Introduction
When designers select textiles for wearing apparel, they consider many factors. Fabric classifications and characteristics regarding aesthetic desirability and performance are specified in relation to the garment’s design and intended use. Weight, width, put-up, and detailed specifications all affect how a fabric will perform in the finished garment. Those details are part of the selection process from the start.
Fabric Categories
Fabrics are classified into two general categories: basic and novelty.
Basic Fabrics
Basic fabrics are core materials designers rely on from season to season or year to year. Basic goods are updated from one season to the next through changes in color, fiber content, finish, pattern, or print design. Basic goods are typically less expensive because they are produced and ordered in larger quantities. These goods are typically stocked materials.
Examples of basic fabrics include:
- Broadcloth
- Chino
- Corduroy
- Denim
- Fleece
- Gabardine
- Interlock
- Jersey
- Knit pique
- Oxford cloth
- Polar fleece
- Poplin
- Rib knit
- Thermal cloth
Novelty Fabrics
Novelty fabrics are distinctive materials produced in limited production runs and are more expensive than basic goods. Novelty fabrics may contain specialty fibers or yarns, unusual knit or weave structures, or unique prints or pattern designs.
Fabric Weight
Designers and product developers need to know the weight of the fabrics they are designing garments with because weight affects how a garment will hang and drape on the body. The two systems used to measure fabric weight are the International System of Units (Systeme International d’Unites), known as SI units, and U.S. customary units (English System). SI is the designation for metric units of measurement used internationally. U.S. customary units are the designation for the English units of measurement used in the United States.
Fabric weight is the mass per unit area of a material. Mass per unit area can be conveyed as ounces per square yard (grams per square meter) or ounces per linear yard (grams per linear meter). Additionally, fabric weight can be communicated inversely as linear yards per pound (linear meters per kilogram). Factors influencing fabric weight include fiber content, yarn size, number of yarns per inch (per 25 mm) in the warp and filling directions of woven materials, or the number of loops in the wale and course directions of knitted fabrics.
Designers, manufacturers, and suppliers typically refer to fabrics as top weight or bottom weight. Top-weight fabrics are those weighing 6 oz/sq yd (203.43 g/m²) or less. Bottom-weight fabrics weigh 8 oz/sq yd (271.25 g/m²) or more. Common fabric weight ranges and uses are as follows:
- Extra-light top-weight fabrics, 1 to 3 oz/sq yd (33.91 to 101.72 g/m²), used for sheer blouses, lingerie, tissue-weight knitted tops, and T-shirts.
- Light top-weight fabrics, 4 to 6 oz/sq yd (135.62 to 203.43 g/m²), used for blouses, casual shirts, dresses, dress shirts, knitted tops, pajamas, sweaters, T-shirts, undergarments.
- Tropical-weight fabrics, 4.5 to 8.5 oz/sq yd (152.58 to 288.20 g/m²), used for dresses, jackets, knitted tops, suits intended for wear in the summer or hotter climates, trousers.
- Bottom or medium-weight fabrics, 7 to 9 oz/sq yd (237.34 to 305.15 g/m²), used for coats, pants, dresses, jackets, jeans, knitted tops, pants, shorts, skirts, suits for all-season wear, sweaters, sweatshirts, trousers.
- Heavy bottom-weight fabrics, 10 to 12 oz/sq yd (339.06 to 406.87 g/m²), used for coats, parkas, denim garments, jackets, jeans, pants, cold-weather suits, sweaters, sweatshirts, sweatpants, trousers.
- Extra-heavy bottom-weight fabrics, 14 to 16 oz/sq yd (474.68 to 542.49 g/m²), used for denim garments, jackets, jeans, pants, sweaters, sweatshirts, sweatpants, winter coats, and parkas.
Fabric Weight Terms
- Ounces per Square Yard: Fabric weight reported as the mass per unit area of a piece of fabric that measures 36 inches by 36 inches.
- Grams per Square Meter: Fabric weight reported as the mass per unit area of a piece of fabric that measures 100 centimeters by 100 centimeters.
- Ounces per Linear Yard: Fabric weight reported as the mass per unit area of a piece of fabric that measures 36 inches by the total width of the material in inches.
- Grams per Linear Meter: Fabric weight reported as the mass per unit area of a piece of fabric that measures 100 centimeters by the total width of the material in centimeters.
