What Is a Hem Finish?
A neat hem is one of the first things people notice on a garment. It affects how the piece looks, how it hangs, and how well the lower edge holds up in wear and washing. In garment construction, hems may be turned to the back or inside of the garment, made on the face of the garment as a decorative finish, or left unturned and finished with a decorative stitch pattern. The right hem finish depends on the fabric, the garment style, and the method of production.
Hems are the finished lower edges of garments that prevent raw edges of material from fraying or tearing. A hemline is the designated line along which the hem is to be folded, faced, or finished. Hems may be stitched, held in place, or finished with bonding agents. Bonding agents expedite garment construction by replacing machine stitching. Different stitches are designed to duplicate the stitch pattern and appearance of handwork. Blind stitching may be done in a variety of stitch configurations not visible on the face of the garment. Machine-stitched hems may be made to show on the face of the garment for functional or decorative purposes.
Hem type or finish selection depends on:
- Fabric type and finish
- Fabric weight and hand
- Garment, style, and design
- Garment type
- Garment care
- Current methods of production and manufacturing
20 Types of Hem Finishes in Garments
A. Stitch-Based Hem Finishes
Blind-Stitched Hem
A folded hem secured by a series of interlocking loop stitches that are not visible on the face of the garment. The type of blind-stitch machine used is determined by the type of fabric, placement of the hem, use of the garment, type of thread, and count of loop stitch required. Blind-stitched hems are applied between the bottom edges of the fabric and the garment ply. They can be applied with or without a tape or binding.
Book Hem
Raw edge folded under and secured to the garment ply by concealed blind stitches. Stitches may be made with thermoplastic thread, which bonds the hem to the garment when activated by heat, steam, or pressure. Book hems finish the bottom edges of unlined dresses, skirts, trousers, jackets, and coats. These are selected for garments where exposed stitches would detract from the appearance of the garment or raw edges would be subject to abrasion.
Double-Stitched Hem
Two rows of machine hemming stitches, one row applied midway along the hem depth and the other along the upper edge. Double-stitched hems provide security to an edge finish so it will not fall out if one row of stitching is broken. They are ideal on bulky and heavyweight fabrics and can hold a weighted hem.
Edge-Stitched Hem
Straight-grain hem in which the initial raw edge is turned under, ¼ inch (6.4 mm), and machine-stitched prior to final hemming. Edge stitched hems
- Prevent the edge from raveling
- Provide body to a limp hem
- Produce a strong edged finish for machine-washable garments
Flat Hem (Plain Hem or Turned Flat Hem)
Blind hem produced by a turned-up fold with an unfinished edge void of visible stitching on the face of the garment. Flat hems produce a hemline free of bulk and ridges. This hem requires fabrics that will not unravel.
Machine-Stitched Hem
Hem held in place by means of one or more parallel rows of machine stitching, penetrating all plies, and visible on the face of the fabric. Machine-stitched hems are found on garments subjected to increased wear and frequent washings such as work and play clothes. This type of hem produces a flat finish to the edge of garments made from firmly woven or bulky fabrics.
Over-Edged Hem
Clean finish on a raw edge by means of interlocking thread loops. Over-edged hems
- Create an edge finish to an unturned raw edge
- Prevent edges from raveling
- Produce a lettuce edge finish on knit and stretch fabrics
Rolled Hem
A narrow double-folded hem, 1/8 inch (0.2 mm) depth, in which the raw edge is fed through an attachment to complete the folding and stitching in one operation. Rolled hems provide a narrow, lightweight edge finish on very full garments made of sheer and lightweight fabrics.
B. Applied Hem Finishes
Band Hem
A shaped, bias, or straight-grain double-ply strip of fabric, folded or seamed, applied to a garment edge. A band may be applied to enclose the garment ply in order to produce a clean finish. Band hems may introduce color or textural contrast to a garment edge or increase the length of a garment.
Bonded Hem
Strip of bonding agent placed between the fold of the hem and the garment and fused with heat. Bonded hems are suitable for woven and knit fabrics. Bonding strip is available in a variety of widths: ¾, 1½, 5, and 18 inches (1.9, 3.8, 12.7, and 45.7 cm). Bonded hems provide a smooth look where any stitch would detract from the appearance of the garment or where hem stitches would show.
