History of Women’s Fashion & Dress: The Crinoline Period (1850-1869)

Last Updated on 17/03/2021

History of Women’s Fashion & Dress: The Crinoline Period C.1850-1869

Jahanara Akter
Lecturer, KCC Womens College,
Khulna, Bangladesh

 

Historical Background:
The cage crinoline, the major fashion innovation for women in the1850s. During Romantic period, women used to wear Layers of petticoat, sometimes they are use up to six Layers of petticoat. The increasing width of women’s skirts had led to the use of more and more stiffened petticoat. When the hoop skirts of the 18th century were revived to hold out these voluminous skirts, the editor of peterson’s Magazine hailed its revival in September, 1859. This skirts look like a farthingale. But at this time women started wearing farthingale again. The farthingale had changed, its name was called “crinoline”. This was made out of still. A crinoline is a light still frame work covered with fabric to distend a skirt. In this article I will discuss about women’s fashion & dress of Crinoline period with images.

The cage Crinoline
Fig: The Cage Crinoline

crinoline Petticoat

Women’s Fashion & Dress During Crinoline Period:
Some woman’s costumes are described in below:

A. Undergarments:

Name of costume Fabric Pictures of dress Description
a. Chemise Cotton or linen Chemise A short sleeve, knee length garments, short and full; without much decoration.
b. Drawers Cotton, linen or flannel  crinoline Drawers Knee length drawers were trimmed at edges with tucking, lace or embroidery. In winter some women wore colored, flannel drawers for warmth.
c. Camisole Cotton or linen Crinoline Camisole

 

This waist length a garment was shaped to figure had short sleeve and buttoned down the front.
d. Corset Crinoline Corset Women were shaped with gores of fabric and inset gussets of elastic. After the introduction of the crinoline, corset shorted, when the crinoline declined, corsets become tighter.
e. Hoop (cage crinoline) cotton Crinoline Hoop Steel hoops were sewn onto tapes or fabric skirt. Shapes varied with changes in the fashionable silhouette: 1850s round, 1860s flatter in front and fuller at the back.
f. Petticoats cotton, flannel Crinoline Petticoats A single petticoat decorated with lace, embroidery, or small tucks was placed over the hoop. Additional layers, flannel petticoat worn in winter.

B. Day Time Dresses:
Some woman’s day time costumes are described in below:

1. Bodice:

Fabric: Silk, wool, cotton fabric are used.

Description: Bodice shaping was often achieved through curved seams in back, darts in front. Armholes were placed low on the arm. It is attached by button or hocks.

Crinoline Women´s Bodice
Fig: Women´s Bodice

2. Neckline:

Fabric: Silk, wool, cotton fabric are used.

Description: Neck lines were high, without attached collars and usually finished in bias piping. Removable, washable collars (and cuff) were usually worn with daytime dresses.

Crinoline Necklines

3. Sleeves:

Fabric: Silk, wool, cotton fabric are used.

Description: Most common sleeve styles they were use such as: bell-shaped, pagoda shaped, double-ruffles, close sleeve, men’s coat sleeve etc.

Crinoline sleeve styles

4. Blouses:

Fabric: Silk, wool, cotton fabric are used.

Description: Separate blouses were worn with skirts. The Red Garibaldi Blouse was especially popular in the 1860s.

Crinoline Blouses
Fig: Blouses

5. Skirts:

Fabric: Silk, wool, cotton fabric are used.

Description: In1860s skirts were pyramid shaped.

Doam and Pyramid shaped Skirt in 1860s
Fig: Doam and Pyramid shaped Skirt in 1860s

C. Evening Dress:

1. Neckline:

Fabric: Different types of fabric are used.

Description: Different in dresses worn for evening. In the evening time they also wore daytime dresses. Most evening dresses had “off the shoulder” neckline, either straight across or with a dip at the center.

Crinoline Off The Shoulder Evening dress for women
Fig: Off shoulder evening dress for women

2. Sleeve:

Fabric: Different types of fabric are used.

Description: They use short sleeve, straight sleeve and sleeveless dress.

Crinoline Sleeve
Fig: Sleeve

3. Skirts: 

Fabric: Different types of fabric are used.

Description: Double skirts might have decorative effect created by looping or puffing up the outer layer. Skirts were trimmed with artificial flowers, ribbons, rosettes or lace.

Crinoline Skirts
Fig: Skirts were trimmed with artificial flower

D. Outdoor Garments:

1. Sleeve: Sleeved, fitted and unfitted coats of varying lengths.

crinoline sleeve
Fig: Sleeve

2. Mantle: A cloak-like garment worn mainly by women as fashionable outerwear. Three-quarter length coat fitted to waist in front, full at the back, with long loose sleeves.

crinoline Mantle
Fig: Mantle

3. Shawl-mantle: Loose cloak, reaching almost to the skirt hem.

Shawl mantle from 1869
Fig: Shawl mantle from 1869

4. Talma-mantle: Full cloak with tasseled hood or flat collar.

crinoline Talma-mantle
Fig: Talma-mantle

E. Hair and Head Dress:

1. Hair: Women generally parted their hair in the center and drew it over the ears smoothly or in waves or plaits back of the head.

Women's hair style in 1851,1860
Fig: Women’s hair style in 1851,1860

2. Head coverings: Small muslin “day caps” with long lappets or ribbons which were still worn by some older and married ladies. Hair nets, of colored silk snoods and bonnets, small hats, flat crowns continued to be worn.

Day cap or Indoor cap, 1866 and Bonnet, 1850.
Fig: Day cap or Indoor cap, 1866 and Bonnet, 1850.

F. Foot Wears:

1. Stockings: A stocking (also known as hose, especially in a historical context) is a close-fitting, variously elastic garment covering the foot and lower part of the leg. Stockings vary in color, design and transparency. These were made of cotton or silk, with white the preferred color, but colored and plaid stocking were also worn. These were made of cotton or silk, with white the preferred color, but colored and plaid stocking were also worn.

Crinoline Stockings
Fig: Stockings

2. Shoes: For daytime square toes, low heels, rosette trimming over the toes in some styles. Evening shoes were often colored to match the gown.

Crinoline Shoes
Fig: Shoes

3. Boots: Boots were cut to above the ankle and closed with lacing, buttons or with elastic sides.

Crinoline Boots
Fig: Boots

G. Accessories:

1. Gloves: Generally gloves were short and fitted for daytime. In the 1860s gloves were long and elbow length, were worn with evening dress.

Crinoline Gloves
Fig: Gloves

2. Cuffs: A cuff is an extra layer of fabric at the lower edge of the sleeve of a garment covering the arms. They were wide cuffs.

crinoline cuff
Fig: Cuff

3. Hand carried accessories: Among the popular hand carried accessories were handkerchiefs, folding fans, small muffs, Mirror, parasol, Miser´s purse, decorative purse, etc.

Crinoline Hand carried accessories
Fig: Hand carried accessories

4. Jewelry: Bracelets, earrings, brooches (safetipin) and necklaces, stones, colored glass etc.

Crinoline Jewelry
Fig: Jewelry

5. Cosmetics: Use of homemade Cosmetics.

Crinoline Cosmetics
Fig: Cosmetics

You may also like:

  1. South Indian Costumes for Men and Women
  2. Different Types of Traditional Dress in India
  3. Different Types of Fashion Categories for Dress Design

Share this Article!

Leave a Comment