How to Hem a Dress: A Step-by-Step Guide

How to Hem a Dress: A Step-by-Step Guide

Shubham Anil Jain
Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Limited
Bangalore, India
Email: shubhamajain125@gmail.com

 

What is Hem a Dress?
Hemming a dress provides the skirt the finishing touch it needs to be finished and gives it a sharp, finished edge. The word “hem,” which has a long history, originally meant to hold in, fold, or tidy up something. With today’s advanced sewing techniques, a hem is in charge of neatly completing the edge or border of a portion of a garment. Sewing the skirt with a hem is the final step in a dress-making project. The hem is available to many various forms, including functional, decorative, short, long, and even scalloped. Always finish the garment before finishing the hem, as a general rule. Pleating or adding ruffles to hems is an exception to the rule.

how to hem a dress

Step by Step Guide to Hem a Dress:

Step 1: Measurement and Cutting
The garment is typically finished at the hem. Before cutting and stitching the hem, let the dress hang overnight to let any stretch or fullness drop.

Measurement and Cutting to hem a dress

a) Measure – To begin, put the dress on and determine the appropriate length for the skirt. There is no set rule here for where the skirt should end because every dress and every body type is unique. Think on your body’s natural contours and your personal comfort level.

b) Add seam allowance – For the hem seam allowance, add at least 1 to 2 inches (2 to 5 cm) of cloth below the desired hem length.

c) Cutting- Use a sharp pair of scissors to cut along the entire hem allowance line, being careful to cut straight.

Step 2: Press the hem
Remove the garment and flip it inside out before beginning to press and sew the hem once you are satisfied with the length.

Press the hem

a) Press over twice – The raw edge of the hem should be turned over twice in order to achieve a perfectly contained hem. An example of this is a double fold hem.

b) Width – The width of the double hem fold need not be identical. It is possible for the initial turnover to be little and the second turnover to be larger. A double fold gives the hem some weight and covers the raw edge to prevent fraying.

Step 3: Pin and double check
Then carefully pin the turned-up portion of the hem in place after measuring all the way around to ensure its accuracy. If required, ease the hem on the curves and use vertical pins to secure the garment. Depending on your degree of experience, you can also bast the hem or use pins.  To ensure the hem is the proper length, do one final fitting.

pin a hem

Step 4: Stitch the hem
The hem’s edge should be straight stitched. Depending on the type and thickness of your fabric, you should choose a stitch length of 2.5.

Stitch the hem

Step 5: Finishing
Due to the fact that some textiles require time to settle, let the hem “drop” or level out.  Enjoy the skirt’s flair and drape after pressing the hem.

finish the hem

Basic Types of Hems:
An introduction to a few popular hem kinds and sewing patterns is provided here.

1. Double fold hem:
The double fold hem, as the name implies, requires folding your fabric twice and pressing each time to give your hemming a fray-free and polished finish. Use the double-fold hem for goods with straight edges or for a pair of trousers.

2. Blind hem:
The blind hem stitch is almost imperceptible to the naked eye. When the sewing is finished, the stitching on the fabric’s right side won’t be easy to see.

3. Zigzag hem:
To make this overlocking stitch, choose the zigzag option on your sewing machine or use a serger. Since the zig-zag stitch is more durable, it is a good choice for clothing that is bulkier, like coats and jackets.

4. Rolled hem:
This small hem is perfect for garments made of thin fabric, such tunics, blouses, and scarves. Curved hemlines can also benefit from the rolled hem. This method of sewing creates a delicate finish by tucking the fabric’s edge into the hem.

You may also like: Seam Allowance: A Beginner’s Guide to Sewing Seams

Conclusion:
The simple sewing activity of hemming enables you to customize your apparel. Learn how to use a sewing machine to hem trousers, shirts and other types of clothes. Making your own hems is a simple DIY activity to ensure that your clothing fits perfectly. Use a sewing machine to adjust a hemline to save going to the tailor. This method of hemming shows how to create a double fold hem, a typical kind of straight stitch. As mentioned, you can either use a sewing machine or utilize this method to hand stitch.

References:

  1. https://www.wikihow.com/Hem-a-Dress-by-Hand
  2. https://yousewandsew.com/how-to-hem-a-dress-with-a-sewing-machine/
  3. https://yousewandsew.com/hemming-a-dress-by-hand/
  4. https://blog.treasurie.com/hemming-a-dress/
  5. https://www.masterclass.com/articles/how-to-sew-a-hem

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