Introduction
Garment support devices are often the reason a jacket sits cleanly on the shoulder, a shirt collar stays sharp, or a swimsuit top keeps its shape. These hidden materials provide shape, structure, underpinning, and aid in the construction of garments. Designers choose garment support devices based on the garment’s aesthetic look, fit, type, style, and intended end use. They also need to consider the support structure best suited to the garment application, production, assembly methods, and garment refurbishment.
What Are Garment Support Devices?
Garment support devices are used to improve fit, hold form, and control the way a garment sits on the body. Some are visible only in garment construction, while others may be part of the design itself. They are used in shoulder areas, bust and torso sections, collars, seams, waistlines, hems, and openings where stability or stretch control is needed.
Comparison of Different Garment Support Devices
| Device group | Common examples | Main purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Shoulder support | Shoulder pads, sleeve heads, sleeve puffs | Shape and support the shoulder line and sleeve top |
| Bust and torso support | Bra cups, underwire, separating wire, boning | Support and shape the bust and torso |
| Collar support | Collar stay | Keep collar points and collar shape neat |
| Seam stabilizers | Seam tapes, stays, bias tape, twill tape, seam binding | Reinforce seams, edges, and fold lines |
| Elastic components | Elastic braid, cord, edging, thread, webbing | Add stretch, fit, and recovery |
Shoulder Support Devices
Shoulder shape sets the tone for the whole garment, so this is usually the first place designers adjust structure. Shoulder support devices are used to emphasize, support, or refine the shoulder area and the top of the sleeve. In many garments, these garment support devices decide whether the final look feels soft, tailored, or sharply structured.
Shoulder Pads: Types, Materials, and Uses
A shoulder pad is a shaping device in a triangular or rectangular arc configuration of padding that tapers to a diminishing thickness while maintaining maximum bulk along one edge. Cotton, polyester, and other synthetic fibers form the inner layer of the pad, which may be molded, needle punched, or stitched with outer layers of nonwoven or felt material.
Exposed shoulder pads are covered with a lining material such as tricot or taffeta. Pads that are completely contained within the garment and cannot be seen from the inside are typically left uncovered or raw. Shoulder pads can be stitched into the garment or attached with Velcro for removal. They are available in a variety of sizes, shapes, thicknesses, and weights depending on the desired shape and are sold in minimum quantities of 100 pairs.
Shoulder pad varieties include styles for raglan sleeves, set-in sleeves, and dropped sleeves; sleeve heads and sleeve puffs; uncovered or covered; sew-in or detachable; and versions manufactured to withstand repeated laundering or dry cleaning.
Shoulder pads are used to emphasize or exaggerate the shoulder line of a silhouette, support the shoulders of a garment for correct shaping, and maintain the shoulder area of tailored coats and jackets.
Sleeve Heads
A sleeve head is shoulder pad support made from a narrow strip of felted or nonwoven batting material. It supports and shapes the top portion of the sleeve armhole at the shoulder.
Sleeve Puffs
A sleeve puff is shoulder pad support made from a thin nonwoven material equal to or slightly firmer in handle than the shell fabric. It supports and shapes a gathered or puffed sleeve design.
Bust and Torso Support Devices
Once the shoulder line is settled, attention moves to the bust and torso, where support has to be firm but unobtrusive. Garments manufactured with built-in shaping and support devices for the bust and torso are popular in the marketplace. This part of garment construction is often underestimated in practice, even though it can change the way a garment sits on the body. Among garment support devices, these parts are especially important for strapless, fitted, and structured styles.
Bra Cups: Types and Uses
Bra cups are molded from foam, latex, or synthetic batting, or stitched into rounded conical shapes. They are available covered or uncovered and may be produced as separate cups or constructed as one unit. Bra cups are sized the same as brassieres and sold with order minimums starting at 100 pairs.
Bra cup styles include full cup, push-up full cup, demi cup or half pad, push-up demi cup or half pad push-up, rounded seamless, contour, filler pad, tear drop, seamless push-up, underwire bra, and athletic wear and swimwear cups.
Bra cups are used to shape swimsuit tops and brassieres, support the shape of strapless garments, and support garments where separate bras would detract from the garment appearance.
