Tareq Salman
Dept. of Textile Engineering
Mawlana Bhashani Science and Technology University
Tangail, Bangladesh
Email: tareqsalman27@gmail.com
What is Embroidery?
Embroidery is the handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials using a needle to apply thread or yarn. Experts believe that this craft made on cloth lasts long and makes the fabric look attractive. This ancient craft holds a rich history, with the same stitches being used by embroiderers worldwide. It serves as a universal language, transcending geographical and historical boundaries.
Fig: Different types of embroidery
Process of Embroidery:
Generally embroidery processes are two types-
Manual or Hand Embroidery: Hand embroidery, also known as manual embroidery, is the traditional art of embellishing fabric using a needle and thread, executed entirely by hand without the use of machines. It is admired for its uniqueness and craftsmanship.
Automatic or Machine or Digital Embroidery: Machine embroidery is a modern technique of creating decorative designs on fabric using a sewing machine or a specialized embroidery machine. Digital embroidery is no longer the domain of large manufacturing companies, stitching large quantities of fabrics for mass production. The wide availability of the automatic computerised embroidery machine, from domestic machines to a range of professional and industrial, and with all major sewing machine companies offering digital embroidery machines and software packages within their range, has resulted in increased competitiveness and more affordable prices. Machine embroidery is widely used for commercial, industrial, and personal projects due to its speed, consistency, and precision.
Needle Size: Mostly three sizes needle are used in embroidery machine.
DB-7 for finer/thin fabric
DB-9 for normal fabric
DB-11 for thick fabric
Needle per packet =10pcs
Types of thread: Polyester, metallic, multicolor, rog, sewing thread, silk, wool, cotton. Types of Lining: Mesh, heat soluble, water soluble, 1035, 1025, K B, special, H&M. Types of Fusing: Dot fusing, woven fabric fusing, one side fusing and both side fusing. Types of Spray: Silicon spray, Hygiene spray, Adhesive spray. Special types of Fabric: Fur fabric, Woven towel, Woven canvas, Taffeta (100% polyester), satin, Georgette, Samara, Chiffon Special Accessories: Pompon, Pompon lase
Classification of Embroidery:
Embroidery is categorized by technique, era, stitch pattern or needlework appearance.
Stitches play an important role in the way embroidery might look. Embroidery is therefore classified according to the stitches used in it. Artists may make use of various stitches according to the desired outlook and the fabric being used. Main classes’ are-
1. Running Stitch: It is the most basic of all stitches and can be used on either plain or even weave fabric. The stitch is a versatile on with many uses, both in embroidery and plain sewing and it is quick and easy to work. Any type of embroidery thread can be used to work the stitch depending on the wet of the ground fabric and size of the stitch. It is used in cut work and for outlining design.
Fig: Running stitch embroidery
2. Whipped Running Stitch: It makes a heavier line than ordinary running stitch, producing a raised all most corded effect. This stitch is used for outlines and linear details because it follows intricate curves smoothly. Any type of embroidery thread can be used to work the stitch but to contrasting thread colors provided a more decorative effect than one color used alone.
Fig: Whipped Running Stitch embroidery
3. Holbein Stitch: (Also known as double running stitch, line stitch, two sided line stitch, two sided stroke stitch, square stitch, Romanian stitch and Chiara stitch). This stitch is a simple stitch to work and is used on even weave fabric, where the threads can be counted to ensure perfect regularity.
Fig: Holbein stitch
4. Back Stitch: Also known as point disable and stitching. Back stitch can be worked as a delicate line stitch on both plane and even weave fabric. It is also used to make firm foundation, rows for composite stitches.
Fig: Back stitch
5. Whipped Back Stitch: It makes a heavier line than back stitch. This effect is created by it varies depending on the choice of whipping thread, use a heavy, shiny thread.
Art work: It is the description sheet provided from merchandising section in according to the buyer demand.
Design: It is the process of converting the pdf artwork file into JPG and then the JPG to BMP format and at last BMP to DST with the help of wilkom software.
Finishing: It is the process of cutting the extra lining thread, applique and unnecessary accessories. To make fault free embroidery product is the main task of finishing.
Quality: It ensures all the requirements fulfilled as the buyer demand. If they find any faults they alter or reject the EMB product.
Delivery: To send the embroidery product to the next process in time.
Sample: It is the installation of design into the embroidery machine and makes some sample to send the buyer to approval.
Flowchart of Embroidery Process in Apparel Industry:
Mail from merchandising dept.
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Develop design from pdf
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Converting pdf to jpg
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Converting jpg to BMP
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Diagnosise in wilcom
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Design development
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Origin point set
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Thread color set
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Stitch number counting
Embroidery flowchart is given in following image:
Fig: Flowchart of embroidery
Steps in bed preparation
Attaching lining
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EMB area marking by sewing
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Tapping the area
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Cutting of the EMB area
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Marking positioning point
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Cut piece set
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Sampling
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Check and maintenance
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Bulk production
Flow chart of bulk production
Making bed
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Framing
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Setting origin point
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Set stabilizer
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Threading
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Making cut piece
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Checking
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Set fabric
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Operate machine
Quality Issues in Embroidery:
Attaching Aesthetic Tape
Stitch Overlap
Grading Mistake
Size Mistake
Color Mistake
Skip Stitch
Lap Stitch
Drop Stitch
Tension Stitch
Needle Hole Creating
Applique Slippage
Position Problem
Quality Requirements in Embroidery:
Cutting Number
Lot Number
Bundle Number
Body Serial Number
Style Number
Size Number
Quality Faults in Embroidery:
Quality Faults:
Cut Stitch
Skip Stitch
Broken Stitch
Open Stitch
Dirty Spot
Oil Spot
Pen Mark
Tension Loose
Fabric Hole
Sewing Problem:
Body Reject
Bundle Mistake
Size Mistake
Knitting Problem:
Yarn Missing
Crease Mark
Twisting
Print Spot
Puckering
Conclusion:
Embroidery is the art of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread. It often incorporates embellishments such as beads, sequins, or pearls for added texture and appeal. With the right embroidery tools, such as needles, threads, and fabric, along with a mastery of various techniques like stitching, appliqué, and beadwork, embroidery can transform ordinary materials into extraordinary works of art. I have explain classification, tools and techniques of embroidery in this article. If you have any query about this please let me know in the comment section.
Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. Mr. Kiron is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.
