to determine the resistance of color of dyed textile to the action of acidic and alkaline perspiration. Before knowing about the Color Fastness to perspiration you must have to know about Color Fastness to Wash and Color Fastness to Rubbing.

Well, in today’s class you will know about the perspiration matters which effects on Colorfastness.[14]

Reagent for Perspiration Test:

Acid: Solution freshly prepared, containing 0.5g 1-histidine monohydrochloride mono- hydrate, 5g sodium chloride, and 2.2g sodium dihydrogenortho phosphate per liter brought to pH 5.5 with 0.1N sodiumhydroxide.

Alkali: Solution freshly prepared, containing 0.5g 1-histidine monohydrochloride mono- hydrate, 5g sodium chloride, and 2.5g disodium hydrogenortho phosphate per liter brought to pH 8.0 with 0.1N sodiumhydroxide.

3.11 Working Procedure:
Where fibers are to be tested, take a mass of the fiber approximately equal to one half of the combined mass of the adjacent fabrics and either place it between a (100 ± 2) mm × (40 ± 2) mm piece of the multifiber fabric and a (100 ± 2) mm × (40 ± 2) mm piece of the non-dyeable fabric and sew them along all four sides.

Layout the composite specimen in a flat bottom dish and cover with grade 3 water at room temperature. Thoroughly wet out approximately liquor ratio 50:1,and allow it for 30 min. Pour off the solution and wipe the excess liquor off the between two glass plate. Place the composite sample between two resin plate under presser of 12.5±0.9 kpa /5kg,place the test device in oven at temp 37±2ºC for 4 hours.

Open out the specimen, dry by hanging in the air not exceeding 60ºC in contact only at the line of stitching.[14]

3.12 Color Fastness to Rubbing:
There are two test methods for rubbing fastness.

• ISO-105-X12
• AATCC-08

Determining the resistance of the color of textiles of all kinds, including textile floor coverings and other pile fabrics, to rubbing off and staining other materials. A rectangular rubbing surface with the lead edge rounded measuring 19 mm × 25.4 mm (crock block). Downward force of (9 ± 0.2) N, Track length (104 ± 3) mm Diameter of rubbing finger (16 ± 0.1)mm. Two tests may be made, two with a dry rubbing cloth and two with a wet rubbing cloth on both directions. Two pieces not less than (50 × 140)mm are required for dry rubbing and two for wet rubbing. Two pieces not less than (50 × 140)mm are required for dry rubbing and two for wet rubbing. 10 cycle 10 sec, Condition the specimen and rubbing cloth for at least 4h in an atmosphere of (20± 2)^◦C and (65 ± 2)% RH by laying each test specimen and each piece of rubbing cloth

Always Check

• End Use of the product
• Depth of the Color
• Color
• Quality construction

3.13 Principle of Color Fastness to Light:
This test measures the resistance to fading of dyed textile when exposed to day light. The test sample is exposed to light for a certain time which is about 24 hours to 72 hours or by customer/buyer demand and compare the change with original unexposed sample the changes are assessed by Blue Scales.

3.14 Color Fastness to Light with XENOTEXST 150S+ light Fastness Tester:
The testing is done step by step. Following step is maintained during measure the color fatness to light. Cut the four pieces of test specimens according to the length and width wise and attached with the specimen holder, Specimen size not less than 45 mm × 10 mm.

Color temperature of a xenon arc lamp 5500 K to 6500 K. Free of optical or fluorescent brightening agent card use. Mode of operation whereby the specimen holders revolve around the central light source and on alternate rotations the specimen holders are automatically rotated 180° about their vertical axis so that the test specimens face towards the light source only every alternate revolution is flip-flop mode.

Blue wool references developed and produced in Europe are identified by the numerical designation 1 to 8. They range from 1(very low color fastness to light) to 8 (very high color fastness to light) so that each higher-numbered reference is approximately twice as fast as the preceding one.[17]

CHAPTER FOUR
RESULT AND DISCUSSION

4.1 Color Fastness to Washing (Neutral Enzyme Shade):

Method: (ISO 105 C06) (Washing)

Table 4.1: Color Fastness to washing Result

In this research finally it was found that all sample fastness properties was excellent that’s why we can say the color fastness to wash properties is excellent.