Underwire: Bust Support and Shape
Lingerie underwire is stainless steel wire or plastic boning shaped like a U and inserted into some brassieres and garments with built-in bras to provide firm support and shape to the bustline. Underwires are sold in pairs by the gross and by bra cup sizes.
Separating Wire
Lingerie separating wire is stainless steel wire or plastic boning shaped like a U or V, where the ends flare in, flare out, or are formed straight, and inserted into the center front of some brassieres, swimwear, and eveningwear. It provides firm support and separation of the bustline and shapes the neckline of strapless garments. Separating wires are sold by the gross and sized by width and length.
Boning (Stay Strip)
Boning is a firm yet flexible nylon strip, 1/8 inch to 3.4 inches (3.2 to 19 mm) wide, concealed in a casing, or a flat, lightweight, flexible strip of stainless steel or plastic used to support the bust or torso. Boning can be applied to princess line seams, darts, center front or center back seams, collars, or other garment seams. Metal or plastic strips used for boning are available in premeasured lengths by the gross or put up on rolls of 150 yards (137 m).
Boning is used to support strapless bodies, built-up waistlines, or high-standing collars; prevent crushing of a cummerbund or rolling and crushing of wide-shaped belts; stiffen and maintain the shape of corsets or bodices; maintain exaggerated silhouettes of dome skirts; and produce a hoop skirt silhouette in petticoats, evening gowns, and bridal gowns.
Collar Support Devices
Collars need their own support, especially in tailored garments where crisp points matter. Collar support is one of the simplest garment support devices, but it has a strong effect on the finished appearance.
Collar Stays
A collar stay is a flat, narrow plastic or metal supporting strip rounded to a soft point at one end and slid into a stitched pocket or casing on the underside of a shirt collar. Collar stays can be printed with a brand name or logo and are sold by the gross.
Collar stays are used to maintain the shape of collar points on tailored shirts, prevent the end points of a collar from twisting, turning, or curling, support and maintain the shape of stand-up collars, and support pointed shirt cuffs.
Seam Stabilizers: Tapes, Stays, and Bindings
From there, the focus shifts to seams, edges, and fold lines that need stabilization. Seam tapes and stays are strips of material in predetermined lengths and widths measured to accommodate garment areas that need support. They are available in fusible and sew-in varieties. In practice, these garment support devices are often the difference between a seam that holds and one that distorts over time.
Seam tapes and stays are used to reinforce seam construction in areas subjected to strain in order to prevent fabric tearing or breakage; reinforce curved crotch seams of pants, trousers, and shorts; stabilize curved seams of sleeves such as dolman, batwing, and raglan styles; cover seams to ensure comfort and wearability in unlined garments where fabric may cause skin irritation; prevent bias seams or edges from stretching; stabilize fold lines where facings and garments are cut in one; reinforce corners of slashes, plackets, gussets, and godets; prevent stretching and distortion of waistlines; and stabilize waistlines of skirts to facilitate later construction operations.
Bias Tape
Bias tape is a bias-cut, plain weave strip of material, available in various widths with two prefolded 1/4-inch (6.4 cm) edges, one of which is applied to the hem edge prior to hemming the garment. It is manufactured in cotton, rayon, silk, or synthetic fibers, with prefolded edges in finished widths from 3/8 inch to 3 inches (9.5 to 38.1 mm), and is available in single-fold or double-fold varieties. It is sold in 100-yard or 100-meter roll put-ups.
Bias tape is used on seams and hems to conceal raw edges of fabrics that unravel easily, on hems that require stretch and flexibility, and on garments made of heavy fabrics where a self hem fold would create too much bulk.
Twill Tape
Twill tape is a firmly woven twill-weave ribbon, 1/4 to 1 inch (6.3 to 35.4 mm) wide, made from natural or synthetic fibers and sold in 100-yard or 100-meter roll put-ups. It is used as a reinforcing strip for stayed seams or taped seams and for stabilization at fold lines of one-piece extended facings, extended pockets, slashed seams, or straight-edge closures.
Lace Seam Binding
Lace seam binding is a stretch or nonstretch lace ribbon produced in a variety of patterns, available in 2-inch (5-cm) widths to be applied as hem facing. It is made with natural or synthetic fibers to be compatible with the garment fabric and sold in 100-yard or 100-meter roll put-ups.
