Drafting and Cutting Techniques of Dartless Saree Blouse

Drafting Techniques of Dartless Saree Blouse

R.S. Balakumar
Associate Professor
Dept of Fashion Design & Arts
Hindustan University, Chennai, India
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com

Domen are interested to wear fashionable dartless saree blouse. In this front portion darts are eliminated and by means of curves and shape, front bust part is having the good look and fit. Bias cut front will give more comfort to the wearer. Wedding collection, celebrity collection, dartless blouses are very famous. In this article I will show techniques of drafting and cutting of dartless saree blouse.

Suitable fabrics:

Suitable fabrics are cotton, voile, crepe, synthetic, silk.

Material requirement is 1 metre cloth width is 36”.

Measurements: Back length = 14”. Shoulder width = 131/2”. Bust = 34”. Waist = 28”. Sleeve length = 8”. Sleeve girth = 101/2”.

Drafting Details of Dartless Saree Blouse (Back-part):

1-2 = Back length + 1/2”.
2-3 = 11/2”. hem.
1-4 = Bust/6 + 1/2”.
1-5 = 1/2 Shoulder width + 1/2”.
6-5 = Draw a straight line.
7-4 = 1/4th Bust + 1/2’.
8-5 = Front shoulder 21/2” +1=3 ½.
9-5 = 1/2” Shoulder Slope.
10-8 = Draw the straight line.
11-10 = 1 ½” shoulders slope.
12-6 = 1 ¼” at 45 degree.
13-2 = Waist/4+1”.
14-15 = 1/2”. 16 is the middle of 2 to 13.
17-16 = 4 ½”. dart length.
18-19 = 3/4” dart intake.

Allow side inlays extra 1 ½”as per draft.

Drafting Details of Front Part-A:

1-2 = 1/4th Bust measure.
1-3 = 1/6th Bust + 1/4”
1-4 = Shoulder/2 + 1/2’.
5-4 = Draw a straight line.
6-3 = 1/4th Bust + 1/2”.
7-2 = Same as 6 to 3.
8-4 = Front shoulder = 2 ½ + 1 for seam.
9-8 = Draw a straight line.
10-9 = 1 ¼ at 45 degree.
11-4 = 1/2” as per draft.
12-5 = 3/4”.
13-14 = 1/2” inward as per draft.
15-16 = 1 ½ allow the side inlays.

Drafting Details of Front Part-B:

17-18 = 1/4th bust + 1 ½”.
19-17 = Bust/12 + 1/2”.
20-17 = 3/4”.
21-20 = 1/2”.
22-18 = 1 i/4”.
23-17 = 3 ¼” (bust/12 + 1/2)
24-23 = Bust/12 less ½”.
Shape 19 to 20 as per draft and allow side inlays 1 ½”.

Drafting Details of Front Part-C:

25-26 = 1/4th waist = 1/2”.
27-25 = 1/2”.
28-27 = 3/4”.
27-25 = 1/2”.
28-25 = 3/4”.
29-25 = 3 ½”.
30-291/4th waist measure.
31-29 = 1”.
32-30 = 1”.
31-33 = 1/2”.

Allow side inlays 1 ½” as per draft.

Sleeve-cut-2:

1-2 = Sleeve length + 1/2”.
2-3 bottom hem 1 ½”.
1-4 = Bust/8 less ½”.
5-2 = 1/2 Sleeve girth.
6-7 = 3/4”.
8-4=5 to 2 measure + 1”.

9 is mid of 9 to 8.

11-12 = 3/4” down ward as per draft.