Anatomy of a Sewing Machine Needle, Types and Functions of Each Part
Muhammad Ibrahim Khalilullah Department of Textile Engineering Daffodil International University Email: ibrahim23-3123@diu.edu.bd
What is Sewing Machine Needle?
Needle is the principle element of sewing machine. The needle carries the upper thread down to meet the lower thread, so it needs to be heavy enough to pierce the fabric but not so big that it leaves an unsightly hole. A worn, dull or damaged needle can cause stitch problems, such as skipped stitches or puckering seams. All needles designed for general sewing machines work with any brand and model of machine and are labeled as system 130/705 H or 15×1 H. There are many different types of machine needles, each designed for different threads, fabrics, and tasks. Sewing machine needles have different sized eyes, different points, and different scarves. As a sewer or sewing operator showld know concept about sewing machine needle. In this article I will discuss different components of sewing machine needle and functions of each parts.
Needle in the sewing machine makes the stitch by taking the thread through the fabric. It creates a small hole for the thread and helps the thread move smoothly. It keeps the stitches neat and prevents skipping or tearing. It also helps the machine run properly while sewing. Common functions of sewing needle are given below:
To pass the needle thread loop through the loop or loops of the looper thread.
Anatomy of a Sewing Machine Needle and Their Functions
Fig: Anatomy of sewing machine needle
1. Butt: For setting the needle on to the needle bar or clamp.
2. Shank: Upper part of the needle which is tied in the needle bar and which supports the needle.
3. Shoulder: Middle part of the shank and blade is shoulder. It helps to make the hole of the fabric and strengthen the needle blade.
4. Blade: Longest part of the needle from the shoulder to needle eye. In this portion, friction between fabric and needle is maximum. Blade is gradually tapered to tip.
5. Long groove: The long and thin groove between shoulders to needle eye in the blade is called long groove. When the needle penetrates the fabric with needle thread, needle thread takes position in the long groove.
6. Eye: The hole present in the front of the needle is called eye. Eye through which sewing thread is passed.
7. Scarf: The groove of the needle above the eye is called scarf. Its purpose is to enable the closer setting of looper to the needle.
8. Point: The portion from the eye to the tip of the needle is called point. Point should be different for different type of fabric.
9. Tip: The last (extreme end) part of the needle is called tip. It helps to create hole in the fabric during sewing.
Needle point:
The portion from the eye to the tip of the needle is called needle point.
Two types of needle point-
Cutting point.
Cloth point.
Cloth point:
Cloth point / Round point needles used for sewing cloths. The point of cloth point needle is round.
Two types of cloth points:
Set point.
Ball point.
Set point:
Set point needles used for sewing woven fabrics.
3 types of set points namely:
Slim set point: For sewing densely woven fabric or top stitching like collar, cuff and pockets.
Set point: For sewing medium densely woven fabrics.
Heavy set point: For sewing buttons ( attaching buttons)
Fig: Needle set point
Ball point:
Ball point needles used for sewing knitted garments.
Ball point needles are of 3 types:
Light ball point.
Medium ball point.
Heavy ball point.
Fig: Needle ball point
Needle size expression
Metric system (Nm): Easy process, most usable, based on blade diameter.
Needle size = Blade dia in mm X 100 = 0.8 mm X 100 =80 Nm.
Needle heats with m/c parts specially throat plate.
Faulty fabric handling during sewing by m/c operator.
Needle deflection during sewing.
Improper needle size selection.
Improper needle point selection.
Types of Specialty Sewing Needles
Each specialty needle in its own way will solve a stitching issue for you. Here are some popular specialty sewing needles:
Leather needles
The wedge shape of a leather needle keeps the leather from grabbing the needle and not letting go as the stitch is formed, therefore forming skipped stitches. A leather needle can also be used in those when-all-else-has-failed situations, mending a tent, for example.
Topstitch needles
The long, large eye of these needles takes thicker threads easily and avoids those top-stitching jams.
Twin-needles
These needles come in varying widths and sharp and ballpoint varieties. They are easily recognizable by the two machine needles mounted in a single shaft. Twins can be used in any sewing machine that does a straight stitch as long as that machine has a top- or front-loading bobbin case, but not one that loads on the side as in a vintage Singer Featherweight, for example.
Fig: Twin needles
Twin needles also put two threads in the upper thread path (that’s why you may have a spare spindle on the machine or in your accessory kit), one for each needle. The two threads force the bobbin thread to move back and forth, creating a stretchy sort of zigzag stitch on the underside of the fabric.
Because of this bobbin action, any twin-needle stitch, like all zigzags, is by definition stretchy, which makes it perfect for knit hems and top stitching. When using a twin needle, stitch at a slow steady pace. If you experience “tunneling” between the stitching, try using either a closer-set twin needle, stitching with a stabilizer under the fabric, interfacing the hem with a fusible tricot interfacing, or using wooly nylon in the bobbin.
Here are some twin-needles. Note that they come in a wide variety of widths with both sharp for woven and ballpoint for knits points.
And below is a twin-needle hem. From the top of the fabric you would see 2 parallel rows of top stitching. From the back, you would see the bobbin thread zigzag between both lines of thread.
Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. Mr. Kiron is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.