Lace seam binding is used on hems in place of seam tape or bias binding, on facing edges, and at the garment edge or as a decorative detail insert.
Ribbon Seam Binding
Ribbon seam binding is a narrow, lightweight ribbon of natural or synthetic yarns, about 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) in width. It is produced in a variety of synthetic fibers for compatibility with the garment fabric and is available in a bias cut to sew with ease around curved edges. It is sold in 100-yard or 100-meter roll put-ups.
Ribbon seam binding is used as a finish for hem edges, straight-edge facings, and seams; as a reinforcing strip for taped seams; as a stay at seams and waistlines; as a stay for gathering and shirring; and as a stay at fold lines of extended seams and facings.
Elastic in Garments: Types and Uses
Elastic works a little differently. It has to stretch, recover, and still keep the garment under control. Elastic is thread, cord, braided or woven ribbon, or fabric that has resilience and flexibility. It is processed from spandex, latex, or rubber fiber that is cut, extruded, or rolled into cores, wrapped, and braided or woven; it may also be produced in flat, thin uncovered bands or strips.
The stretchable core may be left raw or covered with cotton, nylon, polyester, polypropylene, or fiber-blended yarns. The amount of pliancy in elastic is determined by the fiber content, size, core, method of weaving or braiding, or intended use. Webbing or woven elastic retains its original width when stretched, whereas braided elastic becomes narrower as it is stretched.
Both types may be applied to garments in different ways. Elastic may be applied directly to a garment by lock, zigzag, or overedge stitch formations or enclosed in a casing. Elasticized shirring is made with multiple rows of elastic. Special-purpose elastics are required for pajamas, lingerie, loungewear, swimwear, and undergarments.
The type of elastic selected depends on garment construction, elastic width, fiber content of the garment, gripping power, fabric weight and compatibility, garment type and style, garment use, garment care, and figure or body type and size range.
Decorative Elastic Band
Decorative elastic band is a woven or braided strip, 1 to 3 inches (2.5 to 7.6 cm) in finished width, cut to a predetermined length and applied to draw in a garment edge. It is available in solid colors, prints, and geometric designs and put up on 100-yard or 100-meter rolls. The degree of elasticity varies by fiber, weave, braid, and manufacturing method.
Decorative elastic band is used as a design detail or fitting element at the waistline, edge of sleeves, neckline, bottom of shorts or pant legs, or skirt hem; as a waistband insert; and as a means for fitting garments spanning more than one size range.
Elastic Braid
Elastic braid is a premeasured length of elastic, ribbon, or rib-type braid applied to draw up predetermined fullness to fit body measurements. It varies from 1/4 inch to 3 inches in width and is put up on 100-yard or 100-meter rolls. Type and size are selected based on the garment style and fabric.
The degree of elasticity, type of yarn, and hand produced in braid construction determine the intended application. Elastic braid is available in soft or hard stretch. It is used as the inside ply of waistbands, in self or applied casings or directly applied to garments; as a means for fitting garments without darts or plackets, or those spanning more than one size range; and as decorative design detail at the edge of garments or spanning garment sections.
Non-Roll Ribbed Elastic
Nonroll ribbed elastic is a rib-patterned, noncurling core of rubber or spandex sheathed in natural or synthetic yarn, woven or braided 3/4 inch to 2 inches (1.9 to 5.1 cm) in width and put up on 100-yard or 100-meter rolls. It is used in concealed waistbands or applied directly to garments, as well as in self or applied casings.
Elastic Cord
Elastic cord is a round or oval gimp-covered core of elastic sewn directly to the garment or enclosed in the bite of patterned machine stitches. It is available in a variety of diameters and expandability and put up on 100-yard or 100-meter rolls.
It is used on garment edges of sleeves, pant legs, or waistlines; on garments to produce a ruffle or flounce effect; on garments in individual strands where delicate lines of gathering or multiple strands produce elasticized shirring; on waistlines of one-piece garments; on necklines, hem openings, and waistbands of infants’ and children’s wear; and on bodies for smocking.
