Parameters of Woven Fabrics
Md. Golam Rasul1, Kazi Monalesa Alam & Md. Alamin Hossain
Department of Textile Engineering
Northern University Bangladesh
Email: golam2134@gmail.com1
Abstract
Woven fabrics are the most basic and versatile of all fabrics, and their overall stability makes them the best choice for beginning sewers. Not all woven fabrics are equal however, and it is important to understand the basic characteristics of woven fabrics and how the fiber content affects them. These characteristics will affect not only how easy the fabrics are to handle, but how they drape, if they are prone to wrinkle, and how durable they are. We will discuss the woven fabrics quality parameters which alludes diverse test method of fabric, for example, EPI and PPI, GSM, crimp%, appearance, hand feel, quality and so forth.
CHAPTER 1
INTRODUCTION
1.1 Introduction
Woven fabrics are the most basic and versatile of all fabrics, and their overall stability makes them the best choice for beginning sewers. Not all woven fabrics are equal however, and it is important to understand the basic characteristics of woven fabric and how the fiber content affects them. These characteristics will affect not only how easy the fabrics are to handle, but how they drape, if they are prone to wrinkle, and how durable they are. Medium weight 100% cotton fabric, the kind that fills the shelves in the quilting section of the fabric store, is generally the best choice for beginning sewers. This fabric tends to hold its shape, it lies flat, isn’t slippery, creases well when pressed, and takes a needle easily all of which will help to make your first sewing experience a positive one.
Fabric is a get together of yarn which is made by interlacing or interloping. Knitting and woven are the two-fundamental class of fabric. We will discuss the quality parameters of woven fabrics which alludes diverse test method of fabric, for example, EPI and PPI tally, GSM, quality and so forth.
Quality means, the standard of something as measured against other things of a similar kind; the degree of excellence of something. Quality issues are the main factor for an industry to sustain. It can hinder the growth of the industry. Because, no buyer will buy quality less product. Here, one thing should be cleared that, quality in textile or garments sector means buyer requirement.
1.2 What is Fabric
Fabric is cloth or other material produced by weaving together cotton, nylon, wool, silk, or other threads. Fabrics are used for making things such as clothes, curtains, and sheets. The fabric of a society or system is its basic structure, with all the customs and beliefs that make it work successfully.
1.3 Fabrics Parameters
The fabric parameters are the specifications of the fabric which are necessary to know before the start of weaving. If a weaver has all parameters of a fabric, he can start weaving without sample swatch of fabric. Fabric parameters are very important to a weaver.
1.4 How can Made Woven Fabric
Woven fabric is made by weaving or knitting yarns, this is the way that most fabrics are made. Non-woven fabrics are made by bonding or felting fibers together. Woven fabrics are made up of a weft (going across the fabric) and a warp (going down the length of the fabric).
1.5 Different Types of Weaves:
Plain Weave:
The simplest of all weaves is the plain weave. Each filling yarn passes alternately over and under one warp yarn. Each warp yarn passes alternately over and under each filling yarn. Some examples of plain-weave fabric are crepe, taffeta, organdy and muslin. This has some categories as follows
Warp rib weave: Warp rib weaves may be described as plain weave in which two or more picks are inserted in the same shed. Warp rib weaves are normally used in warp faced constructions. The warp cover factor and the warp crimp are substantially higher than the weft cover factor and the weft crimp. The intention is to produce fabrics with prominent weft- way rib formed by the crowns of the warp threads.
Weft rib weave: Weft rib may be described as plain weave in which two or more ends weave together as one. It is difficult to achieve very high weft cover factors in weft faced plain- weave cloths. By using two finer ends weaving as one, it becomes possible to achieve higher weft cover factor. Such cloths are expensive to weave and not very common. Basket, matt or hopsack weave- In matt, basket or hopsack weaves two or more ends and two or more picks weave as one. The simplest and commonest of these weaves is 2/2 matt.
Twill Weave:
A weave that repeats on 3 or more ends and picks and produces diagonal lines on the face of the fabric. A twill weave is characterized by diagonal rib (twill lines) on the face of the fabric. These twill lines are produced by letting all warp ends interlace in the same way but displacing the interlacing points of each end by one pick relative to that of the previous end. In twill weave line moves sinisterly (Right – Left, Z twill) and dextrally (Left – Right, S twill). Common derivatives of twill weave are as follows.
