Basic Elements and Techniques of Garment Fitting
R.S. Balakumar
Associate Professor
Dept of Fashion Design & Arts
Hindustan University, Chennai, India
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com
Garment Fitting:
The garment fitting techniques refer to how well a garment confirms to the three dimensional human body figure. Good garment fit is crucial to ones the human body at most for its satisfaction. Anyway, it is often easier to find clothes in right columns, prices, and style that one likes to be considered as the psychological factor.
The effect of a staining design, gorgeous fabric and exquisite workmanship are destroyed if the finished garment doesn’t well to the intended wearer.
The following points are considered to be the ill fitted dress:
- Careless design,
- Poor dressing & cutting,
- Securing construction
Bespoke or made to measure system garments are made to fit an individual body portion is inthebest suitable manner. Good Craftsmanship and Artisan work always hard to make so perfect fit garments and customer’s satisfaction also be increased.
While preparing the garment design it is always necessary to eliminate the mistake free designs by means of enhancing the aesthetic appearance of the garment.
Drafting and cutting of garment plays a vital role to achieve the good fitting of the garment. A simple mathematical calculations are correctly made while drafting and then cutting process.
Securing construction is important to maintain proper fitness of the garment to the human body. Free from securing defects are to be considered using of stitching & securing process of the particular parts of the garment is always important.
Elements and Techniques of Garment Fitting
An evaluation of the garment fit is based on five classical elements. These are as follows:
- Grain
- Set
- Line
- Balance
- Ease
1. Grain:
To obtain a proper and good fit of the garment must he cut on the right grains or in other words on grain. An on grain garment hangs evenly and appears symmetrical. If the garment is off grain, it will not hang straight.
The garment and seam lines may twist or hang crooked because the fabric on each holeof the garment behaves differently. Deviation in the grain line is a result of poor and wrong cutting or securing or even due to a poor posture of the wearer or figure irregularities that may in her fare with the grain of the garment as it hangs on the body.
2. Set:
It refers to a very smooth fit without any undesirable wrinkles. Wrinkles caused by poor set cannot be ironed out, but result from the way the garment fit the wearer. Set wrinkles usually occur because the garment is too large or too small for the wearer and the garment hangs or sags when worn by the customer.
3. Line:
This refers to the alignment of the structural lines of the body side seams of the garment should hang like a plumb line dam the centre of the body. It should always be perpendicular to the floor.
Darts and seams such as shoulder seams should visually appear to the vertical lines that follow the human body portion are intended to fit. Other seam lines should be gradually curving lines like Necklines, Waistlines, Hiplines and arm whole portion.
Full filled will be found due to poor design and construction of the specified garment and also irregularities of human body can distort the lines of the garment.
You may also like: Lines: As Optical Illusion on Dress
4. Balance:
The right side and the left side of the garment portions are to the appeared evenly balanced or symmetrical while viewed the three dimensional view such as front, rear side portions. Poor posture like stooping figure, Hunch back figure will create the back length is considerably lesser than the front length while observing in side view portion.
Balance relates to grain and live in the garment. A garment is out of balance when it is cut off grain, causing it to hang unevenly.
5. Ease:
It refers to the amount of roominess in a specified garment. There are two kinds of ease 1. Fitting ease, 2. Design ease. A garment must contain adequate ease beyond the actual measurements of the wearer to allow room for ordinary human body —-ments like walking, Sitting, riding and even breathing. Ease in this context is called Fitting ease. Design ease is the extra style like fullness added to the fitting ease. All the garments have fitting ease but design ease is optional as it is added purely for the sake of appearance and giving the garment its style.
Conclusion:
Good fitting of any garment is started from the human body measuring techniques, observation of the individual customers figure formation, influence of the fabric, cutting and its securing constructions are to be prepared in a systematic manner to reach the best fitted garment according to the human body’s structure.
References:
- USHA TAILORING GUIDE
- Hand book on Garment manufacturing Technology, Eri publications.
- Practical clothing construction by Mary Mathews.
You may also like: Garment Fitting Problems, Reasons and Solutions
Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. Mr. Kiron is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.
