Mrinmoye Biswas
Dept. of Fashion Design
KCC Women’s College
(Affiliated by Khulna University),
Khulna, Bangladesh
Zipper:
A zipper is a fastening device which makes a complete closure by means of interlocking teeth or ceils. It is an important type of trims in apparel manufacturing. Zippers are normally used to make permanent and semipermanent connections between the garment panels and joints that could be unfastened and fastened. They are purely functional as well as decorative sometimes. There are different types of zippers and various methods of application. Types of zippers based on construction; such as Coil zippers, Invisible zippers, Metallic zippers, Plastic moulded zippers etc. Types of zippers based on materials; such as Polyester zippers, Moulded zippers, Innovative zippers etc.
Fig: Zipper
Application Methods of Different Types of Zippers The types, length and application methods for zippers selected depend on:
Style and design of garment.
Type and use of garment.
Construction of garment.
Care of garment.
Type and weight of fabric.
Compatibility with fabric and garment.
Type of opening.
1. Closed End Zipper / Dress Zipper Application:
A conventional or regulation, metal or synthetic zipper, 2 to 14 inches (5.1 to 35 cm) in length, closed at both ends by a metal or plastic bar spanning both tracks of teeth or coils.
Fig: Closed End Zipper
In a garment seam which is closed at both ends of placket opening.
On garment fitted at the waistline.
At the underarm or extending back seam of dresses.
Where an opening extending into the neckline would detract from the appearance of the garment.
In pocket openings for functional or decorative design.
Center or lapped zipper application construction method may be used.
2. Conventional Zipper / Regulation Zipper / Skirt or Neckline Zipper: A regulation or conventional chain-or coil-constructed zipper, 4 to 36 inches (10 to 90 cm) in length, closed at one end by a bar spanning both tracks of teeth or coil.
Fig: Conventional Zipper
On skirt and neckline openings trousers, slacks and pants.
On bodices that open from the waistline upward.
On the finished edge of fitted sleeves.
On center seam of hood to convert hood to collar.
For underarm dress opening, long-sleeve opening.
3. Decorative Zipper / Industrial Zipper:
A zipper with a large metal or plastic tooth size and a pull tab.
Fig: Decorative Zipper
As a design detail.
As a exaggerated functional closure.
As a novelty touch to garments.
In contrasting color to emphasize design feeling.
To enhance look of a garment.
4. Reversible Zipper:
A zipper constructed with a pull tab on both side of the slide.
Fig: Reversible Zipper
On reversible coats, jackets, and vests.
On skirts tops and other garments that are designed to be worn with either side face out.
Available in conventional and separating types.
5. Trouser Zipper:
A regulation or conventional metal zipper, of 6, 9, or 11 inches (15.2, 22.9 or 28 cm) in length, closed at one end with metal bar spanning both tracks of teeth.
Fig: Trouser Zipper
On dungarees, jeans and overalls.
On men s trousers and slacks.
Where a heavyweight zipper with strong teeth is necessary.
Slider has special bar support to withstand frequent laundering. Zipper is designed with wide tapes allowing for double stitching.
6. Two- Way Zipper / Dual Opening Zipper:
A separating zipper constructed with two identical vertical bar strips, slides and pockets at the top and bottom of the zipper teeth or coil, insertion of the bars into their slides and pockets, locks and enables the zipper to be closed from either or both ends.
Fig: Two-way Zipper
On snowsuits, jackets and pants, ski wear and sportswear.
On children s clothing to facilitate dressing.
On closures in garments made for the handicapped.
7. Hand- Stitched Zipper Application:
A centered, lapped or concealed fly- front zipper application which utilizes a modified back or prick stitch to produce event spaced stitched, spanning a few threads, visible on the face of the garment.
Fig: Hand- Stitch Zipper Application
On garments not subject to hard ware or laundering.
On sheer or lightweight fabrics.
On loosely woven, stretch or knit fabrics.
On couture garments.
On garments where machine stitching would detract from the appearance of the garment.
8. Machine-Stitched Zipper Application:
A centered, lapped or fly- front zipper application utilizing a regular or standard lockstitch or chainstitch machine to produce stitches visible on the face of the garment.
Fig: Machine- Stitch Zipper Application
On garments subject to hard ware.
On trousers, jeans and overalls.
On active sports clothes.
On sportswear garments.
9. Dress Placket Zipper Insertion / Side Seam Zipper Insertion:
A zipper applied in a garment seam which is closed at both ends of the placket or opening.
Fig: Dress Placket Zipper
On garments fitted at the waistline.
At the underarm or center back seam of dresses.
Where an opening extending into the neckline would detract from the design concept.
Centered, lapped or invisible zipper insertion construction methods may be used.
10. Trouser Fly Zipper Insertion:
A zipper insertion in which one side of the zipper tape is double stitched to a facing which is then turned back and stitched 11/2 inch (3.8 cm) form the folded edge, thereby producing a lap concealing the other half of the zipper which is stitched to an underlay extending beyond the center front line.
Fig: Trouser Fly Zipper
On men s and boy s trousers.
On dungarees.
On women s trousers to imitate men s wear design.
11. Zipper with Underlay:
A strip of self- fabric or ribbon applied behind the zipper chain on the ply closest to the body.
Fig: Zipper with Underlay
To protect the undergarment and body from the zipper teeth.
To support the belt which overlaps the closing.
As a guard for the zipper.
12. Left or Right Adjustable Zipper Foot:
A single toed, rigid presser foot notched on both side to accommodate the needle for left or right construction operation designed with a shank fixed to an adjustable, horizontal slide bar.
Fig: Left or Right Adjustable Zipper Foot
To permit sewing closed to the raised edge of zipper teeth or coil.
To permit sewing both sides of a zipper construction in the same direction.
For centered, lapped or fly- front zipper insertion.
Designed for a specific type and class of home sewing machine.
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