4.2 Color Fastness to Water (Neutral Enzyme Shade):

Method: (ISO 105 E01) (Water)

Table 4.2: Color Fastness to water Result

In this research finally it was found that for cotton fabric is Good.

4.3 Color Fastness to Perspiration (Neutral Enzyme Shade):

Method: (ISO 105 E04) (Acid)

Table 4.3: Color Fastness to Perspiration Result

In this research finally it was found that for cotton fabric is fair.

4.4 Color Fastness to Perspiration (Neutral Enzyme Shade):

Method: (ISO 105 E04) (Alkali)

Table 4.4: Color Fastness to Perspiration Result

4.5 Color Fastness to Rubbing (Neutral Enzyme Shade):

Method: (ISO 105-X12) (Rubbing)

Table 4.5: Color Fastness to Rubbing Result

In this research finally it was found that sample color fastness to dry rubbing is good also color fastness to wet rubbing is poor.

4.6 Color Fastness to Washing (Acid Enzyme Shade):

Method: (ISO 105 C06) (Washing)

Table 4.7: Color Fastness to Washing Result

In this research finally it was found that all sample fastness properties was good.

4.7 Color Fastness to Water (Acid Enzyme Shade):

Method: (ISO 105 E01) (Water)

Table 4.8: Color Fastness to water Result

In this research finally it was found that for cotton fabric is good.

4.8 Color Fastness to Perspiration (Acid Enzyme Shade):

Method: (ISO 105 E04) (Acid)

Table 4.9: Color Fastness to Perspiration Result

In this research finally it was found that for cotton fabric is good

4.9 Color Fastness to Perspiration (Acid Enzyme Shade):

Method: (ISO 105 E04) (Alkali)

Table 4.10: Color Fastness to Perspiration Result

In this research finally it was found that for cotton fabric is good.

4.10 Color Fastness to Rubbing (Acid Enzyme Shade):

Method: (ISO 105-X12) (Rubbing)

Table 5.11: Color Fastness to Rubbing Result

In this research finally it was found that color fastness to dry rubbing is very good also color fastness to wet rubbing is fair.

4.11 Color Fastness to Washing (Stone Enzyme Shade):

Method: (ISO 105 C06) (Washing)

Table 4.13: Color Fastness to Washing Result

In this research finally it was found that for cotton fabric is very good.

4.12 Color Fastness to Water (Stone Enzyme Shade):

Method: (ISO 105 E01) (Water)

Table 4.14: Color Fastness to water Result

In this research finally it was found that for cotton fabric is good

4.13 Color Fastness to Perspiration (Stone Enzyme Shade):

Method: (ISO 105 E04) (Acid)

Table 4.15: Color Fastness to Perspiration Result

In this research finally it was found that for cotton fabric is good

4.14 Color Fastness to Perspiration (Stone Enzyme Shade):

Method: (ISO 105 E04) (Alkali)

Table 4.16: Color Fastness to Perspiration Result

In this research finally it was found that for cotton fabric is good

4.15 Color Fastness to Rubbing (Stone Enzyme):

Method: (ISO 105-X12) (Rubbing)

Table 4.17: Color Fastness to Rubbing Result

In this research finally it was found that sample color fastness to dry rubbing is very excellent also color fastness to wet rubbing is moderately Fair.

CHAPTER FIVE
CONCLUSION

5.1 Conclusion:
Nowadays washing of denim garments with different chemicals and other mechanical actions is the most demanding and popular finishing process all over the world. Apart from fancy looks, it’s also responsible to bring many aesthetic and functional properties on denim fabric like softness, comfort and others. From this point of view this research work is conducted. In the concluding part: the overall findings can be mentioned in some points: Prolonged wash are responsible to decrease the physical strength of both samples. GSM decrease with increase time of wash while washing with enzyme and pumice stone. Tear strength is also decreases with the time for both samples in both way (warp and weft). Some variations in chemical test results (i.e. colorfastness to rubbing and perspiration) are found for sample 2. Washing treatments make the rating lower than that of sample 1.As mentioned that sample 2 is dyed with direct dye (Indosol royal blue and black). Direct dyed sample (sample-2) shows less color fastness rating on rubbing and perspiration than indigo dyed sample (sample-1). But the overall result is good.

