Drafting Procedure of Long Sleeve Woven Shirt

Last Updated on 22/12/2020

Drafting and Cutting Process of Woven Long Sleeve Shirt

R.S. Balakumar
Associate Professor,
Dept of Fashion Design & Arts,
Hindustan University, Chennai, India
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com

Introduction:
Long Sleeve Woven Shirt is a common wear or men used to wear as a upper for so coverage. The salient feature of this shirt formal dress used for official purposes. The front opening with the button fastening, left side or chest pocket, long sleeve with the cuffs and linked button is also be made.

Selected fabrics: Poplin, cotton, silk, crepe, polyester, oxford cotton.

Materials required: 2.50 mts cloth width is 36”

Measurement required:

Back length = 32”
N.W length = 17”
Shoulder width = 17”
Chest = 36”
Waist = 32”
Hip or seat = 38”
Sleeve length = 24”
Cuff size = 2 ½” *11”
Pocket size = 5” * 5 ½”

Drafting Procedure of Long Sleeve Woven Shirt:

Drafting of front and back part of Shirt — Fig: Drafting of front and back part

Fig: Drafting of other parts of long sleeve woven shirt

Drafting details front part:

1-2 =full length + 1”.
1-3 = chest/4(-) ½”, arm depth.
1-4 = 1/6th neck measure.
4-4a = 1” as per draft.
4a-4b = ¾” for button stand.
4b-6 =1 ½” for placket.
4b-2b =draw a line as per draft.
6-6a =draw a line as per draft.
1-7 =1/2 shoulder width +1/2” for seam.
7-8 = draw a line.
3-9 = 1/3rd chest measure.
10-4 = 1/6th neck measure.
10 -11 = draw line as per draft.
10-12 = 1” as per draft.
13-7 = shoulders slope 1 ½”.
14-2 = same as 9-3 measure.
14-15 = 4 ½” as standard measure.
14-16 =5 ½” as standard measure.
17-8 =1” as per draft.
18 is a middle measure of 13-8 distance
18-19 =3/4” as per draft.
13,19,17,19 = draw arm hole shape with arm curve.
Cut the front part.

Drafting details of back part:

20-21 = length +1”
22-24 = 1/4th chest (-) ½” (armhole depth).
20-25 = n.w length + ½”.
22-23 = draw a line.
24-24a = 1/3rd chest (-) 1 ¼”.
23-23a = 1 ¼” at 45˚
20-27 = 1” as per draft.
22-28 = 1” as per draft.
26-29 = 4 ½” as shown in draft.
26-30 = 5 ½” as shown in draft.

Shoulder part:

1-2 = 1/8th chest +1/2”.
1-3 = ½ shoulder width +1/2” for seam.
3-4 = draw a line.
4-5 =1/2” as per draft.
1-6 = 1/6th neck + ¾”.
6-7 = 2” noted as per draft.
6-8 = 1”as per draft.
3-9 = 2”as per draft.

Long sleeve part:

1-2 = sleeve length +1/2”(-) cuff with 2 ½” .
1-3 = 1/8th chest (-) ½”.
3-4 = 1/4th chest +1/2”.
5-2 =½ cuff + 1 ½”.
5-6 =1/2” as per draft.
7 = middle or 5-2 measure.
7-8 =.4 ½” sleeve pocket open.
9 = ½ or 1-4.
9-10 = 1”,4,10,1 back arm shape is to be drawn
11=middle of 9-4 measure.
12-11 =¾ “ as per draft. 4, 12, 9, 1.draw the front arm as per draft.

Cuff draft:

1-2 = cuff width.
1-3 = cuff length to be cut on fusible interlining as stiffer portion.
Sleeve pocket length 5”.
Width 1 1/4:”.
Box 1 ¼” as ready portion and added all around ½” for seam margin.

Collar part:

1-2 = ½ neck measure
2-4 = 2” as standarad.
2-5 = 3/8” as per draft.
4-6 =3/8” as per draft.
7-5 = collar point 3 1/8”.

Neck band:

8-9 = ½ neck measure
9-10 = 1 3/8” as per draft.
11-8 =1 3/8” as per draft.
10-12 =1 3/8” as per draft.
10-14= 1/8” as per draft.
To be cut fusible interlining allow to cut self fabric along with seam margin necessarily ½”.

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