Noor Ahmed Raaz
Faculty Member, Dept. of Textile Engineering,
Atish Dipankar University of Science & Technology
Email: raju.uttara105@gmail.com
What is Fusible Interlining?
To retain the shapes of various garment panels, a type of fabric secured between the two ply of fabric in a garment by means of fusing or sewing is known as interlining. In general, interlinings are soft, flexible and thick. They are made of cotton, polyester, nylon, wool and viscose. Interlining materials are generally used in collar, waist band, cuffs, jackets, outerwear plackets, blazers, etc.
There are various types of interlining. In case of fusible interlining, the interlining material is kept between fabric layers and are attached to them through fusing by applying pressure and heat for a particular temperature and time period. In this system, the base component fabric is coated on one side with a thermoplastic resin, which is then bonded to another fabric by means of application of heat and pressure
Methods of Resin Coating:
Resin as a coating material is applied on the base fabric by different methods. Methods of resin coating affect the properties of fusible interlining, which are described below:
1. Scatter coating: Resin is sprayed on the base fabric by a spray head. Then temperature and pressure are used to fix the resin on the base fabric. The molecular size of the resin varies between 150 to 400 microns. Properties of interlining is not all through uniform in this type of coated interlining, hence this type of interlining is cheaper than others.
2. Dry–dot–coating: Powder of resin is applied on the base fabric in dot form by an engraved roller, then the base fabric is passed through an oven, where due to temperature the resin melts and due to pressure of roller the resin sticks on the base fabric. Number of dots per cm may be 3 to 12 and size of resin particles vary from 80 to 200 microns. For fine fabric finer dots and for coarser fabric larger dots are used. Property of this type of interlining is all through uniform.
Fig: Fusible interlining
3. Paste interlining: Resin powder is converted into paste by the use of chemicals and water. Then the paste is printed on the base fabric. Then by applying temperature water and chemicals are evaporated from the base fabric. Very fine dots are produced by printing technique with resin size 1 to 80 microns. Property is all through uniform.
4. Film coating: Resin is first melted by the use of temperature and then applied on the base fabric as a very fine film on one side of the fabric. Polyethylene as a resin is used for film coating. Flexibility of film coated interlining is quite less than others.
5. Emulsion coating: Resin is made as emulsion form with the use of chemicals and water. Then through this emulsion base fabric is passed which picks up emulsion. By the use of a squeeze roller emulsion take up is controlled. Then the fabric is passed through an oven where the interlining is dried. This type of interlining is very hard after fusing.
Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. He is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.