Zigzag weave: If the direction of the diagonal in a twill fabric is reversed periodically across the width, a zigzag effect is produced. Zigzag weave is achieved by simply combining two S and Z twill weaves of equal repeat.
Diamond weave: Diamond weaves are achieved by combining two symmetrical zigzag weaves of equal repeat. Diamond designs are vertically and horizontally symmetrical.
Herringbone weave: In Herringbone weave also the twill direction is reversed periodically like zigzag weave but at the point of reversal the order of interlacement is also reversed and then twill line commence as usual.
Satin/sateen Weave:
The satin weave is characterized by floating yarns used to produce a high luster on one side of a fabric. Warp yarns of low twist float or pass over four or more filling yarns. The low twist and the floating of the warp yarns, together with the fiber content, give a high degree of light reflection. Weights of satin fabrics range from chiffon satin to heavy duchesse satin. The sateen weave is similar to a satin construction except that in the sateen weave, the filling yarns float and are visible on the surface of fabric. Examples: cotton sateen, and damask.
Fancy Design: The interlacing of the threads in a form which varies from that of the basic weaves already described, is accomplished with a view to producing a fabric which is decorative in appearance and may also utilize the characteristic features of the weave for some useful purpose.
CHAPTER 2
LITERATURE REVIEW
2.1 Weaving:
Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. Other methods are knitting, crocheting, felting, and braiding or plaiting. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft, woof, or filling. (Weft is an old English word meaning “that which is woven”; compare leave and left.[a]) The method in which these threads are inter-woven affects the characteristics of the cloth.[1] Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a device that holds the warp threads in place while filling threads are woven through them. A fabric band which meets this definition of cloth (warp threads with a weft thread winding between) can also be made using other methods, including tablet weaving, back strap loom, or other techniques without looms.[2]
The way the warp and filling threads interlace with each other is called the weave. The majority of woven products are created with one of three basic weaves: plain weave, satin weave, or twill weave. Woven cloth can be plain (in one color or a simple pattern), or can be woven in decorative or artistic design.
EPI (Ends Per Inch):
Ends per inch is the number of warp threads per inch of woven fabric. In general, the higher the ends per inch, the finer the fabric.
PPI (Picks Per Inch): Picks per inch/inch is the number of weft threads per inch of woven fabric. A pick is a single weft thread, hence the term. In general, the higher the picks per inch, the finer the fabric is.
2.2 Fabrics:
Fabric is a flexible artificial material made up of a network of natural or artificial fibers (thread or yarn) formed by weaving or knitting (textiles), or pressed into felt. Cloth is most often used in the manufacture of clothing, household furnishings, and art such as tapestry. Before the advent of woven cloth, the functions of textiles were fulfilled by furs and skins.
2.3 Count:
The size of yarn is defined by its weight and fineness. You may have:
- Tex = No. of grams per kilometer
- English Cotton Count = No. of 840 yd lengths per lb.
- Woolen Count (YSW) = No. of 256 yd lengths per lb.
- Woolen Count (Dewsbury) = No. of yard lengths per oz
- Worsted Count = No. of 560 yd lengths per lb.
- Metric Count = No. of kilometers per kilogram
- Linen Count (Wet Spun) = No. of 300 yd. length per lb.
- Jute Count = No. of lb. per 14.400 yd
- Denier = No. of grams per 9.000 meters.
- Decitex = No. of grams per 10.000 meters.
Heddles explains (Yarn) Count:
Yarn count refers to the thickness of a yarn and is determined by its mass per unit length. It is usually measured by the number of grams per one kilometer of yarn, a unit of measure called “Tex”.
However, the spinning industry tends to use English cotton count, which is determined by the number of yarn hanks (each 840 yards long) per pound of yarn, and is notated “Ne”.
In this system, the larger the number the finer the yarn and vice versa. The yarn count for denim ranges from Ne 4.0 to Ne 12.5, with lighter weight fabrics such as chambray ranging from Ne 12.5 to Ne 30.0.
2.4 GSM:
GSM stands for Grams per Square Meter and it is the metric measurement to check the weight of the fabric. GSM value is dependent on the kind of fabric – Cotton, wool, polyester etc. The fabric GSM is directly proportional to the thickness of the fabric. As the value of gsm increases, the thickness increases as well. GSM is not restricted to fabric alone. To calculate GSM of fabric or paper means to measure their thickness.
