Drafting of Fashionable Men’s Short Sleeve Shirt

Drafting of Fashionable Men’s Short Sleeve Shirt

R.S. Balakumar
Associate Professor
Dept of Fashion Design & Arts
Hindustan University, Chennai, India
Email: rsbalakumar1953@gmail.com

Introduction:
Fashionable men’s short sleeve shirt is the common wear for both men and women. People feel comfort to wear this dress as their custom.

Short Sleeve or Long Sleeve can be constructed. While making the long sleeve, sleeve placket and cuff portions are to be placed at the both sleeve bottom with necessary interlining-canvas.

Collar, collar-band along with fusible interlining is placed inside the self-fabric to enhance the aesthetic look to the dress. Collar points are made as per customer’s taste and fashion trend. One left side pocket is to be made. Front placket is made with stiffness to be placed. This short sleeve shirt is the summer collection.

Measurements: 

1. Full Length = 27”
2. Shoulder width = 17”
3. Mid chest = 36”
4. Waist = 32”
5. Seat = 38”
6. Neck = 15”
7. Sleeve length = 10”
8. Sleeve open = 15”
9. Natural waist length = 16”

Material Required:
2.00 meter / Fabric Width = 36”/2.25 meter = 30”. 1.80 meter = 42” to 44”.

Pattern Parts:
Front cut 2, Back cut 1 on fold. Yoke cut 2, sleeve cut 2. Collar Top cut 2 on fabric, cut one on canvas collar band cut 2 on fabric, cut one on canvas. Pocket cut 1.

Suitable Fabric:
Poplin, Cambric, Terene, Polyester, Silk, Cots wool, Linen etc., preferably cotton, polyester, linen, khaddar-cotton, kanchi pure silk, mysore silk, raw cotton-silk, cambric, poplin, fabrics are predominantly used.

Drafting details of men’s short sleeve shirt (Front Part):

1 – 2 = Full length + ½”. [27 ½”]

2 – 3 = Bottom hem 1 ½”. [1 ½”]

4 – 1 = Arm Depth is chest /4 less ½”. [8 ½”]

1 – 5 = Natural Waist length 16 + ½” = 16 ½” .

1 – 6 = 1/6th Neck = (2 ½”)

1 – 7 = ½ shoulder width + ½” = 9”

7 – 8 = Draw a line.

9 – 4 = Chest /4 + 2” = (11”)

10 – 6 = 1/6th Neck = (2 ½”)

11 – 10 = Draw a line.

12 – 7 = Shoulder’s slope 1 ½”.

10 – 13 = 1” at 45. As per draft.

9 – 14 – 15 = Side vertical line.

14 – 16 = ¾” waist shape.

15 – 17 = 1 ¼” outer point. Draw 9, 16, 17 as per draft.

18 – 8 = ¾” as per draft

19 is mid of 7to 8 measure.

19 – 20 = ½” inward position draw the arm hale curve as per draft.

6 – 2A = ¾” Button standing line

2A – 3A = Placket width 1 ½” join up to 3 C as per draft.

This placket is a self fold or plain placket, if it is required to construct the French placket instead of 1 ½”, take 2 ¼” wider from 2A to 3A distance.

Drafting procedure of men’s short sleeve shirt (Back Part):

21 – 22 = Full Length + ½”.[27 ½”]

22 – 23 = Bottom hem 1 ½”.

24 – 21 = ½ shoulder width + ½”= 9”.

24 – 25 = Draw a line as per draft.

26 – 21 = Chest /4(-) ½”.[8 ½”]

27 – 26 = ¼th Chest + 2” = 11”.

28 – 21 = N. W length 16 + ½” = 16 ½”.

29 – 21 = 1” is noted, connect No. 30, as per draft.

31 – 32 = 1” is noted.

33 – 32 = 1” is noted, join 27, 32, 34, as side shape.

Sleeve Part:

1 – 2 = Sleeve length + ½”.

2 – 3 = Sleeve term 1 ½”.

4 – 1 = 1/8th chest (-) ½”.

4 – 5 = 1/4th chest (+) ¾”.

6 – 2 = ½ sleeve open + ½”.

7 – 6 – 5 = under arm portion.

7 – 8 = 5/8” is noted.

9 is the mid of 1 to 5 measure.

9 – 10 = 1” is noted.

5, 10, 1 = Sleeve back portion shape is to be drawn.

11 is the mid of 5 to 9 measure.

11 – 12 = ¾” is to be noted.

5, 12, 9, 1 is the front sleeve shape is to be drawn as per draft.

Collar Part (To be cut on canvas):

1 – 2 = ½ Neck girth.

1 – 4 = Collar stand width 1 ¾”.

2 – 3 = 1 ¾” is noted.

2 – 5 = 3/8” is noted, as per draft.

6 – 3 = 3/8” is noted.

7 – 5 = Collar point 2 ¾” is to be noted and drawn.

Collar – band:

8 – 9 = 1 3/8” is noted.

8 – 10 = ½ Neck girth measure.

10 – 11 = 1 3/8” as per draft.

11 – 12 = 1 3/8” as per draft.

10 – 13 = 1 3/8” as per draft.

11 – 14 = ¼” as band – bottom shape.

While using the canvas or fusible interlining to be firmly kept, and allow seam allowance ½” is the collar, collar band portion is necessary.

Pocket: Size 4 ¾” x 5 ¼”

Pocket mouth 1 ¼”. Seam allowance ½” is to be required.

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Mazharul Islam Kiron

Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. Mr. Kiron is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.

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