Drafting Details of Mens Vest / Waistcoat
R.S. Balakumar
Associate Professor
Dept of Fashion Design & Arts
Hindustan University, Chennai, India
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com
Men’s Vest / Waistcoat:
Vest or waistcoat a type of body garments from ancient days this garment is used in cold region. In cold region they use to wear two or three garments over the body to control the coolness and to maintain the warmness of the body. In fashion days this garment is also familiar as fashion garments. In this article, I will show technique of mens waistcoat drafting.
It is developed with or without sleeve and collar. Vest with sleeves is worn as a blouse, without sleeve worn over the skirt and worn inside over coat for smart look.
Now days this style is adapted for all seasons the style of vest is varied from length and loose of garments, it is classified under length as above waist level, up to the waist level, below waist level under loose as fitted vest, semifitted vest bolero vest. The vest without sleeve will have a deep armhole. Under we presented the construction and working method for some type of vest.
Measurements Required:
- 16 ¾ “ to waist
- 25” front length
- 36” chest
- 33” waist
Drafting Details of Mens Waistcoat:
1-0 = scye depth is 1/4th chest
2-0 = 16 ¾” waist length
3-0 = 1/4th distance of 1 to 0
4-2 = ½”
5-4 = 1 ¾” square up from 9 to locate 10 and 11
11-10 = ½”; draw the back shoulder seam from 11 to 7, as shown
12-8 = 1/8th chest
13-12 = 1 ½”
13-14 = 1/12th chest +1/2”
15-1 = 1/2 chest
16-15 = 1 ½”
17-16 = 1”. Square up 14 to 18. Draw line from 18-10. On this line make 19 from 18, the same as from 7-11 on the back, less 1/4”
20-19 = ½”
21-13 = 1 ½”
21-22 = ¾”. Draw a line from 20-22 and locate 23 half way along this line.
24-12 = ½” and is ¼” below the chest line.
W-10 = 2 ½”. Shape the armhole from 20 through 22 [hollowing half an inch at 23] and from 11-24, hollowing half an inch at W square down from 15-25 and from 24 to B
A from 4 = ¾”; measure from A-26, half inch waist measure plus 1 ½”.
The amount registered between 25 &26 will be taken at the side seams at point B
27 from B = ¼”
28 from 27 = 2 ½” shape the backside seam from 24 through 27 to 28 as shown.
29-27 is the same as the amount between 25 &26
30 from 29= 2 ¼”. Shape the fore part side seam from 24 through 29 to 30
31-18 = 1/12th chest.
32 is located by applying ½ collar size plus 1 ¾”
Round neck section from 7-0 and 18-32
33-32 = 1 ¾” for the position of stand.
34 from 18 is the full length, less the width of back neck, plus 1” for seams and making up.
35-34 = ¾” shape the front and bottom edges as shown
M from 1 = ½” less than half the distance between 1 &9; square down to N. mark out a dart, suppressing 5/8” between R&S, leaving ¼” gap at N.
Collar:
1-0 = neck/2
2 is middle of 1-0
1-3 = 1”
4-3 = 1 ½”
5-4 = 3/8”
6-0 = 1 ½”
3-5 = 1 ½”
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Hello! I realise this is a longshot as this has not been updated in 5 years, but I’m hoping you can help. I’ve got a waistcoat patter I really like but it needs to be lengthened by about 3/4″-1″. I know how to lengthen patterns in general, but I’m not sure *where* to do this on a waistcoat pattern. It needs to be below the arm hole, but do I use the waistline or need to do it above that? The pattern has pointed ends on both front and back. Simplicity 8023 view A. Thank you!