CHAPTER 3
MATERIALS AND METHOD
3.1 Materials
Woven fabrics are often created on a loom, and made of many threads woven on a warp and a weft. Technically, a woven fabric is any fabric made by interlacing two or more threads at right angles to one another. Weaving is plain, twill, Satin also fancy weave fabric.
3.2 Materials Specification:
- Style No :202101
- Warp Count :40’s CWC
- Weft Count :40’s CWC
- EPI :86
- PPI :72
- Weave :Fancy Weave (Dobby)
- Composition :100% Cotton
- Fabric Type : Yarn Dyed
3.3 Materials Specification:
- Style No :202102
- Warp Count :16’s OE
- Weft Count :16’s OE
- EPI :70
- PPI :60
- Weave :Fancy Weave (Dobby)
- Composition :100% Cotton
- Fabric Type :Yarn Dyed
3.4 Materials Specification:
- Style No :202103
- Warp Count :20’s OE +(20CW with 70D)
- Weft Count :20’s OE +(20CW with 70D)
- EPI :64
- PPI :56
- Weave :Fancy Weave (Dobby)
- Composition :99% Cotton, 1% Spandex
- Fabric Type : Yarn Dyed
3.5 Materials Specification
- Style No :202104
- Warp Count :40’s CWC
- Weft Count :40’s CWC
- EPI : 100
- PPI :72
- Weave : Plain
- Composition :100% Cotton
- Fabric Type : Yarn Dyed with Space Dyed
3.6 Materials Specification:
- Style No :202105
- Warp Count :40/2 CWC
- Weft Count :40/2 CWC
- EPI :64
- PPI :56
- Weave : Plain
- Composition :100% Cotton
- Fabric Type : Yarn Dyed with Space Dyed
3.7 Materials Specification:
- Style No :202106
- Warp Count :40/2 CWC
- Weft Count : 20CW with 70D
- EPI :64
- PPI :48
- Weave :Plain
- Composition :98% Cotton, 2% Spandex
- Fabric Type : Yarn Dyed with Space Dyed
3.8 Materials Specification:
- Style No :202107
- Warp Count :30’s CWC
- Weft Count :30’s CWC
- EPI :100
- PPI :80
- Weave : Fancy Weave (Double cloth Dobby)
- Composition :100% Cotton
- Fabric Type : Yarn Dyed
3.9 Materials Specification:
- Style No :202108
- Warp Count :30’s CWC
- Weft Count :20’s OE
- EPI :100
- PPI :70
- Weave : Fancy Weave (Double cloth Dobby))
- Composition :100% Cotton
- Fabric Type : Yarn Dyed
3.10 Materials Specification:
- Style No :202109
- Warp Count :40’s CWC
- Weft Count : 20’s OE +(20CW with 70D)
- EPI :120
- PPI :80
- Weave : Fancy Weave (Double cloth Dobby))
- Composition :99% Cotton, 1% Spandex
- Fabric Type : Yarn Dyed
3.11 Machine Specification: Loom
- Brand name : CCI TECH INC.
- Model :THE STUDIO
- Origin :Taiwan
- Heald Capacity :22
- Pre-Winder :8
3.12 Machine Specification: GSM Cutter
- Brand Name :CHANG YI FANG YI
- Origin :China
- Sample cut area :100 cm2
3.13 Machine Specification: Balance Scale
- Brand Name : OHAUS
- Model Number :PA214
- Origin :China
- Maximum Capacity :210 g
3.14 Measurement Scale:
3.15 Flow Chart of Weaving:
Yarn from Spinning
↓
Winding
↓
Creeling
↓
Warping
↓
Sizing
↓
Drawing in
↓
Denting
↓
↓
Fabric
↓
Weaving
3.16 Crimp%:
Woven fabrics are made of two sets of yarns, warp and weft yarns. Warp and weft yarns are interlaced with each another and form fabric sheet. Inside the fabric, yarns form a wavy shape instead of straight yarn. As a result, actual length of the yarns is longer than the length of fabric width and length in fabric. Both in warp way and weft ways. The shortening of yarn length in fabric is known as crimp. Crimp% in woven fabric varies depending on fabric structure – like yarn density and yarn thickness.
Calculation warp and weft crimp%:
- At first take a fabric sample of 30cm X 30cm.
- Pull out warp and weft yarns from the fabric.
- Remove crimp from yarns and straighten to its actual length.
- Measure the length of the straighten warp and weft.
