Melange Yarn: A Different Weaving Culture
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It is known fact that Melange yarns are spun by mixing dyed and undyed fibres with varying degrees, and dyed fibres are remarkably damaged during production, developing deep cracks/saw teeth effects on fibre, resulting decrease in mechanical and physical properties of yarn as under.
1. Increase in % of short fibres
2. Loss of yarn strength
3. Loss of elongation
4. Increased yarn Imperfections
- More thick & Thin places
- Increased Neps
- Increased Yarn Hairiness
It is, therefore, very essential to take intensive care during conversion process of fibre to fabric.
- Care to be taken to avoid additional abrasion on each & every end.
- Unwinding should be smooth (check creel angle & rectify any deviation)
- Optimum warping speed to be determined to avoid end breaks.
- Size recipe to be decided with proper binding quality & viscosity
- Try to make warp surface as soft as possible.
- Size penetration & good coating, added cohesive strength and sustained elongation are very essential.
- Never allow to go warp over dry. Melange warp due high imperfections is very sensitive to moisture. It is, therefore, suggested to avoid over drying during sizing especially during start & finishing of sizing (Doffing of sized beam & Starting of new Beam).
1. Suggested to use following classification chart for correct application as per the count of warp. (General guidelines – applicable for all)
|Eye Size (mm)||Thickness (mm)||Density per inch||Application|
|5.5 * 1.2||0.2||34||40s Ne to 100 Ne|
|5.5 * 1.2||0.25||32||40s Ne to 100 Ne|
|5.5 * 1.2||0.3||30||40s Ne to 100 Ne|
|6.5 * 1.8||0.2||22||Below 40s Ne, till 10s Ne|
|6.5 * 1.8||0.25||21||Below 40s Ne, till 10s Ne|
|6.5 * 1.8||0.3||20||Below 40s Ne, till 10s Ne|
|Height (mm)||Thickness (mm)||Density per inch||Application|
|165||0.2||50||60s Ne & above|
|0.3||35||20s Ne to 50s Ne|
|0.4||25||Below 20 Ne|
2. Melange warp yarn due rough surface feel, it very essential to take intensive care during Weaving – with optimized tuning of tension & related settings along with extra precautions to avoid unnecessary abrasions throughout the warp sheet.
Short info about Ganesh Bijur:
- Technically Qualified, Computer Literate, & Knowledge of QMS Standards
- Total Experience of 29 years in reputed Textile Mills.
- Yarn Dyed Shirting, Home Furnishing, Upholstery & Curtain Fabrics, Terry Towel, Denim & Dress Materials etc. for Domestic & Export Market.
- Cotton, Polyester, Silk, Wool, Viscose, etc. & Blends
- BENNINGER, KARL MAYER, JUPITER, TSUDAKOMA, TOYODA, PICANOL & Other European/Japanese Machineries
- AIRJET, RAPIER, & PROJECTILE Weaving Technology
Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. He is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.