Costing of Solid Dyed Fabric Stitch and Non-Stitch
(As a Practical E x perience)
Mohammad Mahbubur Rahman (Maya)
M.Sc. in Te x tile Engineering
AGM, M.Hossain Cotton Spinning Mills Ltd
Email: sebabd@ymail.com
What is Solid Dyed Fabric?
Color fabrics are two types, yarn dyed and fabric dyed or solid dyed fabric. Solid dyed fabrics are dyed with the piece dyeing method, and the materials are also called piece dyed. In this case, piece dyeing is used for solid fabric where the fabric is dyed after weaving or knitting. Generally solid dyed fabric doesn’t have good color fastness compared to yarn-dyed. In this article I will discuss costing of solid dyed fabric for both stitch and non-stitch.
Costing of Solid Dyed Fabric Stitch:
| Con- struction | Warp Count | 20 | 40 |
| Weft Count | 16 | 40 | |
| EPI | 128 | 120 | |
| PPI | 60 | 80 | |
| Blend | CTN | CTN | |
| Design | 1 / 1 Plain | 1 / 1 Plain | |
| Width” | 52 | 52 | |
| Nominal Total Ends | EPI x Width = 128 x 52 = 6656 | EPI x Width = 120 x 52 = 6240 | |
| Selvedge Size | 20 | 20 | |
| Ends / Selvedge (mm) | (EPI x Selvedge size) / 25.4 = (128 x 20) / 25.4 = 101 | (EPI x Selvedge size) / 25.4 = (120 x 20) / 25.4 = 94 | |
| Actual Total Ends | (Nominal T. ends + ends selvedge) = 6656 + 101 = 6757 | 6240 + 94 = 6334 | |
| Reed Count | EPI x 0.91 = 128 x 0.91 = 92 | 120 x 0.91 = 86 | |
| Reed Space | (Act. T. ends) / Reed count + 5 = (6757 / 92) + 5 = 78.32 | (6334 / 86) + 5 = 78.32 | |
| Warp wt. (lbs / yds) | (Act. T. ends) / 840 / Count = (6757 / 840 / 20) = 0.182 | (6334 / 840 / 40) = 0.086 | |
| Weft wt. (lbs / yds) | (Reed Space x PPI) / (840 x Count) = (78.32 x 60) / (840 x 16) = 0.159 | (78.32 x 80) / (840 x 40) = 0.085 | |
| Shrinkage% Warp | 17% | 17% | |
| Allowance 3% waste weft | 1% | 1% | |
| Wt. (lbs) | Warp | Warp wt. + (warp wt. x shrinkage %) = 0.182 + 0.182 x 17% = 0.231 | 0.086 + 0.086 x 17% = 0.100 |
| Weft | Warp wt. + (warp wt. x shrinkage %) = 0.159 + 0.159 x 17% = 0.160 | 0.085 + 0.085 x 17% = 0.085 | |
| Wt. / Yds | Warp wt. + weft wt. = 0.231 + 0.160 = 0.374 | 0.100 + 0.085 = 0.185 | |
| Dyeing Allowance | 10% | 10% | |
| Dyeing Warp (kg) | wt. Warp x Allowance = 0.182 x 10% = 0.021 | 0.100 x 10% = 0.010 | |
| Dyeing Weft (kg) | Wt. weft x Allowance = 0.16 x 10% = 0.016 | 0.085 x 10% = 0.009
| |
| Total Wt (lbs) | Warp | Warp wt. + Dyeing warp = 0.231 + 0.021 = 0.235 | 0.100 + 0.009 = 0.110 |
| Weft | Weft wt. + Dyeing weft = 0.160 + 0.016 = 0.176 | 0.085 + 0.009 = 0.094 | |
| Total Wt. (lbs / yds) | T. wt. warp + T. wt. weft = 0.235 + 0.176 = 0.411 | 0.110 + 0.094 = 0.204 | |
| Yarn Price | Warp | 230 | 230 |
| Weft | 205 | 205 | |
| Yarn Cost (m) | Warp | Yarn price x T. wt = 230 x 0.411 = 94.53 | 230 x 0.204 = 46.92 |
| Weft | Yarn price x T. wt = 205 x 0.411 = 84.26 | 205 x 0.204 = 41.82 | |
| Yarn Cost / yds | Yarn cost warp + weft = 94.53 + 84.26 = 178.79 | 46.92 + 41.82 = 88.74 | |
| Loom Rent / day | 6000 | 6000 | |
| PPM | 540 | 540 | |
| Production / day (100% eff) | (PPM x 60 x 24) / (36 x PPI) = (540 x 60 x 24) / (36 x 60) = 360 | (540 x 60 x 24) / (36 x 80) = 270 | |
| Production / day (85% eff) | Production / day (100%) x 0.85 = 360 x 0.85 = 306 | 270 x 0.85 = 230 | |
| Weaving Charge | Weaving Charge / Pick rate | (Loom Rent / day) / ( Prodn. 85% x PPI) = 6000 / (306 x 60) = 0.326 | 6000 / (230 x 80) = 0.326 |