Bound Hem (Hong Kong Finish or Welt Finished Edge)
Bias strip of self or contrast fabric applied to conceal and bind the raw hem edge. Bound hems are applied as a decorative detail or when a flat hem finish is desired on garments made from thick material, which may fray.
Faced Hem
Clean-finished hem produced on a shaped edge by stitching a similarly formed section of fabric on the face of the garment and then reversing the piece to the inside. Faced hems
- Maintain a curved edge
- Reduce bulk on garments made of heavy fabrics
- Provide support and maintain the shape of scalloped edges
- Lengthen a hemline
Double-Fold Hem
Straight-grain edge finish characterized by two full hem-depth folds to add weight and body to the lower edge of the garment. Double-fold hems are common with transparent and lightweight fabrics where the garment needs a deeper, heavier hem. They provide durability when applied to rugged wearing apparel that is laundered frequently.
Glued Hem
A turned-up fold with an unfinished edge glued to the body of the garment. Glued hems are applied to garments made from leather, suede, and other skins, as well as felt and other matted fabrics where machine stitching is undesirable.
Mitered Hem
Hem that in turning a corner is seamed at an angle bisecting that corner. Mitered hems
- Eliminate bulk at corners
- Achieve a flat look at corners or points
- Square the corner of faced and other hems
- Produce a continuous fitted look when a band or trimming is placed on the outside hem area of garments; form smooth, finished corners in slashed designs
C. Structured Hem Finishes
Horsehair Hem
A stiff, transparent woven bias braid with a heavy thread along one edge to facilitate shaping is placed between the fold of the hem and the garment. Horsehair adds body to the hem, producing a billowing effect at the lower edge, and allows for controlled fullness. Horsehair hems may
- Provide flare on lower edges of sleeves, wide collars, capes, dresses, and gowns
- Shape bouffant silhouettes created in lightweight or sheer fabrics
- Stabilize the hem in heavy fabrics
Interlined Hem (Interfaced Hem)
An additional strip of reinforcement for shape retention placed between the fold of the hem and the garment. Interlined hems
- Add body and crispness
- Prevent softening and wrinkling
- Act as a base for the hem
- Alter the silhouette of the garment hemline
Padded Hem
A piece of thick, soft fabric inserted between the hem and the garment. The additional piece typically extends beyond the hem area ¼ inch (6.4 mm) to ½ inch (12.7 mm) and is doubled at the hem fold to provide a soft hemline. Padded hems
- Prevent a sharp crease on hem folds
- Eliminate ridges on hems of heavy fabrics
- Produce roundness to lower edges
- Add weight and body
Weighted Hem
A metal chain (in assorted lengths, widths, and metals), a square or round lead disk (maybe covered in fabric), or lead pellets (uncovered or encased in fabric) are added or attached to the inside of the hem portion of the finished garment. Weighted hems
- Control the drape of the hem
- Help the hem fall evenly
- Keep the hem straight
- Hold the hem detail in place
- Prevent the hem areas from shifting or riding up on the body
- Add body to the hem of lightweight fabrics
This type of hem is common on the lower edge of pleats and slashed openings and on the front corner of hems and facings of coats and jackets.
Wired Hem
Plastic monofilament or wire placed into the fold of a narrow hem to produce a stiffened edge. Wired hems
- Add body to hem areas without weight
- Billow or stand out
- Create structural detail to ruffles and trimmings
- Produce a lettuce edge on sheer and lightweight fabrics
Conclusion
Hem finishes are more than a finishing detail, because they affect appearance, durability, and the way a garment holds its shape. Some hems are selected for a clean look, while others are chosen to add body, support, or decorative contrast. The best choice depends on fabric type and finish, fabric weight and hand, garment style and type, garment care, and current methods of production and manufacturing. In practice, a well-chosen hem finish helps the garment look complete and perform better over time.
Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. Mr. Kiron is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor to Wikipedia.
