Costing of Solid Dyed Fabric Stitch and Non-Stitch

Costing of Solid Dyed Fabric Stitch and Non-Stitch
(As a Practical E x perience)
Mohammad Mahbubur Rahman (Maya)
M.Sc. in Te x tile Engineering
AGM, M.Hossain Cotton Spinning Mills Ltd
Email: sebabd@ymail.com

 

What is Solid Dyed Fabric?
Color fabrics are two types, yarn dyed and fabric dyed or solid dyed fabric. Solid dyed fabrics are dyed with the piece dyeing method, and the materials are also called piece dyed. In this case, piece dyeing is used for solid fabric where the fabric is dyed after weaving or knitting. Generally solid dyed fabric doesn’t have good color fastness compared to yarn-dyed. In this article I will discuss costing of solid dyed fabric for both stitch and non-stitch.

Costing of Solid Dyed Fabric

Costing of Solid Dyed Fabric Stitch:

Con-
struction
Warp Count 20 40
Weft Count 16 40
EPI 128 120
PPI 60 80
Blend CTN CTN
Design 1 / 1 Plain 1 / 1 Plain
Width” 52 52
Nominal Total Ends EPI x Width = 128 x 52 = 6656 EPI x Width = 120 x 52 = 6240
Selvedge Size 20 20
Ends / Selvedge (mm) (EPI x Selvedge size) / 25.4 = (128 x 20) / 25.4 = 101 (EPI x Selvedge size) / 25.4 = (120 x 20) / 25.4 = 94
Actual Total Ends (Nominal T. ends + ends selvedge) = 6656 + 101 = 6757 6240 + 94 = 6334
Reed Count EPI x 0.91 = 128 x 0.91 = 92 120 x 0.91 = 86
Reed Space (Act. T. ends) / Reed count + 5 = (6757 / 92) + 5 = 78.32 (6334 / 86) + 5 = 78.32
Warp wt. (lbs / yds) (Act. T. ends) / 840 / Count = (6757 / 840 / 20) = 0.182 (6334 / 840 / 40) = 0.086
Weft wt. (lbs / yds) (Reed Space x PPI) / (840 x Count) = (78.32 x 60) / (840 x 16) = 0.159 (78.32 x 80) / (840 x 40) = 0.085
Shrinkage% Warp 17% 17%
Allowance 3% waste weft 1% 1%
Wt. (lbs) Warp Warp wt. + (warp wt. x shrinkage %) = 0.182 + 0.182 x 17% = 0.231 0.086 + 0.086 x 17% = 0.100
Weft Warp wt. + (warp wt. x shrinkage %) = 0.159 + 0.159 x 17% = 0.160 0.085 + 0.085 x 17% = 0.085
Wt. / Yds Warp wt. + weft wt. = 0.231 + 0.160 = 0.374 0.100 + 0.085 = 0.185
Dyeing  Allowance 10% 10%
Dyeing Warp (kg) wt. Warp x Allowance = 0.182 x 10% = 0.021 0.100 x 10% = 0.010
Dyeing Weft (kg) Wt. weft x Allowance = 0.16 x 10% = 0.016 0.085 x 10% = 0.009

 

Total Wt (lbs) Warp Warp wt. + Dyeing warp = 0.231 + 0.021 = 0.235 0.100 + 0.009 = 0.110
Weft Weft wt. + Dyeing weft = 0.160 + 0.016 = 0.176 0.085 + 0.009 = 0.094
Total Wt. (lbs / yds) T. wt. warp + T. wt. weft = 0.235 + 0.176 = 0.411 0.110 + 0.094 = 0.204
Yarn Price Warp 230 230
Weft 205 205
Yarn Cost (m) Warp Yarn price x T. wt = 230 x 0.411 = 94.53 230 x 0.204 = 46.92
Weft Yarn price x T. wt = 205 x 0.411 = 84.26 205 x 0.204 = 41.82
Yarn Cost / yds Yarn cost warp + weft = 94.53 + 84.26 = 178.79 46.92 + 41.82 = 88.74
Loom Rent / day 6000 6000
PPM 540 540
Production / day (100%  eff) (PPM x 60 x 24) / (36 x PPI) = (540 x 60 x 24) / (36 x 60) = 360 (540 x 60 x 24) / (36 x 80) = 270
Production / day (85%  eff) Production / day (100%) x 0.85 = 360 x 0.85 = 306 270 x 0.85 = 230
Weaving Charge Weaving Charge / Pick rate (Loom Rent / day) / ( Prodn. 85% x PPI) = 6000 / (306 x 60) = 0.326 6000 / (230 x 80) = 0.326
Weaving Charge / mtr rate PPI x Per Pick rate = 60 x 0.326 = 19.56 80 x 0.326 = 26.08
Per yds Grey Fabric rate Yarn cost / yds + Weaving Charge / mtr rate = 178.79 + 19.56 = 198.35 88.74 + 26.08 = 114.82

