Burn Out Printing:
Nowadays print is a very important thing for textile sector. Print makes clothes more attractive. We can’t imagine a dress or clothes without print. Printing sector is also expanding and changing every day with the fashion trends. We are discovering new technique and qualities of print day by day. Printing technology is growing up with the garment industry. 99% fashion apparel are now must have any print on it.
There are many kinds of print we can do on the clothes or fabric. Some prints are very basic and normal, these prints are very cheap also. But some print is very critical and rare. These kinds of print are more costly than basic normal print. But print makes a dress or clothes attractive and salable.
Today I will introduce you with a rare, critical and costly print. The name of this print is burn out print. This is a rare quality print. So-called burnout or Devoré techniques are practiced on various fiber blends. In burn out printing, the print paste contains a chemical compound that destroys or dissolves away one or more types of fiber in a blended fabric. After printing, the fixation process activates the chemical reaction that burns out the fibers. A typical application is to burn out the cellulosic fiber from a blend of cellulose and polyester, using aluminum sulfate or sodium hydrogen sulfate. After a dry heat fixation process, the cellulose fibers are dissolved away, leaving only polyester fibers. Burnout print is also very expensive too. It’s a very nice quality print.
In the above image of the print you will clearly see the polyester and cotton part.
The printing factory makes this print with the flat bed printing machine. The printing way of this print is same as a normal flat bed print, just printer use acid type chemical instead of color.
We can do this print only some selected fabric. This print is not possible on 100% cotton fabric. The best composition for this burn out print is 60% polyester and 40% cotton fabric. This print is also possible on 60% cotton and 40% polyester.
The main technique of burnout print is destroys the cotton portion of the fabric with Acid / Chemical. When the chemical flow over the fabric and contact with cotton portion, then it burn out the cotton by chemical reaction. Actually cotton is the victim here.
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This burnout effect may be also achieved on wool/polyester-blend fabrics by printing with sodium hydroxide, then pressure steaming at 120oC for 15 minutes. The wool component is destroyed in the printed areas, and removed during subsequent washing-off.
Chemicals are Used in Burn Out Printing:
- PC or CVC fabric.
- Paste + Any acid liberating salt (like NaCl, Na2SO4)
- Steaming
- Washing (Roubasting wash)
- Burnout print complete
Only print technicians will understand the above 5 points.
Step by Step Burn Out Printing Process:
For beginners burn out printing process are given below step by step.
1st Step: Develop the print design and screen with the buyer provided artwork.
2nd Step: Knit the fabric with the yarn of following composition
- 60% polyester 40% cotton Or
- 40% polyester 60% cotton Or similar like that.
3rd Step: After complete the kitting of fabric send the gray or scouring fabric to printing factory.
4th Step: Perform the print on this fabric. Here, the cotton part will be destroyed by the acid but polyester portion will be remaining same.
5th Step: Then we will dye and finished the fabric as per our require color.
Hope, above description of burn out print is clear to all.
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Important Points Regarding the Burn Out Printing:
- Burnout print is not possible on 100% cotton fabric. Clothes should be PC or CVC.
- 60% polyester 40% cotton is the best composition for Burnout print.
- Process loss is very high. More than 35%.
- Single jersey construction is the best construction for Burnout print.
- If you need the finished fabric with 120 to 130 GSM then you should knit the fabric with 160 to 170 GSM.
- Burnout print is not only expensive but also lucrative with nice feelings.
When you will calculate the cost of a burnout printed dress or clothes, please follow the below details-
- Please add the burnout print price with fabric price.
- As the sampling cost is very high so also consider it during the pricing.
- Add process loss 35%.
- Normally the cost of burnout print is $4.5 to $5.0/kg
Please find below the costing details of single jersey Burnout fabric:
(This is an example only, price may changed any time)
- Yarn per Kg = $3.60
- Fabric Knitting = $0.15
- Scouring = $0.80
- Burn Print = $5.00
- Wash = $0.80
- Dyeing = $1.50
—————————————-
Total = $ 11.85/Kg
Add process loss = 35%
The finish Burn out Fabric cost will be = $16.00/Kg
Uses of Burn Out Printing:
Burnout printed product is suited to can be extremely diverse. Though burn out printing has some advantages and disadvantages. Depending on the position of the print, the size of the design, and level of transparency you impart, it can be a great addition to t-shirts and other garments. It’s also perfect for rotary screen printing and all over printing, allowing you can also create lace and devoré effects on wide format fabrics for interior and home textiles.
Author of This Article:
Enamul Haque Bipul
Apparel Merchandiser
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- Burning Out Print Techniques
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Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. He is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.