| Weaving Charge / mtr rate | PPI x Per Pick rate = 60 x 0.326 = 19.56 | 80 x 0.326 = 26.08 | |
| Per yds Grey Fabric rate | Yarn cost / yds + Weaving Charge / mtr rate = 178.79 + 19.56 = 198.35 | 88.74 + 26.08 = 114.82 |
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Costing of Solid Dyed Fabric Non-Stitch:
| Con- struction | Warp Count | 60 | 30 |
| Weft Count | 50 | 20 | |
| EPI | 184 | 152 | |
| PPI | 80 | 75 | |
| Blend | CTN | CTN | |
| Design | 2 / 1 | 2 / 1 | |
| Width” | 57 | 57 | |
| Nominal Total Ends | EPI x Width = 184 x 57 = 10488 | EPI x Width = 152 x 57 = 8664 | |
| Selvedge Size | 10 | 10 | |
| Ends / Selvedge (mm) | (EPI x Selvedge size) / 25.4 = (184 x 10) = 72 | (EPI x Selvedge size) / 25.4 = (152 x 10) / 25.4 = 60 | |
| Actual Total Ends | (Nominal T. ends + ends selvedge) = 10488 + 72 = 10560 | 8664 + 60 = 8724 | |
| Reed Count | EPI x 0.91 = 184 x 0.91 = 167 | 152 x 0.91 = 138 | |
| Reed Space | (Act. T. ends) / Reed count + 5 = (10560 / 167) + 5 = 68.23 | (8724 / 138) + 5 = 68.23 | |
| Warp wt. (lbs / yds) | (Act. T. ends) / 840 / Count = (10560 / 840 / 60) = 0.21 | (8664 / 840 / 30) = 0.343 | |
| Weft wt. (lbs / yds) | (Reed Space x PPI) / (840 x Count) = (68.23 x 80) / (840 x 50) = 0.13 | (68.23 x 75) / (840 x 20) = 0.304 | |
| Shrinkage % Warp | 18% | 18% | |
| Allowance 3% waste weft | 1% | 1% | |
| Wt. (lbs) | Warp | Warp wt. + (warp wt. x shrinkage %) = 0.21 + 0.21 x 18% = 0.247 | 0.343 + 0.343 x 18% = 0.408 |
| Weft | Warp wt. + (warp wt. x shrinkage %) = 0.13 + 0.13 x 18% = 0.153 | 0.304 + 0.304 x 18% = 0.358 | |
| Wt. / Yds | Warp wt. + weft wt. = 0.247 + 0.153 = 0.40 | 0.408 + 0.358 = 0.766 | |
| Dyeing Allowance | 5% | 5% | |
| Dyeing Warp (kg) | wt. Warp x Allowance = 0.247 x 5% = 0.0124 | 0.408 x 5% = 0.0204 | |
| Dyeing Weft (kg) | Wt. weft x Allowance = 0.153 x 5% = 0.0077 | 0.358 x 5% = 0.0179
| |
| Total Wt (lbs) | Warp | Warp wt. + Dyeing warp = 0.247 + 0.0124 = 0.259 | 0.358 + 0.0204 = 0.428 |
| Weft | Weft wt. + Dyeing weft = 0.153 + 0.0077 = 0.1607 | 0.358 + 0.0179 = 0.375 | |
| Total Wt. (lbs / yds) | T. wt. warp + T. wt. weft = 0.259 + 0.1607 = 0.419 | 0.428 + 0.375 = 0.803 | |
| Yarn Price | Warp | 180 | 140 |
| Weft | 135 | 85 | |
| Yarn Cost (m) | Warp | Yarn price x T. wt = 180 x 0.259 = 46.62 | 140 x 0.428 = 59.92 |
| Weft | Yarn price x T. wt = 135 x 0.1607 = 21.68 | 85 x 0.375 = 31.875 | |
| Yarn Cost / yds | Yarn cost warp + weft = 46.62 + 21.68 = 68.30 | 59.92 + 31.875 = 91.795 | |
| Loom Rent / day | 6500 | 5500 | |
| PPM | 540 | 540 | |
| Production / day (100% eff) | (PPM x 60 x 24) / (36 x PPI) = (540 x 60 x 24) / (36 x 80) = 270.10 | (540 x 60 x 24) / (36 x 75) = 288 | |
| Production / day (85% eff) | Production / day (100%) x 0.85 = 270.1 x 0.85 = 230 | 288 x 0.85 = 245 | |
| Weaving Charge | Weaving Charge / Pick rate | (Loom Rent / day) / ( Prodn. 85% x PPI) = 6500 / (230 x 80) = 0.353 | 5500 / (245 x 75) = 0.299 |
| Weaving Charge / mtr rate | PPI x Per Pick rate = 80 x 0.353 = 28.24 | 75 x 0.299 = 22.42 | |
| Per yds Grey Fabric rate | Yarn cost / yds + Weaving Charge / mtr rate = 68.30 + 28.24 = 96.54 | 91.795 + 22.42 = 114.22 |
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Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. He is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.