- Linear Yards per Pound: Fabric weight reported as the number of yards of fabric equal to 1 pound of material in a particular width in inches.
- Linear Meters per Kilogram: Fabric weight reported as the number of meters of fabric equal to 1 kilogram of material in a particular width in centimeters.
- Yield for Knitted Fabrics: The number of square yards per pound of fabric.
- Momme: The Japanese unit used for measuring the weight of silk fabrics. The weight of silk fabric may also be reported in grams. 28 grams = 1 ounce; 1 ounce = 8 momme (mm).
Fabric Width
The distance measured, without tension, across a flat material from one selvage to the other is known as fabric width. Fabric width is measured in inches or centimeters and reported in whole numbers such as 58″ (147 cm) or as a range 58/60″ (147/152 cm). Measurements are taken at various intervals along the length of the fabric to provide the most accurate width information. The width of fabrics can vary depending on the size of the loom or knitting machine used to make the material and the amount of shrinkage that can occur during finishing. When a width range is provided, it is typically due to variations in shrinkage of the fabric that occurs during finishing. For example, some portions of the fabric measure 44 inches (112 cm) in width, whereas others measure 45 inches (114 cm).
Fabric width of circular knits is determined by measuring the diameter of the flattened tubular goods. Knowing the width of the fabric is important for determining the amount needed for a garment, laying out garment parts for cutting to provide the best utilization of fabric to avoid unnecessary waste, and calculating the cost of fabric consumption or yield for a garment.
Wider fabrics typically provide better utilization than narrow goods because less yardage is needed. The width of woven fabrics typically ranges from 12 inches (30 cm) to 120 inches (305 cm). Most woven fabrics used for apparel are 45-inch (114 cm) and 60-inch (152 cm) widths. The width of knitted fabrics usually ranges from 36 inches (91 cm) to more than 200 inches (508 cm). Materials having a width of 36 inches (91 cm) or less are considered narrow fabrics. Some specialty fabrics may be as narrow as 12 inches (30 cm). Materials having widths of 72 inches (183 cm) or more are considered wide fabrics and are used for soft home products and home furnishings.
Fabric Put-Up
The manner in which textile material is packaged is called put-up. Apparel manufacturers purchase fabrics from mills or converters in a rolled put-up. Converters purchase greige goods (unfinished fabrics) and apply finishes specified by designers or product developers. Typically, fabric is rolled onto a cardboard tube that holds 60 to 100 yards (55 to 90 meters). Open-width or tubular knitted fabrics are packaged in a rolled put-up weighing 35 to 50 pounds (560 to 800 ounces). Some fabrics are put-up in 1,000-yard lengths for greater efficiency in high-volume apparel manufacturing.
Fabric Specifications
Aesthetic and physical performance of sewn products depends in no small part on detailed specifications for textile fabrics. Fabric specifications include detailed statements describing fiber content, yarn composition, fabric structure and construction, weight, characteristics and performance requirements, finishes, and color standards for manufacturing.
Fabric specifications include:
- Fiber content, size, and length
- Yarn type
- Yarn structure
- Yarn twist and number of turns per inch
- Single or number of ply yarns
- Yarn number
- Knit or weave type
- Yarn count
- Fabric weight
- Fabric width
- Fabric density
- Defect tolerances
- Color standards
- Color identification information from vendor’s color card or dye or pigment specifications
- Finishes
- Appearance requirements and tolerance
- Abrasion requirements and tolerances
- Chemical resistance requirements and tolerances
- Acids
- Alkalis
- Bleaching
- Drycleaning
- Insects/microorganisms
- Colorfastness requirements and tolerances
- Atmospheric contaminants
- Bleach
- Crocking (rubbing)
- Drycleaning
- Laundering (home and commercial)
- Light
- Perspiration
- Dimensional stability requirements and tolerances
- Flammability requirements and tolerances
- Strength and elongation requirements and tolerances
- Thermal property requirements and tolerances
Conclusion
Fabric specifications bring together appearance, construction, and performance requirements in one place. Weight helps determine how a garment will hang and drape, while width affects fabric utilization, cutting layout, and fabric consumption. Put-up also matters because it affects how the material is packaged and handled in production. With clear specifications in place, the next stage of garment development becomes more focused and consistent.
Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. Mr. Kiron is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor to Wikipedia.