Yarn Crimp% = 100 X (Straighten Yarn length – Yarn length in fabric)/Fabric Length Warp Crimp% = 100 X [(length of warps in straighten form – warp wise fabric sample length)/Warp wise fabric sample length]
Weft Crimp% = 100 X [(length of weft in straighten form – weft wise fabric sample length)/Weft wise fabric sample length]
3.17 GSM
The meaning of GSM is “gram per cutter meter”, which unit is (gm/m2). GSM is the method of taking the weight of a fabric in grams, measure the length in meter and width in meter.
GSM can be measured physically by following some easy ways that includes GSM round cutting, square cutting etc.
CHAPTER 4
RESULTS and DISCUSSION
Table 4.1: Result of sample number 202101
Warp Count | 40’s CWC |
Weft Count | 40’s CWC |
EPI X PPI | 86X72 |
Composition | 100% Cotton |
Weave | Fancy Weave |
Warp Crimp% | 10% |
Weft Crimp% | 6% |
Fabric GSM | 98gm |
Stretch Ability | 1-2% |
Appearance | Good |
Hand Feel | Regular |
Table-4.2: Result of sample number 202102
Warp Count | 16’s OE |
Weft Count | 16’s OE |
EPI X PPI | 70X60 |
Composition | 100% Cotton |
Weave | Fancy Weave |
Warp Crimp% | 14% |
Weft Crimp% | 10% |
Fabric GSM | 200gm |
Stretch Ability | 1-2% |
Appearance | Good |
Hand Feel | Stiff |
Table-4.3: Result of sample number 202103
Warp Count | 20’s OE+20CW with 70D |
Weft Count | 20’s OE+20CW with 70D |
EPI X PPI | 64X56 |
Composition | 99% Cotton, 1%Spandex |
Weave | Fancy Weave |
Warp Crimp% | 18% |
Weft Crimp% | 25% |
Fabric GSM | 155gm |
Stretch Ability | 10-12% |
Appearance | Crinkle |
Hand Feel | Soft |
Table-4.4: Result of sample number 202104
Warp Count | 40’s CWC |
Weft Count | 40’s CWC |
EPI X PPI | 100X72 |
Composition | 100% Cotton |
Weave | 1/1 Plain |
Warp Crimp% | 9% |
Weft Crimp% | 5% |
Fabric GSM | 99gm |
Stretch Ability | 1-2% |
Appearance | Good |
Hand Feel | Regular |
Table-4.5: Result of sample number 202105
Warp Count | 40/2 CWC |
Weft Count | 40/2 CWC |
EPI X PPI | 64X56 |
Composition | 100% Cotton |
Weave | 1/1 Plain |
Warp Crimp% | 8% |
Weft Crimp% | 8% |
Fabric GSM | 140gm |
Stretch Ability | 1-2% |
Appearance | Good |
Hand Feel | Soft |
Table-4.6: Result of sample number 202106
Warp Count | 40/2 CWC |
Weft Count | 20’s CW with 70D |
EPI X PPI | 64X48 |
Composition | 98%Cotton, 2% Spandex |
Weave | 1/1 Plain |
Warp Crimp% | 8% |
Weft Crimp% | 32% |
Fabric GSM | 140gm |
Stretch Ability | 10-12% |
Appearance | Good |
Hand Feel | Soft |
Table-4.7: Result of sample number 202107
Warp Count | 30’s CWC |
Weft Count | 30’s CWC |
EPI X PPI | 100X80 |
Composition | 100% Cotton |
Weave | Fancy Weave |
Warp Crimp% | 7% |
Weft Crimp% | 6% |
Fabric GSM | 142gm |
Stretch Ability | 1-2% |
Appearance | Good |
Hand Feel | Regular |
Table-4.8: Result of sample number 202108
Warp Count | 30’s CWC |
Weft Count | 20’s OE |
EPI X PPI | 100X70 |
Composition | 100% Cotton |
Weave | Fancy Weave |
Warp Crimp% | 12% |
Weft Crimp% | 5% |
Fabric GSM | 164gm |
Stretch Ability | 1-2% |
Appearance | Good |
Hand Feel | Stiff |
Table-4.9: Result of sample number 202109
Warp Count | 40’s CWC |
Weft Count | 20’s OE + (20CW with 70D) |
EPI X PPI | 120X80 |
Composition | 99%Cotton, 1%Spandex |
Weave | Fancy Weave |
Warp Crimp% | 22% |
Weft Crimp% | 40% |
Fabric GSM | 228gm |
Stretch Ability | 12-15% |
Appearance | Crinkle |
Hand Feel | Soft |
Discussion:
Above graph-4.1 we observe that, sample-202101, 202102, 202103 the variation of crimp% warp and weft of different construction for same fancy weave. In warp way we can see the crimp% are regularly increasing based on density and count and no significant change here. In weft way we can see that sample-202101 and 212102 the crimp% are lower than warp crimp%, but sample -202103 crimp% is significant change, crimp% is higher than sample- 202101 and 202102 because of using Spandex yarn. For warp here we didn’t use any spandex but when we have spandex in other set of material (e.g. weft) due to high crimp in weft it leads more crimp in warp also.
