Causes and Remedies of Sewing Problems
Mayedul Islam
Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.
Badda, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Email: mayedul.islam66@gmail.com
Sewing Problems:
Sewing is a basic operation of garments manufacturing. Lots of problems occur during sewing operation. In this article I will discuss on various causes of sewing problems and their remedies.
Common Causes and Remedies of Sewing Problems:
A. Problems of stitch formation
i) Slipped stitch:
Missing of interloping or interlacing between top and bottom threads.
Causes:
- Looper or hook and needle are not properly placed.
- Irregular thread tension.
- Needle deflection.
- Needle threads loop size too small.
Remedies:
- Proper placement of needle and looper or hook.
- Accurate tension maintaining.
- Needle can be changed.
ii) Staggered stitch:
Stitch is not parallel produced by needle.
Causes:
- Needle deflection.
- Due to wrong needle point.
- Defected motion of feed dog.
- Wrong adjustment of needle and thread size.
Remedies:
- Increase needle size.
- Needle size and thread size to be altered.
- Motion of feed dog to be adjusted.
iii) Unbalance Stitch:
Improper interlacement of threads especially in lock stitch machine.
Causes:
- Wrong tension of sewing thread.
- Used wrong thread path.
- Snagging of needle with bobbing case.
Remedies:
- Setting of proper tension to the sewing threads.
- Use of right thread path.
- Bobbin case to be smooth.
iv) Variable stitch density:
Number of stitch per unit length is not equal.
Causes:
- Improper unwinding of thread from package during sewing.
- Twisting of needle thread in the bottom of thread package.
- Snarling of thread before tension disk.
- Use of broken check spring.
- Fraying of thread in the needle.
Remedies:
- The position of thread guide must be 2.5 times higher than the position of thread package.
- Foam pad must be used to the bottom of thread package.
- Winding of more threads in the thread guide.
- Check spring need to be changed.
- Finer threads must be used or to be used heavy needle.
v) Frequent thread breakage:
Thread breaking frequently during sewing.
Causes:
- More tension to the bobbin threads or more rotating of bobbin.
- Wrong fitting of bobbin case.
Remedies:
- Proper winding of threads on to the bobbin.
- The tension must be adjusted to the bobbin threads.
- Checking out the damaging case.
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B. Problem of puckers:
Causes:
- Variable or uneven stretch on fabric plies.
- Fabric dimensional instability.
- Extension of sewing thread.
- Sewing threads shrinkage.
- Fabric construction
- Mismatched patterns.
Remedies:
- Proper feed mechanism should be used with equal ply stretch.
- Fabric shrinkage property must be almost equal.
- Using less tension to the thread.
- Fabric and sewing thread shrinkage% should be equal.
- By reducing stitch density for heavy fabric.
- Pattern should be matched properly.
C. Damage of fabrics on seam line:
Fabrics or threads are damaged along the seam line during sewing.
Causes:
- Mechanical damage.
- Needle heating damage.
Remedies:
- By using perfect size and shape of needle and needle point.
- By testing sew ability before sewing fabrics.
- By flowing cool air on the needle during sewing.
- By using lubricant to the needle and fabrics to the sewing line.
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Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. Mr. Kiron is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.