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Costing of Solid Dyed Fabric Non-Stitch:

Con-
struction
Warp Count 60 30
Weft Count 50 20
EPI 184 152
PPI 80 75
Blend CTN CTN
Design 2 / 1 2 / 1
Width” 57 57
Nominal Total Ends EPI x Width = 184 x 57 = 10488 EPI x Width = 152 x 57 = 8664
Selvedge Size 10 10
Ends / Selvedge (mm) (EPI x Selvedge size) / 25.4 = (184 x 10) = 72 (EPI x Selvedge size) / 25.4 = (152 x 10) / 25.4 = 60
Actual Total Ends (Nominal T. ends + ends selvedge) = 10488 + 72 = 10560 8664 + 60 = 8724
Reed Count EPI x 0.91 = 184 x 0.91 = 167 152 x 0.91 = 138
Reed Space (Act. T. ends) / Reed count + 5 = (10560 / 167) + 5 = 68.23 (8724 / 138) + 5 = 68.23
Warp wt. (lbs / yds) (Act. T. ends) / 840 / Count = (10560 / 840 / 60) = 0.21 (8664 / 840 / 30) = 0.343
Weft wt. (lbs / yds) (Reed Space x PPI) / (840 x Count) = (68.23 x 80) / (840 x 50) = 0.13 (68.23 x 75) / (840 x 20) = 0.304
Shrinkage % Warp 18% 18%
Allowance 3% waste weft 1% 1%
Wt. (lbs) Warp Warp wt. + (warp wt. x shrinkage %) = 0.21 + 0.21 x 18% = 0.247 0.343 + 0.343 x 18% = 0.408
Weft Warp wt. + (warp wt. x shrinkage %) = 0.13 + 0.13 x 18% = 0.153 0.304 + 0.304 x 18% = 0.358
Wt. / Yds Warp wt. + weft wt. = 0.247 + 0.153 = 0.40 0.408 + 0.358 = 0.766
Dyeing  Allowance 5% 5%
Dyeing Warp (kg) wt. Warp x Allowance = 0.247 x 5% = 0.0124 0.408 x 5% = 0.0204
Dyeing Weft (kg) Wt. weft x Allowance = 0.153 x 5% = 0.0077 0.358 x 5% = 0.0179

 

Total Wt (lbs) Warp Warp wt. + Dyeing warp = 0.247 + 0.0124 = 0.259 0.358 + 0.0204 = 0.428
Weft Weft wt. + Dyeing weft = 0.153 + 0.0077 = 0.1607 0.358 + 0.0179 = 0.375
Total Wt. (lbs / yds) T. wt. warp + T. wt. weft = 0.259 + 0.1607 = 0.419 0.428 + 0.375 = 0.803
Yarn Price Warp 180 140
Weft 135 85
Yarn Cost (m) Warp Yarn price x T. wt = 180 x 0.259 = 46.62 140 x 0.428 = 59.92
Weft Yarn price x T. wt = 135 x 0.1607 = 21.68 85 x 0.375 = 31.875
Yarn Cost / yds Yarn cost warp + weft = 46.62 + 21.68 = 68.30 59.92 + 31.875 = 91.795
Loom Rent / day 6500 5500
PPM 540 540
Production / day (100%  eff) (PPM x 60 x 24) / (36 x PPI) = (540 x 60 x 24) / (36 x 80) = 270.10 (540 x 60 x 24) / (36 x 75) = 288
Production / day (85%  eff) Production / day (100%) x 0.85 = 270.1 x 0.85 = 230 288 x 0.85 = 245
Weaving Charge Weaving Charge / Pick rate (Loom Rent / day) / ( Prodn. 85% x PPI) = 6500 / (230 x 80) = 0.353 5500 / (245 x 75) = 0.299
Weaving Charge / mtr rate PPI x Per Pick rate = 80 x 0.353 = 28.24 75 x 0.299 = 22.42
Per yds Grey Fabric rate Yarn cost / yds + Weaving Charge / mtr rate = 68.30 + 28.24 = 96.54 91.795 + 22.42 = 114.22

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