Metamerism index is greater for sample 2 than sample 1. Color difference between samples increases with time of washing. The color strength K/s values for both sample, desized sample without wash show higher K/s on 400-700nm wave length rather than ten, twenty and thirty minutes wash sample. Consequently, enzyme washed with pumice stone denim become duller and color is faded than the original one.

5.2 Future Development:
We would like to thank the management of the Beximco Denims Ltd. Gazipur for providing us the raw denim fabric samples and Mark washing and Dyeing Ltd., Gazipur for giving us the opportunity to complete our work in their industry. The entire tests were done at Dept. of Textile Engineering, Northern University, Ashkona, Bangladesh. We are grateful to Northern University management to provide technical support to complete this research work.

References:

[1] Arjun, J. Hiranmayee and M. N. Farheen, “Technology of Industrial Denim Washing”, International Journal of Industrial Engineering and Technology (IJIET),Volume 3, Issue 4, ISSN 2277-4769, October, 2013,pp. 25-34.

[2] A. El-Dessouki, “Effect of Different Washing Methods on Mechanical Properties of Egyptian Denim Fabrics”, International Design Journal, Volume 5, Issue 3, p-ISSN: 2090-9632,e-ISSN : 2090-9640, July, 2015, pp. 1099-1107.

[3] C. Yang, W.H. Wang, K. S. Huang and M. H. Hon, “Preparation and application of nano chitosan to finishing treatment with anti-microbial and antishrinking properties”, Carbohydrate Polymers, Volume 79; Issue 1, ISSN: 01448617, January,2010,pp.176-179, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.carbpol.2009.07.045.

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[5] Bhattacharjee, A. K. Dhar, M. M. Islam and M. A. Rashid, “Development of Washing Effects on Reactive Dyed Denim Fabrics: A Value Added Approach of Denim Wash”, International Journal of Textile Science, Volume 8, Issue 2, p ISSN: 2325-0119,e-ISSN:2325-0100,2019,pp.41-48, DOI:10.5923/j.textile.20190802.03.

[6] Hafeezulla , K. N. Ali, W. B. Ying and Z. H. U. Chengyan, “Effect of different types of washing processes on the strength and weight loss of the Denim fabric”, Asia-Africa Science Platform Program on Neo-fiber Technology Seminar Series9, Hangzhou, China, November,2014.

[7] Hossain, M. S. H. Rony, K. M. F. Hasan,M. K. Hossain, M. A. Hossain and Zhou, “Effective Mechanical and Chemical Washing Process in Garment Industries”, American Journal of Applied Physics, Volume 2, Issue 1, May,2017, pp. 1-25.

[8] I. H. Mondal, M. M. R. Khan and M. F. Ahmed; “Physico-Mechanical Properties of Finished Denim Garment by Stone-Enzymatic Treatment”;Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, Volume 10, Issue 1, ISSN: 1533-0915, 2016.

[9] M. Khatun and U. N. Haq; “Effects of Biochemical Wash on 100% Cotton Denim Apparel”, American Journal of Chemical Engineering, Volume 5,Issue 21, ISSN: 2330-8605 (Print);  ISSN: 2330-8613 (Online), March,2017, pp. 6- 14,http://www.sciencepublishinggroup.com/j/ajch e, doi:10.11648/j.ajche.s.2017050201.12.

[10] M. R. Khan , M. I. H. Mondal and M. Z. Uddin, “Sustainable Washing for Denim Garments by Enzymatic Treatment”;Journal of Chemical Engineering, IEB, Vol. ChE 27,No. 1, June 2012, pp. 27-31, DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.3329/jce.v27i1.15854.

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Mazharul Islam Kiron

Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. Mr. Kiron is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.

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