Discussion:
Above graph-4.2 we observe that, sample-202104, 202105, 202106 the variation of crimp% warp and weft of different construction for same Plain weave. In warp way we can see the crimp of sample 202104 is higher than sample-202105 and 202106 for using finer count and high density. Sample 202105 and 202106 both crimp% are equal for using same count and same density here in no significant change. In weft way we can see the crimp% is little bit change between sample-202104 and 202105 it’s regularly, but sample-202106 crimp% is more than higher comparatively sample-202104 and 202105 it’s significant change for using spandex yarn in weft.
Discussion:
Above graph-4.3 we observe that, sample-202107, 202108, 202109 the variation of crimp% warp and weft of different construction for same fancy weave. In warp way we can see the crimp% are regularly increasing based on density and count, but here smaple-202109 crimp% is little bit higher than sample-202107 and 202108 because of using spandex yarn in weft here no major issue. In weft way we can see that sample-202107 and 212108 the crimp% are lower than warp crimp%, but sample -202109 crimp% is significant change, crimp% is higher than sample-202108 and 202109 because of using Spandex yarn. Also, we can see a major change of sample-202109 crimp% is higher in both way (warp and weft) comparatively sample- 202107 and 202108. For warp here we didn’t use any spandex but when we have spandex in other set of material (e.g. weft) due to high crimp in weft it leads more crimp in warp also.
Discussion:
Content Name | Sample-202101 | Sample-202102 | Sample-202103 |
Hand Feel | Regular | Stiff | Soft |
Design Visual | Low | Good | Poor |
Extensibility | Low | Poor | Good |
Discussion:
Content Name | Sample-202104 | Sample-202105 | Sample-202106 |
Hand Feel | Regular | Soft | Soft |
Design Visual | Low | Good | Poor |
Extensibility | Low | Poor | Good |
Discussion:
Content Name | Sample-202107 | Sample-202108 | Sample-202109 |
Hand Feel | Regular | Stiff | Soft |
Design Visual | Good | low | Poor |
Extensibility | Low | Poor | Good |
CHAPTER 5
CONCLUSION
5.1 Conclusion:
By this project work, we observed different parameters of woven fabrics such as EPI, PPI, GSM, Crimp%, hand feel, extensibility. We also face some limitations during worked. We had seen some magnificent change based on same weave but using Spandex yarn. For using spandex yarn, the fabric appearance, hand feel, GSM, Crimp% are more variable than cotton fabric. Always we got higher crimp% on spandex fabric. Also got good hand feel from spandex fabric. But design visuality is poor in spandex fabric. From this project we have learned lot of thinks about different parameters of woven fabric.
5.2 References:
- Afroz, F., and Siddika, A. (2014). Effect of warp yarn tension on crimp% in woven fabric. European Scientific Journal, ESJ,10(24).
- Dr. Md.Mahbubul Haque,Prof. N. C. Sutradhar(2000). Crimp Measurement: Aspect of Accuracy. Journal of ITET, February, pp: 29-34`.
- Md. Samiul Haq, Afifa Sultana “Quality Parameters of Woven Fabric” Retrieved from https://www.textileblog.com/quality-parameters-of-woven-fabric/
- Jeon, B. S., Chun, S. Y., and Hong, C. J. (2003). Structural and mechanical properties of woven fabrics employing Peirce’s model. Textile Research Journal, 73, 929–933.doi:10.1177/ 004051750307301014
- BS 2863:1984, ISO 7211-3:1984. Method for determination of crimp of yarn in fabric
- Textile Terms and Definitions. 11th Edition. Manchester, UK: The Textile Institute; 2002. 6.Crimp In arn and Fabric.(n.d.). retrieved from http://textilecollege.wordpress.com /2013/09/21/crimpin-yarn-and-fabric/
- https://www.researchgate.net/publication/267271279
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