Decorative Elastic (Fancy Elastic)
Decorative elastic, or fancy elastic, is a thread-covered elastic core woven, knitted, or braided into a soft strip or band in a variety of widths and patterns. It may be woven with a picot finish along one or both edge lengths and can also be made in stretchable lace patterns. This type of elastic is softer than others and results in a less restrictive garment.
Decorative elastic is used as a means of fitting waistlines and leg openings of infants’ and children’s wear and intimate apparel, and as edging on bras, bodysuits, and shapewear.
Elastic Edging (Picot/Scallop)
Elastic edging is a yarn- or thread-covered elastic core woven, knitted, or braided into a ribbon with a scalloped, picot, or other decorative edge along one or both lengths. It can be applied on the outside or inside of a garment to extend beyond a garment edge. Elastic edging is made in widths up to 1/16 inch (1.6 cm) and put up on 100-yard or 100-meter rolls.
It is used where other elastic may interfere with garment comfort, where casings are not practical, and where decorative edges at the waist, neck, sleeve, or leg opening are desired.
Elastic Thread
Elastic thread is stretchable thread made of rubber or spandex wound and covered with cotton, synthetic, blended, or metallic yarn. It is firm and pliable with maximum stretch and recovery. It is put up on cones and designated by weight in grams rather than yards.
Elastic thread is used in single or multiple rows to produce elasticized shirring, waffle shirring, an elasticized waistline, or a shirred ribbon decorative waistband. The amount of control for elasticized shirring or gathering is determined by the length of the stitch, type and expandability of the elastic, and the number and spacing of parallel rows of stitching and their interrelationship with the fabric. It is also used to fit garments designed to accommodate more than one size range.
Clear Elastic (Invisible)
Clear elastic is a transparent tape providing support and stability at seams or as a strap without detracting from the garment design. This type of elastic has low stretch. It is made in finished widths of 1/4 to 3/4 inch (6.4 to 9.5 mm) and put up on 100-yard or 100-meter rolls.
Clear elastic is used as tape in shoulders or necklines of garments made of lightweight knit fabric, as hanger tapes to secure garments on hangers, and as invisible straps when fabric straps would detract from the garment design.
Elastic Webbing
Elastic webbing is a soft, woven elastic band, 3/4 inch to 1 1/4 inches (19 to 32 mm) in finished width, cut to a predetermined length and put up on 100-yard or 100-meter rolls. The woven construction allows the webbing to maintain its original width when stretched.
Elastic webbing is used on inside waistlines of boxer shorts, athletic shorts, and pajamas, and on garments spanning more than one size.
Swimwear Elastic
Elastic for swimwear has a spandex core covered with nylon or polyester and is braided or woven into a band or ribbon with or without a decorative edge. It is manufactured in widths and sizes for the leg, waist, bra, and neckline openings of garments. The width is chosen by location and application to the garment.
Swimwear elastic is used as edging at the top, waist, or leg openings of swimwear to retain resilience when wet.
Buttonhole Elastic
Buttonhole elastic tape has buttonholes positioned parallel with the finished edges of the tape at regular intervals. Whichever buttonhole offers the best fit is looped around a button sewn into the waistband. It is available in widths ranging from 1/2 to 1 inch (13 to 25 mm) and put up on 100-yard or 100-meter rolls.
Buttonhole elastic tape is used to provide a means for adjusting stable waistband casings in children’s or maternity garments.
Drawstring Elastic
Drawstring elastic is elastic waistband webbing constructed with a drawstring inserted in the middle of the band and put up on 100-yard or 100-meter rolls. It is used to allow some fit to the waistline before the drawstring is engaged.
Non-Slip-Backed Elastic
Non-slip-backed elastic is elastic waistband webbing constructed with rows of rubber yarn on one surface or embossed or printed silicone adhered, woven, or knitted in to produce a nonslip surface on the waistband. It is used on trousers and skirt waistbands to hold tuck-in blouses and shirts in place.
Conclusion
Taken together, these garment support devices do the quiet work that gives garments their outline, stability, and finish. Shoulder pads, cups, wires, boning, stays, tapes, and elastics each solve a different construction need, yet they all help the garment sit better on the body. The right choice depends on fabric, garment type, care, fit, and the look the designer wants to hold. As garment styles and production methods continue to change, these small components will remain central to reliable apparel construction.
Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. Mr. Kiron is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.
