Extra Warp Design: Weaving Method, Features and Uses | Difference between Extra Warp and Extra Weft

The role of clothing in human life is immense. These garments are made through various processes such as weaving, knitting, non-weaving, braiding etc. Extra wrap weaving method is one of them. This weaving process also enhances the texture decoration as well as the luster of the fabric. As a result, the garment looks even more attractive to the buyer. In this article I will discuss about extra warp design and differences of extra warp and extra weft.

What is Extra Warp Design?
In addition to the original texture of the yarn, an additional set of warp yarn or weft yarn is used in the fabric, which enhances the texture of the garment. If the extra yarn is used in the fabric as a warp yarn, the design is called an extra wrap design. The color of these extra yarns is usually glossy so that it is clearly visible on the texture of the fabric.

extra warp design
Fig: Extra warp design

Weaving Method of Extra Warp Design:
When ground and figure weave yarns are tied together in a beam, the warp yarn becomes loose during weaving and the fabric becomes unfit for weaving. This is why extra wraps are in separate beams. One of the motifs of the designs that are embossed in the fabric by extra stretched yarn is to first draw on the table paper. Then the repeat size of the design has to be identified based on the number of yarns and spots in each unit length to form an extra wrap design. If the arrangement of the order of ground warp and extra wrap is 1: 1, then the number of warp yarns in the design repeat will be twice the number of warp yarns used in the spot and the number of weft yarns will be equal to the number of weft yarns in the spot. Ground warp and extra warp are to be identified on the table paper. Here the ground participates in brackets with both Pix ground warp and extra warp. Then it forms a plain weave through the ground warp and the ground weft. The point here is to keep the warp yarn floating in the spot as much as it is floating. This is how extra wrap designs are formed.

extra weft
Fig: Extra weft

Features of Extra Warp Design:

  1. The extra yarn that makes up the design in the fabric is used as the warp yarn.
  2. This design consists of two sets of warp yarn. The extra yarn between two sets of yarns is called extra warp and the texture’s yarn is called ground warp.
  3. Separate beams are used for the two sets of yarns and divide drafts are used during weaving.
  4. If two sets of yarn are wrapped in a beam, it is not possible to weave cloth without equal pull between the yarns.
  5. Ground wrap is inserted in the first beam and extra wrap is inserted in the last one.
  6. Ground and extra wrap yarns can be arranged in different order in the fabric.
  7. The texture of this fabric is usually plain weave.

Uses of Extra Warp Design:
This weave is widely used in making various kinds of ornamental fabrics. This design is used for both the edge and the texture of the saree. Thicker fabrics are widely used in making different types of furnishing fabrics and thinner fabrics are also used in making garments. Currently;  Extra warp designs on dhoti, sheets are very common. This design is also seen in diamond and matt border.

Difference between Extra Warp and Extra Weft:

Extra warpExtra weft
It is made by two sets of warp yarn and one set of weft yarn.Made by two set of weft yarn and one set of warp yarn.
Increased loom speed due to the use of warp yarn.Decreased loom speed due to the use of weft yarn.
This weaving process increases the productivity.On the other hand, the productivity of this weaving process decreases.
In this case, there is no limit to the use of colored yarn.It is not possible to use a large number of colored yarns.
The stripe pattern is embellished in the extra warp fabric.The cross over pattern is embellished in the fabric with extra weft.
Two or more warp beams are required.Only one warp beam is required.
The visibility of this yarn in the fabric is comparatively less as the extra warp yarns are less compressed.Extra weft yarns are more compressible due to the visibility of these yarns in the fabric is comparatively higher.
Drafting plans are usually complicated.Drafting plans are usually simple.

Knowledge of the design of a garment is essential to the formation of a garment. A variety of designs are embossed on the texture of the fabric using extra warp designs. The quality of the fabric also depends on the design and influences the user’s choice. Extra wrap design is one of the most important factors in determining the price of a garment.


  1. Structure and Analysis of Fabric by Engineer Shah Alimujjaman
  2. https://creative-threads.co.uk/extra-warp/
  3. https://studylib.net/doc/5276217/extra-warp-weft-extra-warp-or-weft–supplementary
  4. https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/7735/application-of-extra-weft-technique-to-design-kota-doria
  5. https://www.arahne.si/tutorials/traditional-thai-fabric-one-extra-warp/

Author of this Article:
Nazifa Tabassum
B.Sc. in Clothing and Textile
Govt. College of Applied Human Science, Dhaka
Email: nazifa.099@gmail.com

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