Melange Yarn: A Different Weaving Culture
Ganesh Bijur
Email: gbijur@gmail.com
Cell: +91 75079 74799 / 98603 56526
Melange Yarn
It is known fact that Melange yarns are spun by mixing dyed and undyed fibres with varying degrees, and dyed fibres are remarkably damaged during production, developing deep cracks/saw teeth effects on fibre, resulting decrease in mechanical and physical properties of yarn as under.
1. Increase in % of short fibres
2. Loss of yarn strength
3. Loss of elongation
4. Increased yarn Imperfections
- More thick & Thin places
- Increased Neps
- Increased Yarn Hairiness
It is, therefore, very essential to take intensive care during conversion process of fibre to fabric.
Warping
- Care to be taken to avoid additional abrasion on each & every end.
- Unwinding should be smooth (check creel angle & rectify any deviation)
- Optimum warping speed to be determined to avoid end breaks.
Sizing
- Size recipe to be decided with proper binding quality & viscosity
- Try to make warp surface as soft as possible.
- Size penetration & good coating, added cohesive strength and sustained elongation are very essential.
- Never allow to go warp over dry. Melange warp due high imperfections is very sensitive to moisture. It is, therefore, suggested to avoid over drying during sizing especially during start & finishing of sizing (Doffing of sized beam & Starting of new Beam).
Weaving
1. Suggested to use following classification chart for correct application as per the count of warp. (General guidelines – applicable for all)
Heddle
| Eye Size (mm) | Thickness (mm) | Density per inch | Application |
| 5.5 * 1.2 | 0.2 | 34 | 40s Ne to 100 Ne |
| 5.5 * 1.2 | 0.25 | 32 | 40s Ne to 100 Ne |
| 5.5 * 1.2 | 0.3 | 30 | 40s Ne to 100 Ne |
| 6.5 * 1.8 | 0.2 | 22 | Below 40s Ne, till 10s Ne |
| 6.5 * 1.8 | 0.25 | 21 | Below 40s Ne, till 10s Ne |
| 6.5 * 1.8 | 0.3 | 20 | Below 40s Ne, till 10s Ne |
Drop Pins
| Height (mm) | Thickness (mm) | Density per inch | Application |
| 165 | 0.2 | 50 | 60s Ne & above |
| 0.3 | 35 | 20s Ne to 50s Ne | |
| 0.4 | 25 | Below 20 Ne |
2. Melange warp yarn due rough surface feel, it very essential to take intensive care during Weaving – with optimized tuning of tension & related settings along with extra precautions to avoid unnecessary abrasions throughout the warp sheet.
Short info about Ganesh Bijur:
- Technically Qualified, Computer Literate, & Knowledge of QMS Standards
- Total Experience of 29 years in reputed Textile Mills.
- Yarn Dyed Shirting, Home Furnishing, Upholstery & Curtain Fabrics, Terry Towel, Denim & Dress Materials etc. for Domestic & Export Market.
- Cotton, Polyester, Silk, Wool, Viscose, etc. & Blends
- BENNINGER, KARL MAYER, JUPITER, TSUDAKOMA, TOYODA, PICANOL & Other European/Japanese Machineries
- AIRJET, RAPIER, & PROJECTILE Weaving Technology
Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. Mr. Kiron is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.
