Moireing in Textile: Types, Characteristics and End Uses of Moire Fabric

Moireing in Textile: Types, Characteristics and End Uses of Moire Fabric

Md. Amir Khasru
B.Sc. in Textile Engineering
Department of Yarn Engineering, SARSTEC
Email: santo.amirkhasru2002@gmail.com

 

Introduction:
Moiré is the French term for the wavy or watery look created by pressing layers of silk together at an angle, resulting in a moiré pattern. In Mathematics, physics, art, and printing moire defined as a design name that is developed by overlapping two transparent pieces of paper or patterns. In textiles finishing, moireing is the textile finishing process used to give silk-like looks and softness to the fabric. The moireing process is done by mechanical and physical processes applied on the fabric surface. The world of fashion is going to upgrade day by day, and a new finishing process of fabric is being developed. In general, we would like to wear silk fabric dresses for their smart looks and good appearance but we also like cheap cotton-like comfortable dresses. To solve this type of problem too many new fabric is developed but newly discovered fabric prices are high compared to others. If we want to lead the fast fashion then we have to produce a dress at a cheap rate and the solution is moireing finishing.

Moire Pattern
Figure: Moire Pattern

History of Moire, Moire Fabric:
Historically, we found that the moire pattern was discovered first on silk fabric surfaces. Having this pattern of silk fabric shows extra luster and is more attractive. Once upon a time, silk was the clothing of princes, princes, and royal family members because of its appearance and production cost. Day by day demand for silk is increasing, and then the garments industry is starting to think about the option of silk fabric at a cheap price, which will give an appearance like silk. Then a mechanical finishing process is discovered in the calendaring process with the help of the ribbed roller, high pressure, and high temperature. Applying the moire finishing process to cotton, polyester, cotton blends, and other fabrics shows extra luster.

Methods of Moireing:
The fabric moire is done in many different finishing methods. Moire antique and moire anglaise are two physical phenomena of the calendaring finishing. To give a moire pattern on fabric, a ribbed roller is used to produce the watermark effect during calendaring. The ribbed roller makes the surface smooth, lustery, and polished. High pressure and high temperature are given as mechanical finishing treatments to give the appearance.When fabric passes through the engraved rolls under high pressure and temperature, a watermarked appearance is created on the fabric surface. The crushed and uncrushed markings in the cloth generate distinct light reflections, which create the effect. This can also be accomplished by passing two layers of the same cloth as a “sandwich” through the calendar.

Moiré in Antique Coral
Figure: Moiré in Antique Coral

Characteristics of Moire Fabric:
Moire fabric is sometimes known as watered silk. The surface of the fabric has a distinctive look because to a special finishing technique that applies pressure and heat to the material. This finishing provides the cloth a captivating gloss and texture, as well as a wavy and torn surface.

  1. The exquisite surface appearance of moire cloth is its primary characteristic. The gorgeous sheen that appears on the fabric’s surface when light hits it is evocative of water’s ripples or waves. Adding variation to lighting looks enhances the beauty of interior design.
  2. One of the key characteristics of moire cloth is its versatility. Any fabric, including polyester, rayon, and cotton, may shimmer in the light and have waves like silk.
  3. Distinctive fabric finishing with ribbed structure Sarees, blouses, skirts, and curtains can all be made using textiles that have elegant frills and wrinkles mixed with a pattern.
  4. It is possible to produce desired light visual effects on fabric. Many key features, such as the ability to assign varying effects to distinct lights, are available.
  5. Any fabric may be given a more exquisite and alluring appearance than silk with the moiréing finishing technique.
Moire anglaise
Figure: Moire anglaise

Types of Moire Fabrics:

a) Moire silk: Naturally or traditionally moire with high luster and good pattern on silk is called moire silk.

b) Moire Antique: A particular type of fabric referred to as “moire antique” has a characteristic wavy or watery look that is produced by the finishing process known as “calendering.” The fabric is folded in half along its length, selvedges running side by side and facing side inward. The ribbed rollers are used to polishes the fabric surface in calendaring to make it more lustrous and  smoother.

c) Moire Faille: It is another types of fabrics made by ribbed or corded texture as moire antique. Moire faille fabric is made from more weight fabric. In calendaring, high pressure in ribbed roller with high temperature compared to moire antique which produce weavy pattern in fabric.

Uses of Moire Fabric:

  1. In modern fashion, artificial moire patterns are given to the fabric to make it more attractive and eye-catching. Fast fashion has become a world trend to lead towards treads with matte patters that give more value and appearance at a cheap price in a short time.
  2. In household items, a moire pattern is applied. The moisture pattern in the room cover gives extra luster when light reflects over the fabric.
  3. In our daily lives, we use packaging materials to make the product more attractive. Since, moire pattern on the packaging materials surface are reflect on light and give good look, appearance and so moire pattern use in packing.
  4. Collecting hobby products and displaying them as part of room decoration is a common thing for us. As a part of art and craft, moire fabric is used in room decoration and interior design.
  5. People like to use new and upgraded styles of clothes. Giving a unique pattern to the clothing surface is a common finishing touch for style.
  6. In daily accessories, we use fabrics as their cover. Using moire fabric makes the accessories more lustery and brighter.
  7. For a learner, books are a part of life. To make the book more attractive, it is covered with a light reflective cover.
  8. Making A specially modified design finishing process is important.
  9. To lead the fashion trends, we need to develop more new dresses with good appearance and luster. Moire finishing gives the clothes extra luster and appearance, according to customer demand.

Moire Pattern in Daily Use:
Moire pattern is a watermark-like pattern that was first found in silk fabric. Having bright and attractive light effects on silk’s moire pattern, moire patterns are starting to be added to different types of materials and accessories. Moire pattern is commonly used in interior design. One of them are shown below.

moire pattern in interior design
Figure: Moire pattern in interior design

Conclusion:
For leading the future our textile sector is upgrading day by day. Everyday, newly fabrics are innovated in response to our demand. Moireing is a textile finishing process which give silk like features on the other fabrics.

Image courtesy:

  1. https://www.bandjfabrics.com/fabric/cotton-blend-moire-antique-coral
  2. https://www.topfabric.co.uk/
  3. https://www.moodfabrics.com/
  4. https://interiordesign.net/

References:

  1. ThePhysicsofMoireMetrology by Oded Kafri&Ilana Glatt.
  2. Knitted Apparel Technology Unit-12
  3. https://cottonworks.com/en/encyclopedia-item/moire
  4. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moir%C3%A9_pattern
  5. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moire
  6. What is Moire Fabric, Definition and Uses (textileindustry.net)
  7. https://www.textileglossary.com/terms/moire.html
  8. https://peggyosterkamp.com/2022/06/making-art-with-moire/
  9. https://fortheagesny.com/blogs/news/unveiling-the-enchanting-history-of-moire-fabric

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